94 12 valve build

It's back together now, I covered the splines with red locktite and the threads and just put the nut back on.

Hopefully the locktite on the splines will stop the gear from moving, if it fails again I'll just get an updated nut I guess. Planning on putting a SB dd3250 in it soon as I can afford it so I'll check on the 5th gear then if it's still working.
 
Anywhere I've looked the SB 3250 and 3600 clutches are the same price, I'd just get the 3600. They're pretty drivable.
 
3600 is gonna be hard on the stock master and slave though right?

And how necessary is the bigger input? I eventually plan on a single in the 63/68 range with 5x14s so there will be some power going through that trans.
 
:welcome:
alex211 said:
3600 is gonna be hard on the stock master and slave though right?

And how necessary is the bigger input? I eventually plan on a single in the 63/68 range with 5x14s so there will be some power going through that trans.
Click to expand...

How necessary is head studs? You don't need them till you need them. If that answers your question.
 
I'd put the the big input in just my 2 cents plus I see your the durability tester lol good luck with your 5 speed I could never keep mine together
 
alex211 said:
3600 is gonna be hard on the stock master and slave though right?

And how necessary is the bigger input? I eventually plan on a single in the 63/68 range with 5x14s so there will be some power going through that trans.
Click to expand...

I'll let you know what kind of power the 63/68 and 5x14s make. That's what's on my truck. I'll be firing it off for the first time tomorrow night or Tuesday if all goes according to plan.

Sent from my paperweight.
 
I'm running stock first gen stuff with my 3600. It feels fine so far, I haven't driven it much though. I'll let you know in a few weeks if it craps.
 
Been looking into a HE351cw turbo for this truck.

Anyone good links to info with pictures for the swap. Trying to figure out all the little stuff I'm going to need to get the turbo on there. Looks like I can use the DAP adapter flange for the 351 and weld it on to my existing 4" down pipe.

What all will I need to setup the charge pipe? Probably gonna reclock the compressor housing and either go with a spring gate or remount the actuator. This little non wastgated turbo is pissing me off and it is really sloppy, waiting for it to grenade itself soon.
 
I just put a 45 boot on the turbo and got another ic pipe from the drivers side and shortened it up. It would blow the 45 boot at 45 to 50 pounds got really annoying. U could get a 45 deg pipe and weld the factory ic pipe ends on them. My 2 cents
 
So a 3" 45 and then cut the old IC tube and use it for ends on the 45 with some new boots?

Was the turbo a worthwhile upgrade in your opinion?

Downpipe looks like an HX40 style and then the DAP adapter to bolt it right to the turbo.
 
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alex211 said:
Was the turbo a worthwhile upgrade in your opinion?
Click to expand...

Depends on how much you spend on it IMO. But coming from an H1C, I could see it being a pretty good upgrade. It's not going to support tons of extra power, but it will support more. Or make a good secondary.
 
Great work! Im 18 and been building race motors with my dad since i could stand on my own. I can build a motor... body work on the other hand, ill leave that for the professionals lol
 
Well I got one on the way for 300 shipped.

Gonna be a little while until I can install it, want to get the bed lined this week. Can't stand looking at the red inside any longer.
 
I got a 45 silicone boot if u want it just pay shipping which wouldn't be much usps flat rate
 
Added this :evil

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Gotta get this on there

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4wd works good :rockwoot: Had to do it once, miss the jeep but this truck is strictly a pavement queen from now on. Gotta love the raw power in the mud though, so much more fun than a jeep 4.0

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Added these, much better than the cat stack.

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