99 FL60 mutt/conversion/repower project build

My flex-a-lite fan kit came with a thermocouple, that was put into the radiator.

I got one of those that are adjustable as well.. not a whole lot of cable between the thermal coupling and switch for mounting options.. I don't have a nice solid core support to mount too like a regular pickup
 
cant get a working in coolant temp switch, radiator probe version cycles at almost every flutter of the Tsats


maybe isspro can make me a couple
seams derale/moroso cant
 
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cant get a working in coolant temp switch, radiator probe version cycles at almost every flutter of the Tsats





maybe isspro can make me a couple

seams derale/moroso cant



I can’t imagine that being that hard to come up with. Every semi on the road with a mechanical engine had a mechanical temp switch. Most just screwed them into a rear port in the head.
 
We get them from fleet pride all the time. Four seasons, alliance, nasco

Sent from my XT1575 using Tapatalk
 
Got the painless 185/175 to work.. temp sensor is in the port between the alternator and oil cooler.. fan temp switch is under the turbo..
Fan came on at 200° went off at 175°
Seams awfully close to over heating temp.. which afaik is 200°...frieghtliner had a 200° warning switch between 3/4 cylinders..
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Plotting..
2 3 3/8"
11 possibly 13 2 1/16" guages
Plus turns, high beam, parking brake will be 5/16" LED lights
Used 2.5" OC for the little guages bezel OD was 2.25"
4" OC for the big ones.. bezel OD is 3.80"
Now if I had a CNC end mill...
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Got the painless 185/175 to work.. temp sensor is in the port between the alternator and oil cooler.. fan temp switch is under the turbo..
Fan came on at 200° went off at 175°
Seams awfully close to over heating temp.. which afaik is 200°...frieghtliner had a 200° warning switch between 3/4 cylinders..
21248179_10212855885565500_5583413700814696284_o.jpg

200* is overheating?

We run them in combines at 200* and the light comes on at 225*

Chris
 
200* is overheating?

We run them in combines at 200* and the light comes on at 225*

Chris

Im just going off what the temp switch stated..
The dash guage goes red around 250° so that's conflicting information..
Alot of Marine application paperwork state 200° limit

If you're running those temps in AG equipment.. definetly feel better about mine
 
My new AGCO Engines down't trip the light until 220* for the warning, and won't derate you until 237*

200* on an 8.3 should be fine IMHO. We run them harder, but only at 300hp. You're actually going to be paying attention to it too, so that's a plus.
Chris
 
stock is 275HP on this.. IDK is the afc live with add 150hp or not.. definitely have the air for it with the s362sxe

have noticed the lack of coolant lines coming out of the cylinder head... and the Tstats are below the cylinder head surface...

will be watching engine oil temps as well... 250* seams to be the avg limit
 
Only head problems I ever see on 12v 8.3's is random head gasket failures.

not sure what you mean about the AFC, but on a 12v 5.9 mine used to dyno 270hp with the valet switch off, and 390hp with the Valet on and AFC functional. Injectors would make a difference there.

Chris
 
PDD took a stock 98 12v 5.9 with CAI from 163/360 to 330/960 with AFC live...
if there is ~150HP in AFC/fuel plate mods, that would put me ~425HP at the crank. I'm still on stock injectors, and have not put the 5*.014 in..

lavon said they'd dyno it if it fit in their dyno bay... which it should.

got dash, gauges, PS tank to mount, flush PS system(seams it got water in it just enough to slight turn color) electrical to the rear, trailer electrical, Driveshaft to install.. I'm sure I'm missing stuff
GN plate will more likely be one of the last things I finish up
 
PDD took a stock 98 12v 5.9 with CAI from 163/360 to 330/960 with AFC live...
if there is ~150HP in AFC/fuel plate mods, that would put me ~425HP at the crank. I'm still on stock injectors, and have not put the 5*.014 in..

lavon said they'd dyno it if it fit in their dyno bay... which it should.

got dash, gauges, PS tank to mount, flush PS system(seams it got water in it just enough to slight turn color) electrical to the rear, trailer electrical, Driveshaft to install.. I'm sure I'm missing stuff
GN plate will more likely be one of the last things I finish up

If you tear into the AFC and modify the foot and washers for more travel and play with the plate I'm sure there is a ton in there. I always ground the plate and AFC foot to a curved ramp profile and played with positioning from there...Never played with AFC Live since it came out after I sold the 12v's, but once I got the hang of adjusting an AFC I wouldn't see the need. I like a valet switch for other drivers, but with the AFC set right I never needed it to keep from blacking out the road behind me. All personal preference, and every setup is different.


What I can tell you is I bet that 362 spools FAST with 505 CID pushing it.
Chris
 
Between AFC live and their max travel kit.. should give me plenty of adjustment/tunability. 380.00 to my door, if it help MPG and drivability it will pay it's self back quickly..


I'm hoping it's a response setup without choking it... Especially in the 1600-2000 RPM range.. try and getting the wiring finished up to start putting that dash back together then get gauges put together
 
Course nothing is blatantly square in the back.. really need new rails and crossmembers.... Be nice to have money/time for rails and crossmembers
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Rear lights wired, dash put back together bunch of other little stuff...
23593585_10213448344176595_8680793051292403907_o.jpg

Doing good until last hole... It will work... Fix it later.. dam human. I should know better than do stuff like that with fatigued...
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Some new
some old
Some digital
Some mechanical
some Isspro
some auto meter..
Phantoms blend well with the R14000 Isspro
Got a MUTT dash for sure
23632781_10213460484960107_4779113888453770175_o.jpg
 
Rear lights wired, dash put back together bunch of other little stuff...
23593585_10213448344176595_8680793051292403907_o.jpg

Doing good until last hole... It will work... Fix it later.. dam human. I should know better than do stuff like that with fatigued...
23631944_10213450047579179_9056731745474222002_o.jpg

Which one did you screw up on? Cause those two small holes in the center that aren't on the same plane would annoy me. Ha ha Little OCD.
 
Which one did you screw up on? Cause those two small holes in the center that aren't on the same plane would annoy me. Ha ha Little OCD.

Originally it was supposed to be 5 across the bottom..
There's two 3/8" holes flanking the the center guage are lower panel mounts, those forced the me to move the flanking guages up.. the idea was 1.5" down from horizontal center... Forming a "V" out of the center 3.. leaving me room to put couple warning lights in the dead center..

The one on the left is good the one on the right is messed up being too low.

1.25 would split the center/lower veritcal guages, but risk hitting the 3 3/8" guages....

A member over on DD offered to cut a panel out for me..
Seams he has access to CAD and CNC plasma

Gave him the measurements.. and see what they come up with...

I can suck it up for now.
 
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