Who runs a blow proof can setup

DISTURBED

DISTURBED

YEA WE RIDE THE SHORT BUS
Joined
Nov 22, 2007
Messages
6,417
Ok. Long story short. I bought a 4 disc clutch and blow proof can setup and its insanely hard to push the pedal. What master /slave setup do you have? Mine is a wilwood 7/8 bore master and a Coleman slave cylinder with #3 line all spec'ed by Proformance Pros. It's so hard I broke the rod from the pedal to the master. There doesn't seem to be any binding as I can move the clutch arm by hand with the play in the throw out bearing and I can work the pedal by hand with the slave unhooked from the clutch arm. It seems like it is 1:1. I move the pedal 1/2 and the slave moves that much. Master is in the stock location as a oem as well as the pedal. So what am I missing? I'm at a loss here
 
Jeremy,

I run a quick time bell I bought from summit for around $600. I modified the dodge clutch fork to allow for 3 discs and also added a spacer between the bell and the Cummins bell adapter to allow for extra clutch discs (.625 thick). This allows for 3 and possibly 4 discs.
I made a fully adjustable manual clutch linkage setup to avoid problems like you are having. I bought an adjustable heim joint and fabricated a fully mechanical pedal setup similar to what was used in Ford trucks in the late 1970's. It works great and I never have to worry about a slave cylinder failing.
I will try to get some pics posted later.

Hope this helps,

RK
 
Last edited:
Does bell use a cross shaft? Reason I ask is I just went through this on a Alcohol mod truck, bolt that holds fork on was binding on bolt that holds liner in. Only when under pressure. Ground a little off each to free it up but triple disc clutch is still a bear to push in,can actually see rear engine plate flex a little.
 
bittles313 said:
Does bell use a cross shaft? Reason I ask is I just went through this on a Alcohol mod truck, bolt that holds fork on was binding on bolt that holds liner in. Only when under pressure. Ground a little off each to free it up but triple disc clutch is still a bear to push in,can actually see rear engine plate flex a little.
Click to expand...

It's a Lakewood bell and it does have the cross shaft. I will try and see through the inspection hole if it is hitting any of the bolts. This came out of a mod diesel truck and the whole setup came together. Except the hydraulics. They said the setup drove pretty easy but I get it with new hydro's and its so stiff I can barely work the pedal. That's why I'm kinda lost. It is drive able and if need be I will get use to it but if I can find away to lighten the pedal I want to.
 
Is the pedal 6:1 or 7:1? I have floor mounted Coleman pedal with Coleman master cylinder and slave. Pedal is 6:1 and is a load to push. I was thinking going to a 7:1 pedal. In fact last night I had to ride clutch out a bit and broke bolt that connects slave to cross shaft arm.
 
bittles313 said:
Is the pedal 6:1 or 7:1? I have floor mounted Coleman pedal with Coleman master cylinder and slave. Pedal is 6:1 and is a load to push. I was thinking going to a 7:1 pedal. In fact last night I had to ride clutch out a bit and broke bolt that connects slave to cross shaft arm.
Click to expand...

Not sure. It's a stock dodge pedal. From the pivot pin down to where the master attaches to the pedal is 3.5" and from the where the master attaches to the pedal to where my foot sets is 13".
 
I'm not sure what ratio the stock pedal is. I know my triple disc is very hard to push so I could imagine 4 is harder. Another thing to check is to make sure all air is bled out of slave I had to bleed and rebleed several times. Also check to make sure slave has freeplay and you aren't fighting against itself
 
I am not a truck puller by no means, but why don't y'all run a centrifugal weighted clutch? Easy I push the pedal down and they hold power like no other. I just know that's what most everyone runs in the tractor world
 
ive got a browell bellhousing, wilwood slave and master/pedal, and a molinari 4 disk clutch.

first time we set up the truck it pushed so hard i was blowing the seal on the slave cylinders... i was pretty frustrated.

then a fellow puller came over and showed me that my slave was not pulling straight on the lever for the throw out bearing fork. so when i'd push on the pedal it would make the angle worse and bind the slave cylinder. we ended up drilling a new hole through the edge of my bellhousing and midplate for the slave to pull against. problem solved.
 
We also run browell bellhousing, Cower 4 disk and wilwood master and pull type slave to a stock dodge pedal. Had the same problem as you are the first year. Pushed very very hard. We went to a 1 inch bore master and it made a huge difference,
 
duramaxsandwich said:
ive got a browell bellhousing, wilwood slave and master/pedal, and a molinari 4 disk clutch.

first time we set up the truck it pushed so hard i was blowing the seal on the slave cylinders... i was pretty frustrated.

then a fellow puller came over and showed me that my slave was not pulling straight on the lever for the throw out bearing fork. so when i'd push on the pedal it would make the angle worse and bind the slave cylinder. we ended up drilling a new hole through the edge of my bellhousing and midplate for the slave to pull against. problem solved.
Click to expand...

Mine is at a angle upwards from what the throw out bearing travels. I thought that this could be the cause so I made a new bracket and moved it down almost flat and it seemed to get harder to push. So it should pull the same plain as the throw out bearing? I did notice a couple times the slave wasn't returning all the way back out and had to open the bleeder screw al fluid poured out till it went back out then stopped and tightened the bleeder back up



largeride said:
We also run browell bellhousing, Cower 4 disk and wilwood master and pull type slave to a stock dodge pedal. Had the same problem as you are the first year. Pushed very very hard. We went to a 1 inch bore master and it made a huge difference,
Click to expand...

I will see about getting one when I speak to Randy
 
Here is how its mounted. I dropped it down so it was straight with the throw out and it seemed worse
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20150815_115823341.jpg
    IMG_20150815_115823341.jpg
    52.3 KB · Views: 0
  • IMG_20150815_115848548.jpg
    IMG_20150815_115848548.jpg
    30 KB · Views: 0
DISTURBED said:
Mine is at a angle upwards from what the throw out bearing travels. I thought that this could be the cause so I made a new bracket and moved it down almost flat and it seemed to get harder to push. So it should pull the same plain as the throw out bearing? I did notice a couple times the slave wasn't returning all the way back out and had to open the bleeder screw al fluid poured out till it went back out then stopped and tightened the bleeder back up





I will see about getting one when I speak to Randy
Click to expand...

yeah it needs to pull parallel to the candle stick. should basically move the lever from 2 to 10 oclock if that makes sense. also i put a 12 valve cummins in a 95 chevy truck and the master was a 3/4 and the slave was 7/8? and i had problems there too with it not working right hard to push and not disengaging the clutch so that may be the issue also.
 
I'm running the an 4 line to mine and have the slave running parallel with candlestick, I may have to look into the 1in bore master as well
 
bittles313 said:
I'm running the an 4 line to mine and have the slave running parallel with candlestick, I may have to look into the 1in bore master as well
Click to expand...

yes from what i remember after having problems with that chummins the displacement of the master has to match the slave for it to work correctly.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top