ALH TDI problems

MORE MONEY WASTED!!! Ugh!!!


Okay I'm completely stumped as to where to look now..


Replaced the VNT Actuator and it limped just a few miles later... I left a light and was shifting from first to second and it Limped!!

The codes the keep re-occuring is these two!!

null_zpsae69ce3c.jpg






So after replacing all this:

New109 Relay under the dash
New N75 Valve
NewGlow plug #4
NewGlow plug harness
New MAF sensor
New Coolant temp sensor
53 Relay & 100 Relay under the cover near the Glow plug harness
New VNT Actuator



I'm Stumped!!! It has to center around that Fuel Cut Off Valve ground Intermitant code... I just can't see a vacum leak cause this type of code!!

Does ANYONE know anyone near the Atlanta area that's got VAG-COM and is a TDI specialist?? I'm tired of just throwing money at this thing!
 
Last edited:
Made a short vid asking for help and ideas...
If you're a member of any TDI forums, please share and see if any help can be had.
I've not joined any yet but guess I need to.






[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vv7w0LF1sRI"]I Need ALH TDI Help with Limp Mode Issue - YouTube[/ame]
 
If only you had this last week. Went to a tdi club meet and greet Saturday where we did my timing belt, new wastegate, and a Malone stage 3 tune. This car is finally safe and fun.

I will ask around though.
 
This is a tough one. I think if it was a problem with the fuel cutoff it would just quit running.

Sent from my MB865 using Tapatalk 2
 
If only you had this last week. Went to a tdi club meet and greet Saturday where we did my timing belt, new wastegate, and a Malone stage 3 tune. This car is finally safe and fun.

I will ask around though.

Thank you Sir!

I also need tuning!! Heard Malone is good.
I don't want to major hot rod it, just a tune that my stock clutch / tanny can hold.


This is a tough one. I think if it was a problem with the fuel cutoff it would just quit running.


Exactly... There is either an electric / ground wire issue but based on the times it chooses to limp, it's like it's low boost / rpm related..
 
I'm thinking a shorted (pressure) sensor is dropping reference voltage but possibly withing range and dropping sensor supply V+

From my Not-So-Smart phone
 
Hey swole, call kermatdi and talk to Charlie. he's the man!tell him what's up and he'll help you out,he's a guru. Helped me build a 200+HP dd that's had zero problems. Might be able to tune out your problem all together. Good luck:beer:

Sent from my DROID RAZR HD using Tapatalk 2
 
Hey swole, call kermatdi and talk to Charlie. he's the man!tell him what's up and he'll help you out,he's a guru. Helped me build a 200+HP dd that's had zero problems. Might be able to tune out your problem all together. Good luck:beer:

Sent from my DROID RAZR HD using Tapatalk 2

Or just ship it up to me with a box full of money and I'll send back the 13sec version!:D

Sent from my DROID RAZR HD using Tapatalk 2
 
I'm thinking a shorted (pressure) sensor is dropping reference voltage but possibly withing range and dropping sensor supply V+

Sounds like you may be right, but How do I tell what sensor?
Need someone with VAG I guess.

Hey swole, call kermatdi and talk to Charlie. he's the man!tell him what's up and he'll help you out,he's a guru. Helped me build a 200+HP dd that's had zero problems. Might be able to tune out your problem all together. Good luck:beer:

Good option..
I was also given a number to a tdi paramedic guy on tdiclub.. I need to call him also.


Or just ship it up to me with a box full of money and I'll send back the 13sec version!:D


I like this idea :)

I am considering a major mod session and let this thing be my fast toy.
I wanted another fast truck but it may be more fun to build this one!
 
Sounds like you may be right, but How do I tell what sensor?
Need someone with VAG I guess.



Good option..
I was also given a number to a tdi paramedic guy on tdiclub.. I need to call him also.





I like this idea :)

I am considering a major mod session and let this thing be my fast toy.
I wanted another fast truck but it may be more fun to build this one
!

Part in bold is what I'm doing. I drive the car every day and sometime hundreds of miles a day in my mind it should be a fun fast car to drive. Knocking down 50mpg while doing it just makes it that much sweeter.

Sorry for the bad luck once you get it fixed you will enjoy the car.

I think your on the right path on talking with the guys on Tdifourms. lots of smart people over there that understand these goofy German cars.

Mike
 
Paramedic is Bruce. I met him last sat in Columbus really nice guy and knows quite a bit. I'm waiting for Frank to text me. He goes by Franko6 on there. He helped me big time with my car. Very impressive guy. In fact he is doing my Titan 502 injectors. My car should be around 170-180 when done and according to mark at Malone and Aaron at bora parts I should be getting 60+ mpg.
 
Part in bold is what I'm doing. I drive the car every day and sometime hundreds of miles a day in my mind it should be a fun fast car to drive. Knocking down 50mpg while doing it just makes it that much sweeter.

Sorry for the bad luck once you get it fixed you will enjoy the car.

