Young gun's 94 build thread

Installed factory bypass block (usually used for heaters on buses)

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1418109373.865002.jpg

Painted

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1418109521.050527.jpg

And that's about as far as I got. I ran into some issues with the valve reliefs, Intake valve won't sit into the pocket, you can see in this picture the stem of the exaugst sitting lower than the intake.

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1418109602.113476.jpg

Put some assembly lube on the valves and compressed the springs so I could feel what the valve was doing, exaghst valve sinks in while the intake just barely hits the edge of the relief.

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1418109690.806912.jpg

Another picture showing the same thing, just printed on the head with no head gasket. As you can see, exaugst fits into the pocket well, intake hits just barely.

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1418109939.777056.jpg


As of now I have the pistons all removed to be fixed. Frustrating is an understatement.

In other news I CC'd the bowls and reliefs and they came out at 50.5cc for whoever is wondering. I used a syringe and filled the bowl and relief with water and recorded how many CC's it took. Pretty simple stuff.
 
I also want to put this up for discussion, my piston protrusion is measured at .027, I'm being told that's about .010 too much. I've found where cummins spec is .024-.028, what do you guys think? I really don't want to cut the Pistons MORE and loose even more compression.
 
What's the piston to head spec from cummins? I would say that would tell you if the Pistons need to come down some. I believe a stock gasket crushes somewhere around .050"? Can't remember exactly.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
If it is standard bore it would currently be right at 16:1 with the information listed.


Cool, I was playing with a calculator online and couldn't get my compression numbers right, I had to assume an 8cc (I think) combustion chamber to get 16:1 flat. Gasket is .065, I think the motor will be fine as far as protrusion. Lots of second guessing since finding out the reliefs weren't going to work quite right.

So if we assume the gasket crushes out to .050 the. Subtract .027 to get piston to head clearance? Correct? That would leave .023 thou. Does that sound about right? I am still searching for a piston to head spec.
 
I tend to err on the side of caution and go low side of the compression scale, this gives room for piston protrusion variance. I would estimate your piston to head ~ 0.028", if you plan to turn it much RPM I would get that value closer to 0.040", remember decking the piston will slightly decrease bowl volume.
 
I tend to err on the side of caution and go low side of the compression scale, this gives room for piston protrusion variance. I would estimate your piston to head ~ 0.028", if you plan to turn it much RPM I would get that value closer to 0.040", remember decking the piston will slightly decrease bowl volume.


What kind of rpm would justify cutting them down? Motor may see 5k on occasion, I'll be putting a set of compounds on that will keep me under 4500rpm in the future.
 
Watching ^^^ my motor build is close to starting. So looks like everyone goes with .050 for stock gasket? Many threads said that but no evidence.
 
I tend to err on the side of caution and go low side of the compression scale, this gives room for piston protrusion variance. I would estimate your piston to head ~ 0.028", if you plan to turn it much RPM I would get that value closer to 0.040", remember decking the piston will slightly decrease bowl volume.

Hense the reason I suggested to mill the top of the piston .005-.010 to get the piston to valve to about that .038 range. But will take a loss on bowl volume and compression. Which is why I went with a custom ground cam with a little wider LSA to help compensate the clearance without taking a hit on compression.
 
finally got on a computer and realized my pics are all tiny.... lol

Pistons have been modified, and hopefully they fit this time!!!! really eager to get this truck on the road. bough some .140 3/8 push rods from Taylor (TMONEY) last week, dang good deal if you ask me! Really the only parts I am lacking now that more of wants than need's are a billet timing gear cover, billet tappet cover, and an adjustable pump gear. Those will have to come later though.
 
Finally getting somewhere

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1419316094.804490.jpg

Welded the injector return down, I think it looks much better this way, it's removable separate from the lifting eye.

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1419316181.894909.jpg

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1419316199.663856.jpg
 
5x.020's built by Will Terry

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1419387699.853126.jpg

Pushrods from Taylor!

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1419387783.713582.jpg

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1419387800.965784.jpg

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1419387830.003039.jpg

About ready to go in, timing set at 18* temporarily, studs torqued, valves set to .010 and .020 for now, will tighten them to my favorite setting of .008 and .018 after re-torques.
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1419388018.612803.jpg

Took a break from sand blasting and painting
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1419387877.061841.jpg
 
Back
Top