Truckers, lets see your rigs!

jfaulkner said:
The 75 seems to be a good turbo for the Detroit. Not sure why you were having heat issues unless your gearing is wrong and your lugging it. Your referring to the 75/96 Borg with 1.32? I don't do a lot with Detroits but they seem to preform the same as the other smaller motors with that charger like the C12. I've just noticed some guys like to drive their 750hp+ trucks like a 450 and keep RPM low for fuel mileage. Then they wonder why they don't survive.
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I run the 75 on 2 of my trucks. The newer one that originally had wastegate turbo lost a touch of spool up. It now comes to life around 1300 but that's fine as it's driving at higher rpm. The older one it replaced it actuallly lites quicker.


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jfaulkner said:
The 75 seems to be a good turbo for the Detroit. Not sure why you were having heat issues unless your gearing is wrong and your lugging it. Your referring to the 75/96 Borg with 1.32? I don't do a lot with Detroits but they seem to preform the same as the other smaller motors with that charger like the C12. I've just noticed some guys like to drive their 750hp+ trucks like a 450 and keep RPM low for fuel mileage. Then they wonder why they don't survive.
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This was my first though, but rpm is bad remember and dropping a gear is for p*ssies.
 
Ram12vcummins said:
Where you located Allan? In from Lundar.....

Just had my 94 w9 tuned by Erich at serious series 60 with fresh inframe. Having issues with smoke on startup can't seem to find the problem. But pulls good. No real mileage results yet. 4292 cam and 7915 injectors I put instead of stock


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I'm from winnipeg I may be able to help with that. Does it smoke while gaining rpms or does it do that after hitting 900 rpms cold?

Also you can try starting it let it warm up. Then shut it off but immediately turn it back to on after the engine has stopped. Let it cool right off. Maybe even over night put a charger on it. If it starts up fine in the morning it's cam timing.
 
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jfaulkner said:
The 75 seems to be a good turbo for the Detroit. Not sure why you were having heat issues unless your gearing is wrong and your lugging it. Your referring to the 75/96 Borg with 1.32? I don't do a lot with Detroits but they seem to preform the same as the other smaller motors with that charger like the C12. I've just noticed some guys like to drive their 750hp+ trucks like a 450 and keep RPM low for fuel mileage. Then they wonder why they don't survive.
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I have converted to weed burner and that has helped. I have to wait until the middle of summer to know for sure but it runs *really* good. I've found d I like the smaller turbo.

Detroits like 1500 to 1600 rpms for bsfc stock and near stock. No idea what happens after they're modified and it would cost a lot of money to find out!

I remember it was really flat ground with a wicked side wind and my load was catching a lot of it. It was around 95 degrees and for the same fuel the boost keep going down down and the egts up and up. It was like the turbo was heat soaking. Didn't matter what rpm I ran. I should checked air intake temps but I bet they were sky high. I'm thinking between the high heat and load, plus I had only one kw stack at the time all contributed plus the larger turbo.
 
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You think a single stack is enough to cause heat to rise?

Guess I should take the single stack off our tuned MBN C-15 and put duals on it...it's ran cooler since it was tuned, and I am going to bet there's not many S60's that will run with it...

Chris
 
My un-educated opinion is your lugging it, bet that 75 would have been super happy if you'd dropped a gear or two in you example above. Now I don't have any semi experience, but it sure seems that it's easier on an engine to spin it up a little, than make it lug around.

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Signature600 said:
You think a single stack is enough to cause heat to rise?

Guess I should take the single stack off our tuned MBN C-15 and put duals on it...it's ran cooler since it was tuned, and I am going to bet there's not many S60's that will run with it...

Chris
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Well not exactly.....

I had one side of the t pipe blocked that does not help. A small kink in the elbow doesn't help. A 180 degree change from in to out of the muffler doesn't help. All the extra bends doesn't help either.

Now it goes from where the old muffler inlet was, straight back through a walker mega flow.
 
J-Pipes said:
My un-educated opinion is your lugging it, bet that 75 would have been super happy if you'd dropped a gear or two in you example above. Now I don't have any semi experience, but it sure seems that it's easier on an engine to spin it up a little, than make it lug around.

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I understand your point but as you go larger with the turbo cold side you shift the cruise/best bsfc rpm further a d further left on the compressor map. Combine that with environment factors and maybe it's not always a good idea to run a bigger one?

