Ultimate 40 spline dana 80
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1pieceatatime.
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Nice ARB carnage ^.
I've come to realize everything CAN break! 40 spline spool is probably my best bet but I'm going to try this broached,welded open carrier with preheat and slow cool post heat welded with a 7018 stick rod. By the way I am a welder/fitter by trade so weld processes are not a big deal and I have all the necessary tools. I'm going to try and put in a order to get the tube bolted flange rings cut this week so I can get this thing mocked up and final measure for inner shafts and determined wms width.
I've started plate/gusseting the knuckles for extra strength.
I warmed then up hot in a BBQ then welded it with ni55 cast iron rod
I wanted the gussets done with cast rod then the rest I'll burn in with wire feed. Guys have good luck with wire as I've found and the cast rods were about $60 for 20 of them. They knuckles will end up like this with 1/4" plate between gussets though.
My gut is telling me you should Mig or 4099 the carrier. But I'll be damned if I can remember why :doh:
prostockpuller
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I don't think anyone in the pulling world has ever broke a king pin dana 60 front axel at the knuckle like you did. How high were you jumping the truck when it broke?
Tire might of been in air when it broke and grabbed instant traction but steering forces would of added to that as well. Hydro assist steering puts a good amount of push when u need to turn a 44" bogger. Full hydro will be even more.
My buddies gf next to truck when it broke on ledge
Here's a perfect example now with an axle with removeable outter ends I could of simply unbolted entire assembly, taken it to a tailgate or bench and fixed the break, then back to trail and reinstall. Instead I had to winch it up another 10-15' and fix on a hill still.
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Found a video of it too when it snapped. Hardly does it justice but it was steep. I'm a :38 sec mark
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=meVcbJNzuyo
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=meVcbJNzuyo
ibestroken
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That's a good looking axle!
1pieceatatime.
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Used a mag base drill with an anular cutter to make holes in 3/4" plate for the beginning of new custom straps today.
Why not just mill the diff yoke for the $8 U-bolts you can buy? Waaay less work.
You are going to have trouble getting the proper size with a drilled hole. I built a set for the yoke on my 11.5 and had trouble getting it right starting with a bored hole.
Yoke u bolts would be better. Where can I get a 1480 u bolt kit? Will the strap holes line up with u bolts when if I drilled?
These straps I drilled a 1-5/16 hole. It turned out 1/32 bigger than that but still a 1/32 smaller than 1-3/8"(1.375) so I was going to fine tune the rest with a die grinder stone checking with a u joint cap as I went. That was my plan anyway.
These straps I drilled a 1-5/16 hole. It turned out 1/32 bigger than that but still a 1/32 smaller than 1-3/8"(1.375) so I was going to fine tune the rest with a die grinder stone checking with a u joint cap as I went. That was my plan anyway.
1pieceatatime.
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No, its gotta be done with an end mill. You could probably clamp it down in a drill press and get it done using an end mill in a drill press, but just do them on a bridgeport. 1480 U-bolt kits are like $15 bucks. shipping would probably be around $10. I have them in stock if you can't find one local. Spicer part# 3-94-28x
1pieceatatime.
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Really? Have fun hand fitting those.My straps are sounding good
Like I said. Been there done that with a bored hole and it was still a cock. You are starting with a hole that is probably egg shaped .005"-.010". Ultimately you are going to end up with a clamp that is to tight or to loose.
But hey, its not like its a high stress application.
bigstacks95
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Al knows his stuff, and is probably right, but I'd just buy a set of billet straps for 100 bucks.
http://puredieselpower.com/dodge-products/billet-1480-u-joint-strap-for-dana-80-axles.html
http://puredieselpower.com/dodge-products/billet-1480-u-joint-strap-for-dana-80-axles.html
jones95runner
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Made my own last year. Stupid simple to do, drilled with a 1 3/8 drill bit then milled them down to a snug fit. My straps contact the cap 100% where the oem strap and the u bolts both leave some untouched. But u was looking for more of a "girdle" for the yoke than i was for a strap. They worked awesome. We had problems with the yokes rolling one ear off them. These solved that problem. Then we blew the yoke in half around the splines so went to a billet yoke the last time. I had a idea to fix that too but the billet yoke was just easier.
prostockpuller
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True....But as a machinist he can make them for under $25. Also, If he drills/mills 2 thru holes offset 1/8"-3/16" thru (for the u-joint cap Dia.), he could get 2 straps from the same block.....just saw it in half and face off to half the dia. depth.
1pieceatatime.
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I doubt I'd be happy with the fit of those haisley straps either. Even if those Allen Bolts are something special like ARP, you are still talking 3/8 bolts VS a 7/16 on the U-bolt.
If he was a machinist he wouldn't be trying to build a precision part with a hole that was finished with a drill...... Stock straps may be a stamped part, but there is a little bit of engineering there that nets the right clamping force on the U-joint. To tight, and you'll end up with brinelling, to loose the cap will start chewing the yoke up. Probably not something you'll ever have issues with in a pulling truck, but not exactly good for longevity one something that will see any kind of miles.
Maybe I'm being fussy, but like I said I've been down this road with something of my own. If the 11.5 yoke was not completely incompatible with milling for U-bolts, I would have milled it for U-bolts.
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Made my own last year. Stupid simple to do, drilled with a 1 3/8 drill bit then milled them down to a snug fit. My straps contact the cap 100% where the oem strap and the u bolts both leave some untouched. But u was looking for more of a "girdle" for the yoke than i was for a strap. They worked awesome. We had problems with the yokes rolling one ear off them. These solved that problem. Then we blew the yoke in half around the splines so went to a billet yoke the last time. I had a idea to fix that too but the billet yoke was just easier.
I had this same idea to drill and counter sink(counter bore?) leaving it as caps. What did u use to counter sink a flat bottom for Allen key style bolt head to sit flat?