6.4 cummins build

The webbed block and Siamese parent bore are stronger than a standard 5.9L block, but the deck has less material, should be rather obvious. In a less forgiving environment than drag racing, this has been rather apparent.
 
Power and reliability in the same sentence?
 
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Blacksdieselhp said:
I dont use other peoples money to build my engines, so ingenuity comes into play a little more that expensive parts. It worked the last three years, lets see if it works the next three. You do it your way and Ill do it mine.
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Has nothing to do with money, i built everything i have on my own dollar, before we had any support.

i dont own a tire repair shop, its a diesel engine building shop!


The fact is that common sence in engine building requiers a thought past present and future...

I just dont want you or a customer to go up in flames cause your igenuity got in the way!

Why chance another issue, you've been told how to fix it! its easy.
 
I would say that if I got 3 seasons and only had to replace a block on a highly competitive drag truck and was able to re use 99% of the hard parts and build a little cheaper than its a win.
 
Smokem thanks for the explaining the question I askin I didn't understand what u where talking about yes I know it possibly can weaken the block but for this block I started with had already been decked down pass the factory setup I purchased the block at a very good deal just to build this engine but I started second guessing myself at getting the compression ratio correct building it myself and having a machine shop that local cutting that much off my block that had not ever messed with a Deisel because there are no diesel performance shops in Alabama besides doghouse 6 hrs away and Ashley was only 3hrs away so that's how this build came together is I was wanting a street truck that's in the 1000hp range and I was goin to build my stock engine that's in the 900hp range but I wanted to try something different
 
I've never had any problems with wade. But you can see why most eveyone else has.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 2
 
Blacksdieselhp said:
And what vehicles in the "Pro" catagories are running your engines? Names please.
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my parts are in many duramaxes, but i was refering to my engines realiability specifically.
rollincoalCTD said:
I would say that if I got 3 seasons and only had to replace a block on a highly competitive drag truck and was able to re use 99% of the hard parts and build a little cheaper than its a win.
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Why three and not 10...do it right the first time was my point
r-rated diesel said:
I'm getting a feeling y'all two don't exchange Christmas cards..
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We get along fine, but my whole point was to make his builds more reliable and safer. I wasent talking down to him but trying to help him , same as weston was.

Sorry if it came out differently.
 
We havent found the limit to this setup yet. This is the first block failure we have seen. I think any block would have failed in this situation. I have several of these setups in 1000hp+ street trucks and zero failure rate. If we start busting blocks every time we go out, then I will have found the limit. But Im not gonna just gonna assume the block is the weak link when Ive only seen one fail. That is one of the problems with the diesel industry is, it seems people give up on an idea too soon.

I know some of the 2000+hp pullers bust blocks left and right, but thats not what 99.9% of the people on here are concerned with.
 
How much would a set of custom length rods cost vs deck block and use quality rods? I have a 5.9 and 6.7 long blocks in the garage for my winter project and considering either a 6.4 or billet rods in the 6.7. (Daily driver, pull in workstock, <900hp)

Would decking the block at a mortals income/power level weaken it that much? I know blacks diesel has made them last and I'm sure that's due to good tuning and proper set up.
 
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You could also use a forged/billet piston with the pin location altered.
 
Awwww deuce, that also...so have one made with a higher crown to keep the top ring land lower?
What about offset grinding crank/less off the deck?

And not trying to argue with you or wade by any means, but what causes cracked blocks? I'm guessing torsional stress, but will .070 really affect the mains area that much considering it is still bolted to the head?
 
Smokem said:
You could also use a forged/billet piston with the pin location altered.
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I mentioned that a page back as a option, also the changing of rod length. These two opposed to block decking are a better solution IMO
chris lang said:
Awwww deuce, that also...so have one made with a higher crown to keep the top ring land lower?
What about offset grinding crank/less off the deck?

And not trying to argue with you or wade by any means, but what causes cracked blocks? I'm guessing torsional stress, but will .070 really affect the mains area that much considering it is still bolted to the head?
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Any time you take material away from a High stress area the chance of failure increases greatly. in this case the deck thickness is only ~.300 thick and some vary...now take an additional .070-.080 off and you lost nearly a third of material and close to 50% strength, or possibly more!


Yes there are smarter and more reliable ways to do this, piston CH and RL are first approaches, You can alter crank too but thats not a common change for most, but we have done that too.

This is a fact, even cummins dont reccomend to take off anywhere near that much deck on a stock block truck with 300HP!
 
chris lang said:
but what causes cracked blocks?
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Extreme cylinder pressure is what destroys blocks. The Cummins castings are just not strong enough for repeated 1400hp+ hits. 50-75 full power pulls at that hp level are about max cycle life for a Cummins block if you want to save any of the rotating assembly.
 
In a lower hp street truck build would the setup be better for longevity where cylinder pressures aren't as high and the abuse is not as extensive as a drag truck? I would think if Ashley can get a block to live at his power level for 3 years, a street setup like I am after should last even longer?
 
A long rod is definately a better choice vs decking. Thats a pretty well known fact. But the cost of long rods, $4000+. The cost of decking, a couple hundred dollars. I think the latter works better for most, lol. Until we see the deck being a problem for us, I will not try to sell someone a set of $4000 rods for an engine thats 300-400hp less than ours.

Besides the failure at ennis, we have not had one single piston failure, EVER!. SO there is no reason for us to go to a custom billet when what we are using works 100%.

The bottom line is, you can have a very reliable 1000hp+ setup just by decking the block, a set of carrillos and cast pistons. You dont have to get a second mortgage to play at this level. There is no need for you to spend $30k on a deck plate motor for a 900hp street truck(i have seen this done, lol).
 
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