Also look at it this way, I could get away with an even smaller cold side probably 60% of the time. A lot of the time in winter this one is moving too much air.
 
allan5oh said:
I understand your point but as you go larger with the turbo cold side you shift the cruise/best bsfc rpm further a d further left on the compressor map. Combine that with environment factors and maybe it's not always a good idea to run a bigger one?

Also look at it this way, I could get away with an even smaller cold side probably 60% of the time. A lot of the time in winter this one is moving too much air.
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Explain to me how it can move TOO much air in a diesel engine?

Chris
 
allan5oh said:
I understand your point but as you go larger with the turbo cold side you shift the cruise/best bsfc rpm further a d further left on the compressor map. Combine that with environment factors and maybe it's not always a good idea to run a bigger one?

Also look at it this way, I could get away with an even smaller cold side probably 60% of the time. A lot of the time in winter this one is moving too much air.
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I'm not saying bigger is better, I just switched to a smaller turbo on my pickup, spools a lot better, but still not enough on top, plan to fix that with a second turbo eventually. But, when you run a bigger turbo, and possibly bigger cam, since you said which one, guessing it's not stock, they are both likely to raise your rpms for power. You also stated that stock trucks like a certain rpm range, well yours isn't stock, so you probably need to wind it up. I still did quite a bit of heavyish towing with the oversized turbo, just had to keep it wound pretty tight.

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J-Pipes said:
I'm not saying bigger is better, I just switched to a smaller turbo on my pickup, spools a lot better, but still not enough on top, plan to fix that with a second turbo eventually. But, when you run a bigger turbo, and possibly bigger cam, since you said which one, guessing it's not stock, they are both likely to raise your rpms for power. You also stated that stock trucks like a certain rpm range, well yours isn't stock, so you probably need to wind it up. I still did quite a bit of heavyish towing with the oversized turbo, just had to keep it wound pretty tight.

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One important question is did you downsize to a turbo that is smaller than stock?
 
zfaylor said:
One important question is did you downsize to a turbo that is smaller than stock?
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No, hx35 to a 64mm s300, to he351, just a little bigger than stock! Thinking something in the 70-75mm range in addition eventually.

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Signature600 said:
Explain to me how it can move TOO much air in a diesel engine?

Chris
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It's like a fuel oil furnace. For best thermal efficiency/ bsfc you want to run just leaner than the smoke point. Say the smoke point is 16:1, what's the point in running leaner than 20:1 or so? With our non variable turbos we end up pushing air that isn't needed until we start to get than the limit of the turbo, that's why egts go up as we add fuel. That's also why acerts are hard on fuel.


There's a few guys running around with Detroits and well tuned variable turbos. Two guys I know are in the 9 mpg range.

In winter I could easily get away with a 67mm fmw cold side.
 
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J-Pipes said:
I'm not saying bigger is better, I just switched to a smaller turbo on my pickup, spools a lot better, but still not enough on top, plan to fix that with a second turbo eventually. But, when you run a bigger turbo, and possibly bigger cam, since you said which one, guessing it's not stock, they are both likely to raise your rpms for power. You also stated that stock trucks like a certain rpm range, well yours isn't stock, so you probably need to wind it up. I still did quite a bit of heavyish towing with the oversized turbo, just had to keep it wound pretty tight.

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Mines pretty close to stock, just a bit of tuning a manifold and a turbo. It does have a later 500 hp injector/cam combo though.

Edit: the only thing special about my truck is the nut behind the wheel. He's got a few screws loose and luckily the correct ones.
 
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allan5oh said:
It's like a fuel oil furnace. For best thermal efficiency/ bsfc you want to run just leaner than the smoke point. Say the smoke point is 16:1, what's the point in running leaner than 20:1 or so? With our non variable turbos we end up pushing air that isn't needed until we start to get than the limit of the turbo, that's why egts go up as we add fuel. That's also why acerts are hard on fuel.


There's a few guys running around with Detroits and well tuned variable turbos. Two guys I know are in the 9 mpg range.
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Do you run one of these?

Link....

Anyone that worried about BSFC in a working class 8 truck, must have read the articles on those.


While technically you are right, there are way more important factors in fuel economy than BSFC...You bring your S60 out here and haul what we haul, your mileage WILL suffer...

Chris
 
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