I think your on the right path on talking with the guys on Tdifourms. lots of smart people over there that understand these goofy German cars.

Mike

Paramedic is Bruce. I met him last sat in Columbus really nice guy and knows quite a bit. I'm waiting for Frank to text me. He goes by Franko6 on there. He helped me big time with my car. Very impressive guy. In fact he is doing my Titan 502 injectors. My car should be around 170-180 when done and according to mark at Malone and Aaron at bora parts I should be getting 60+ mpg.




Bad a$$ guys!!!

I may end up doing it.. It's paid for and I love the car. Had it for almost 5 years now... I bet 170-180 HP in this little thing would be Sick!!
 
Black valve that looks like your N75 is the N18 valve, it controls the egr, ignore it, just leave it plugged in, remove the vacuum lines to it and re-route all vacuum lines.

you can't just replace an actuator and hope its gonna work, it needs to be set up properly, use a mitivac and make it lift off the stop at about 4in-Hg, don't touch the stop screw!

So many things can cause limp mode, throwing parts at it won't fix it. Get VCDS hooked up(not generic obd reader!) and someone who's seasoned and knows what they're looking for looking at it.

Fuel shutoff solenoid is the valve right above the delivery valves on the injection pump, check the wires, listen to it click on and off when you turn the key on and off(and on but not start, it will shut off), check the wires going up to the 10 pin connector on the injection pump. This wire goes from the shut off solenoid, to the 10 pin connector, straight to the ecu. It could just be a bad solenoid. Injection Pump Shut-Off Solenoid - 028130135B - IDParts.com That wire is a +12v wire, not ground. the pump body/motor grounds it.

Talk to Bruce, very respected tdi mechanic.

Talk to some seasoned tdi guys before going with Kerma... I won't comment here anymore. I'm a Malone vendor.

hightechredneck, you won't get 170-180hp out of Titan 502's unless you have a 11mm pump and at least a vnt17/22. 60+mpg is not reasonable either, possible but not plausible.

Glow plugs: replace them as a set, all resistance values must be very close to one another, they're cheap and easy. Back tap the threads to clean them up

Your limp mode as you describe it could be one of so many things but I'm willing to bet its sticky vanes(full of soot), backwards check valve, vacuum leaks, and that list could go on and on.
 
I'm going to have to break down and fix my BRM. I followed the wife home and it blew smoke on nearly every shift. I pulled everything out of the vac system but the brakes and n75. Been running that way two weeks with no change

From my Not-So-Smart phone
 
Bruce Bowling is awesome BTW. He did my belt in Feb, and I tried to get him to replace my cam but he seemed really intent on having me do it myself.

From my Not-So-Smart phone
 
Black valve that looks like your N75 is the N18 valve, it controls the egr, ignore it, just leave it plugged in, remove the vacuum lines to it and re-route all vacuum lines.

I'VE SEEN A DIAGRAM WHERE CERTAIN LINE CAN BE REMOVED IF THE EGR AND OR (SOME OTHER 3 LETTER CODE) AREN'T THERE ANYMORE.

you can't just replace an actuator and hope its gonna work, it needs to be set up properly, use a mitivac and make it lift off the stop at about 4in-Hg, don't touch the stop screw!

I HAVE NO WAY TO DO THE CHECK...DON'T HAVE THAT TOOL.. BUT I GUESS WHOMEVER I BRING IT TO CAN HELP WITH THAT...

So many things can cause limp mode, throwing parts at it won't fix it. Get VCDS hooked up(not generic obd reader!) and someone who's seasoned and knows what they're looking for looking at it.

YEAH... I NEED A SPECIALIST TO LAY HANDS ON THIS THING AND JUST FIGURE IT OUT AND FIX IT... THEN I CAN START TUNING / BUILDING.

Fuel shutoff solenoid is the valve right above the delivery valves on the injection pump, check the wires, listen to it click on and off when you turn the key on and off(and on but not start, it will shut off), check the wires going up to the 10 pin connector on the injection pump. This wire goes from the shut off solenoid, to the 10 pin connector, straight to the ecu. It could just be a bad solenoid. Injection Pump Shut-Off Solenoid - 028130135B - IDParts.com That wire is a +12v wire, not ground. the pump body/motor grounds it.

YEAH, I POINTED TO THE VALVE IN MY VIDEO... I'VE WATCHED A FEW VIDS ABOUT IT ON YT...
I'VE NOT CHECKED THE "CLICKING" YET THOUGH... I NEED TO.. JUST NEED TO FIND A NEIGHBOR THAT WILL TURN THE SWITCH SO I CAN STAY UP FRONT.
BAD SOLENOID?? THE VALVE ITSELF OR AN ACTUAL SOLENOID UNDER THE DASH OR SOMEWHERE?


Talk to Bruce, very respected tdi mechanic.

