VE Tech

Maintaining correct indexing, you'll get it cranked up about as much as you can when the idle screw becomes flush (backed out entirely) with the threaded boss and idle is normal 750rpm (auto) or 800rpm (man) with the a/c on.
 
That's exactly what I did oldestof11, it was set at 11 and 5 and it would instantly run away with any added throttle. And the idle screw was backed all the way out.

Do you think it could be acting so differently because it's on a different engine?
 
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I've found that the different fulcum levers in the pumps make them adjust completely different. Some reach runaway far before the fuel screw puts the idle where you want it, and unless you want it to run high rpm, re-indexing the throttle does nothing. Adjust the fuel screw until it starts to decelerate slower when you let off the throttle, then adjust the rpm to where you want it. One of these days I'm going to dyno a engine and switch fulcrum levers and see what changes. Generally the Dodge truck fulcrum levers seem to make for a much happier pump.
 
oldestof11 said:
Try turning the fuel screw in 1 turn. Does it still do it?
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Yes I tried that and it only made it worse. the only remedy was to back out the fuel screw.

9424vf350, this pump is off an industrial 4bt. (Maybe a skidloader or generator, idk) maybe if I can get my hands on a dodge fulcrum lever i could swap them and see if that changes anything
 
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mfsuper90 said:
Yes I tried that and it only made it worse. the only remedy was to back out the fuel screw.

9424vf350, this pump is off an industrial 4bt. (Maybe a skidloader or generator, idk) maybe if I can get my hands on a dodge fulcrum lever i could swap them and see if that changes anything
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I meant out. Doh!
 
Is there any problem with increasing return fuel line size? I have a bunch of an6 line and my fuel cooler return side is an6, I'd like to just go from the back of the head factory pipes and get a fitting to increase to -6 and run it back to the tank.
 
Line size itself won't effect anything. Just don't change the orifice in the banjo fitting at the pump. That would decrease your case pressure. Timing advance would be affected as well.
 
Hi all I have purchased a rocken tech 14mm h/r for my bmw but having read this page some people have not got a great opinion of the company are they that bad? Thanks
 
From what I've heard, their tolerances are very sloppy which is what typically leads to the failures. However, their longevity and reliability seems to be hit or miss.
 
Here is a list of suggestions direct from rocken tech

Here are some accommodations for the use of 14mm head: To run an electric pump with*a high pressure seal and seal retainer, to keep the fuel flowing through there so that you can maintain it cool. You may also need a big set of injectors, such as with 6 x .016" (0.4mm) nozzles, and a big turbo charger or turbo chargers as well as fuel line upgrades (esp. using .120" / 3mm I.D. x .315" / 8mm OD lines). It is also recommended to use a high rpm spring (we currently not provide) and solid rollers.

*

You would have enough flow in your pump if you replace your stock rotor head with a 14mm version. However with the combination of 4mm camplate (also available) and a 14mm head you’d be working on extra accommodations to mitigate the extreme fuel flow due to the higher lift. Works could include handling higher rpm and timing and other issues including checking plunger and any other mechanical clearance, etc.

Also I will note that they suggest a minimum 40psi of feed pressure

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Whitey, some guys got their rocken tech H&'s to live. I like your style, but I'm going to have to tell you 6,000 RPM and a VE, especially a 14mm VE isn't a good combination.
 
smokinVE said:
Whitey, some guys got their rocken tech H&'s to live. I like your style, but I'm going to have to tell you 6,000 RPM and a VE, especially a 14mm VE isn't a good combination.
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Especially with a 4mm camplate in addition.
 
I won't be using the 4mm camplate it will be more like 2mm which is the standard plate from the bmw m21D mechanical pump. Nice and easy to turn I would think. I'm considering vane pump mods too like increasing the volume of course and a retainer for the shaft seal. I think high rpm should be possible as long as you can keep it fueled and cooled. Heard about using a power steering pump as a supply pump perhaps straight into the shutoff solenoid.
 
Was it Jayers that was dual feeding a rockentech and getting it to last?

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The non return valve would prevent pressure leaving through the timing port. Really it's just to fill the chamber quicker whilst the plunger retracts away so in effect there would not be much pressure to overcome.
 
Whitey_VE_pump said:
The non return valve would prevent pressure leaving through the timing port. Really it's just to fill the chamber quicker whilst the plunger retracts away so in effect there would not be much pressure to overcome.
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IMHO you're gonna be better off feeding through the FSS. I'd set it up to only pump when supplemental case pressure was needed.

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