01 qclb won't stop bouncing

hamlin said:
Pulled last weekend and the first pull left the dom bars in with stops that allow for two inches of travel and rear tires at 30 front at 25 bounced like hell right from the launch. Tried to let out and get back in it and same bounce. Second pull aired rear tires to 60 took suspension stops out completely and it has never ran so smooth. So we are going to try a set of Timbrens in place of the stops and see what his truck has to say about that. It seems almost everyone around here runs dom for the bars couple run square. The reason I went with dom was because the thread on here dom seemed to be the most common. The tracks are all pretty tight here his tires are bfg a/t 285s. Thanks for the responses
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Are you hanging front weight???
 
There is one guy running Timbrens in a 95 sclb truck always runs smooth and he usually takes first or second. If the rear mounts were under the u bolts fastened to them or the plate under the axle how would it stop wrap as effectively not being directly attached to the housing? I see what you mean about needing them closer to the outer end of the axle. Not trying to argue just wanting to learn, thanks
 
Haven't made a weight bracket yet his truck weighs 7500 already our classes are 7500 and 8500
 
I run 2 inch dom bars and my truck runs down the track smooth even no hanging weight. I'd guess between the long bars, the mounts being far from the frame and like someone said they are toed in it looks like. I know a good rule of thumb a lot of times is to run your bars pretty close to the angle of your driveshaft. Idk how good it is but mine work great.
 
revolutiondsl said:
I run 2 inch dom bars and my truck runs down the track smooth even no hanging weight. I'd guess between the long bars, the mounts being far from the frame and like someone said they are toed in it looks like. I know a good rule of thumb a lot of times is to run your bars pretty close to the angle of your driveshaft. Idk how good it is but mine work great.
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The bars are parallel with the frame as they are mounted now. Going to cut a foot off them and bring front mount closer to the frame this weekend. I remember reading about matching the angle of driveline also this should bring them close
 
hamlin said:
The bars are parallel with the frame as they are mounted now. Going to cut a foot off them and bring front mount closer to the frame this weekend. I remember reading about matching the angle of driveline also this should bring them close
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I guess I don't understand why you would mount the bars parallel to the frame. That's if I'm understanding you...
 
hamlin said:
There is one guy running Timbrens in a 95 sclb truck always runs smooth and he usually takes first or second. If the rear mounts were under the u bolts fastened to them or the plate under the axle how would it stop wrap as effectively not being directly attached to the housing? I see what you mean about needing them closer to the outer end of the axle. Not trying to argue just wanting to learn, thanks
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If your running a single rear wheel you can mount them on the outside of the u bolts. The only thing is if you run them anything but parallel you have to run a support between them to keep them from "bowing" your frame in. Happened to me and had to put a port-a-power between it to spread it back out again. If your running dual's then you can build them off of the u-bolt plate but you'll have to put a couple stitch welds on the plate to the axle to prevent the wrap of the axle.
 
By parallel I mean if you stood at the back of the truck looking at the frame rails the bars run straight forward with them they are not toed in or out
 
hamlin said:
By parallel I mean if you stood at the back of the truck looking at the frame rails the bars run straight forward with them they are not toed in or out
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Ok that makes much more sense lol
 
Adjust your bumpstops, Blocked solid I would hop, leaving some travel I wouldn't.
 
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