HAVEN'T CALLED HIM YET BUT HAVE THE NUMBER... I NEED TO CALL SOON BUT I'M NOT OFF AGAIN TILL FRI - SUN... I'M SURE HE DOESN'T WANT TO DEAL WITH THIS STUFF ON JULY 4TH WKND....

Talk to some seasoned tdi guys before going with Kerma... I won't comment here anymore. I'm a Malone vendor.

I'VE UNDERSTAND WHERE YOU'RE COMING FROM... HEARD SOME STUFF ABOUT KERMA, BOTH GOOD AND BAD... SAME AS ANY COMPANY I GUESS..

I HAVE HEARD ABOUT MALONE... CAN YOU SELL ME A TUNER / TUNE? HOW DO I GO ABOUT GETTING STARTED ON TUNING THIS THING IN STOCK CONDITION FOR NOW...?


hightechredneck, you won't get 170-180hp out of Titan 502's unless you have a 11mm pump and at least a vnt17/22. 60+mpg is not reasonable either, possible but not plausible.

Glow plugs: replace them as a set, all resistance values must be very close to one another, they're cheap and easy. Back tap the threads to clean them up

JUST HEARD THIS FROM ANOTHER MECHANIC...I NEED TO REPLACE THE SET.. I GUESS I'LL ORDER / PURCHASE THE OTHER 3..THANKS!!!

Your limp mode as you describe it could be one of so many things but I'm willing to bet its sticky vanes(full of soot), backwards check valve, vacuum leaks, and that list could go on and on.

THE LEVEL ON THE TURBO THAT MOVES THE VANES MOVED VERY FREELY....DIDN'T FEEL STICKY AT ALL WHEN I WAS CHANGING THE ACTUATOR..

I SITLL NEED TO REPLACE ALL VACUM LINES...JUST HAVEN'T ORDERED THEM YET....


Bruce Bowling is awesome BTW. He did my belt in Feb, and I tried to get him to replace my cam but he seemed really intent on having me do it myself.

Where's he located??
I'd love to just drop it off to him...lol
 
Versailles Ky. I will hunt his address when I get home. Extremely professional individual.

And yes, I had arrived at the same conclusion on the cam. Should have melted a piston by now.

From my Not-So-Smart phone
 
Last edited:
The solenoid is the device I linked to, its on the pump, there are no additional relays. Signal goes directly from ECU to solenoid(through the pump connector). I have this exact engine harness laid out right now(doing a custom harness for my Passat).

EGR is Exhaust Gas Recirculation.

Have you gotten a code for anything about boost regulation or pressure? Usually when you go into limp mode, there is a code that gives you some hint.
Can that scanner you have log boost pressure? If so, take a log and post it up.

Yes, you can buy a loader and tune from me, its different than what you're use to with trucks, the loader loads files, the tune is an actual re-map, kind of what you'd get if you bought a EFI Live loader and a tune from someone and had them do all the tuning by e-mail, you can't make any map adjustments yourself.
PM me if you'd like.

With your stock clutch, you can only handle a stage 1 tune OR injector upgrade, not both. If you want more than that you'll have to upgrade your clutch.


I'd strongly encourage you to purchase VCDS(legit version) and learn how to use it(its easy, I can help).


Total EGR delete is easy, remove all vacuum lines, run the big 5mm line from airbox to the atmosphere side of the N75, bottom barb. Run a 3mm line into a T, one leg of the T to the vacuum ball, the other leg to the top of the N75. Run a line from the middle of the N75 straight to the actuator on the turbo. No check valves necessary. If you want to install a check valve, install it before the T.

I always leave the N18 valve in, on a rare occasion the tune won't clear the code if its removed. It can be further modified to pick out that code if the valve is removed and a code shows up.
 
Okay... Got ya on the valve / solenoid... Thx.


Yeah, Lol I know what egr means.. lol
The diagram showed another 3 letter code that stood for something else.
Just can't remember.. I'll look for the link I saw it in.



NO codes at all for boost pressures... Only one even close is the waste gate code..
Here are the only 5 codes it's had over the years before I started replacing stuff.

P0674 - Cyl. 4 glow plug circuit
P0402 - EGR circuit flow excessive
P0245 - Turbo wastegate solenoid A low
P0118 - Coolant temp sensor ( been this way since I got it. Never caused an issue until until several thousand miles later & after timing belt / EGR service. Then started limping a while later.)
P1538 - Fuel cut off valve open circuit



Actually... There was one more recently.... Something weird.. Let me find the pic..

The middle one!!!! P3003
Weird

null_zpsd8ff1969.jpg





This was the last time we pulled codes, just a few days ago after it had limped...
My CEL seems to be coming from the glow plug codes.. It doesn't come back on untill the car is cold and on a cold start.. Even in hot weather.


null_zpsae69ce3c.jpg






Excellent.. I'll contact ya!!



Will consider the VCDS as soon as I can manage to have the time to study.. We'll talk about that as well.. Thx!



I will look at this when I can to show vacum reroute / deletes.. Thanks!
 
Back
Top