99 FL60 mutt/conversion/repower project build

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Puts 630 miles down Monday, dropped 62g of fuel back into the tanks.. for 10.1 mpg with boost leak for better part of 500 miles...
Only come up with too conclusion.. truck so doing better than 10mpg
Or
Boost leak was enough to blead off enough air to keep from choking the turnine wheel up and result in increase in MPG..

New CAC is on... Air compressor elbow is on.. new injector return lines on.. quick bobtail test drive.. boost hits 35# now definetly scoots better.. head to Charlotte NC tonight with a load..
 
zfaylor said:
Boost leaks do not increase flow through the turbine.
Click to expand...

Correct... What I was referring to.. is my opinion that the current turbine where is too small and choking the engine... A boost leak would reduce the air flow through the Engine thus unchoking the turbine wheel allowing the Engine to operate more efficiently.... As a possibility of why I saw almost 2mpg increase over normal MPG...
 
Well the trip to long island from Ohio and back 1300 miles... Mpg is been 9.2-9.5
Sucks when you change a bunch of stuff... You don't know what did what...
New head
New bigger inj
New CAC
Added 5° of timing...
Had pre-boost screw set at 2.5 turns.. backed off 1 turn..
Max boost has gone from 30 to 37
Spool up is just as fast if not faster..
Peak EGTs has gone from 1350 to 1450
Cruise still egts 7-800° boost 15-20 at 70 moh flat ground...
Grade speed is up as well....
...
 
I think it’s the turbo causing mileage issues. I don’t care for the heat myself.


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Well either I cracked something or blew some gaskets.. got some oil leak at the front of the Engine...

The air compressor adapter is clean and it got glued on with rtv adhesive...

So What tools do i need, to pull everything from the block forward off, to reseal it.. mainly the bull/cam gear/harmonic balancer

I'm guessing I'm got to have to drop the oil pan as well looks like the front bolts, bolt into timing gear cover..
 
Shouldn't have to drop the pan, just use some rtv. I've used wooden Dowells in the tappets to pull them up and hold them there to remove the cam if pulling the gear doesn't sound fun to you. The rest is straight forward.
 
95cummins5.9 said:
Shouldn't have to drop the pan, just use some rtv. I've used wooden Dowells in the tappets to pull them up and hold them there to remove the cam if pulling the gear doesn't sound fun to you. The rest is straight forward.
Click to expand...

Cam gear is keyed right? Or should be correct?

Im Going to get good at pulling the hood off... :bang
 
Well warm enough to play outside in the water.. pressure washed everything.. oil leak is coming from around #2 main.. idk about the B series... the 8.3 have a 1/8" NPT boss on each main.. oil is coming from #2 main area... So either plug is leaking or the inboard side of the PS pump to AC pump adapter is cracked...

When I got the Engine the timing cover to AC pump was broke and the rear brace was not bolted on... and the adpater could be collateral damage...
 
malibu795 said:
Well warm enough to play outside in the water.. pressure washed everything.. oil leak is coming from around #2 main.. idk about the B series... the 8.3 have a 1/8" NPT boss on each main.. oil is coming from #2 main area... So either plug is leaking or the inboard side of the PS pump to AC pump adapter is cracked...

When I got the Engine the timing cover to AC pump was broke and the rear brace was not bolted on... and the adpater could be collateral damage...
Click to expand...

I've seen those adapters break a couple times, nothing super common though.

Chris
 
When a service tranny tech hears something he's never heard before and say huh!?! And blank face :doh:

Making a growling/cavitating pump noise on low side only.. more pronounced with weight behind it.. oil is good..
 
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