12v build to start soon!

Plans as of now for the next build:

- 12V block. honed, decked, tapped for 14 mm mains
- arp 14 mm mains
- arp 12 mm 625 head studs
- CR pistons flycut (depth depending on cam)
- 1 more 12V rod. shot peened. balanced. polished,…again
- Custom grind cam (something like 208/220 unknown lift and lsa right now)
- new bearings
- Air Dog II 200 GPH
- 5x.025 injectors. vco style. no filters. pintle lift. dual feed. 260 bar. 155 degree spray angle.
- new cummins head gasket
- check the head for problems
- bench pump (again)
- check the crank. then shotpeened, balanced, polished, …again
- no girdle

Couple things I'm debating though, is what turbo to go to. I want to get something along the lines of an S475/87/1.0 T4. I want to make more power, now that I've had a taste. BTW, some of the parts I'm taking out of the motor are salvageable. I am not planning on using some of them in this particular motor, however…..they're for something else I have up my sleeve…..

I DO NOT care about street drivability (I still don't want to try and drive with a 88 or 105 mm turbo though haha), but I want it to be "possible" to drive on the street.

I am not going with a 6.7 block either. Too much money and hassle for minimal gains.

This question is kinda silly too, but I kinda wanted to hear some votes for either Schaffers or Brad Penn lubricants

ANY input is greatly appreciated. I want to have a SOLID bottom end, and one that can help me make more power in conjunction with the other parts (ie: pistons-injectors-pump-turbo)

Thanks for your time fellas
 
I hope to hell, I'm not the next swole haha…..I don't have that kind of bank roll. I'll say this though, I plan on using the block for a new coffee table lol. maybe some led lights inside the motor and a glass top. Would be pretty cool I'd think.
 
well looks like your build will be more and more similar (but better) than mine. whats the advantages to running a cr piston vs. the 286110 ya had?
 
Here are my up dated plans: (The stuff in Bold are the changes so far)

- 12V block. honed, decked, tapped for 14 mm mains and 14 mm head studs. machined for cam bushings
- arp 14 mm mains
- arp 12 mm 625 head studs. Switching to H11 14 mm head studs
- CR pistons flycut (depth depending on cam)
- 1 more 12V rod. shot peened. balanced. polished,…again
- Custom grind cam (something like 208/220 unknown lift and lsa right now)
- new bearings
- Air Dog II 200 GPH. Switched to 400 gph Aeromotive 1000
- 5x.025 injectors. vco style. no filters. pintle lift. dual feed. 260 bar. 155 degree spray angle.
- new cummins head gasket and cummins upper and lower gaskets
- check the head for problems
- bench pump (again)
- check the crank. then shotpeened, balanced, polished, …again
- no girdle. I AM going with Kenny's girdle w/ spacers
- cam bushings, bolt in front and rear freeze plugs
- billet front timing cover
- adjustable pump gear
- electric water pump
- new oil pump
- adding a crankcase breather

Any other suggestions? I am going with fresh Amsoil coolant, donaldson oil filter, and brad penn 15W-40 oil with added zinc.

I feel like I am on the right track, I just need to get her together…..
 
only questions i have are why 14 mm head studs and cam bushings? plan on running a billet cam?
 
the arp 625's are like the white whale or a unicorn, very hard to find. Also, they offer more clamping force with a larger surface area without the brittleness of the 625's. No billet cam. I just think they would help with wear and longevity
 
ditch the electric water pump...they have been proven unreliable time and time again.
 
Zeppelin654 said:
the arp 625's are like the white whale or a unicorn, very hard to find. Also, they offer more clamping force with a larger surface area without the brittleness of the 625's. No billet cam. I just think they would help with wear and longevity
Click to expand...

That's understandable. That's a lot of money for those can bushings. I would look in to that a bit more. Also I understand about the studs. Goodluck with the buikd
 
Might want to search some pros and cons of the 14mm headstuds..

Block cracking was a problem a lot, along with a few other problems.

-Clinton
 
whats the advantages to running a cr piston vs. the 286110 ya had?


Care to elaborate?
 
Clinton: I actually decided to go with the H11 12 mm head studs. I am worried about the block cracking and making it more fragile due to taking another 2 mm out of the block near the coolant jackets.

For Clinton and Jake: The advantages really are simply a bigger bowl and a centered bowl instead of the 210's offset bowl. My old injectors were 145 spray angle and I plan on going with a 155 degree spray angle injector next. I'm just looking to get the most out of this build
 
Differences in the Marine, Non I/C (286210), and the 04.5-07 CR:

Marine:
286050.jpg


Non I/C:
286210.jpg


CR:
325hpCR.jpg
 
Im not sure for just standard pistons. Mine are flycut .125. I AM NOT coating these. I figure that if the tolerance are perfect, there shouldn't be any problems. I'm shooting for a little extra clearance due to spinning higher rpm. Coating is not bad at all, I just figure for the money I don't need to do it this time….I'm going to guess about 150-200 bones for pistons, pins, and rings…? (per piston) maybe
 
You might want top watch the 14mm studs too, I have heard of quite a few people locally having the studs break for no apparent reason.
 
Call Jeff lee at extremestuds.com

Personally save the money and get a quality product.

After my last cam issue I will be putting in bushings in every engine. Definately a good investment.
 
thanks for all the tips guys! keep em comin….especially if I blatantly missed something
 
I love my 14mm studs. No problems yet. From MY personal experiences I would reccomend them. I've heard of others having problems too but I like them.
 
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