ALH TDI problems

The scanner is one directly for VW.. My friend that works there does me this favor bu can't bring it with me on testing.. All done under the table / not on a work order..

So bringing it with me isn't poss right now to log boost.. This is where I need someone with VAG..
 
I find it weird that volkswagen diagnostic shows P codes, lol. P codes are pretty much useless. The other code ie 19459, is the one you should look at. Google "ross-tech 19459"

That specific one doesn't yield any results, its the coolant glow plug relay likely. I have never seen a code for that nor should it effect anything unless your harness is all chewed up and that is where you're having all your problems. All these devices are tied into a common yellow wire which is +12v, Its possible there is corrosion somewhere causing issues - they get power from the plenum plugs near the drivers side.

I also find it funny that the VAG software is calling it a wastegate. And that it says glow plug #4. Your system doesn't have the ability to detect which glow plug is causing the fault. All it can do is see a difference in voltage drop across plugs 1&2 together vs plugs 3&4 together, even then it couldn't tell you anything. If you replace the plugs and still throws that code, I have the solution.

Also, if the fuel shut off solenoid opened while driving, the engine would die, not limp mode, but it would die.

With your hood open, you should be able to hear the solenoid click. It probably does since the car runs. It cuts off fuel to the plunger in the pump when power is removed from it.

lol I kinda wondered about EGR ;) its probably ASV that you're thinking of? Anti-Shudder Valve, its located in the EGR valve itself(flapper) and the solenoid is on the intake manifold. Do yourself a favor and replace the vacuum lines(use good OEM preferably, no flimsy lines!)

I just read back to the first post - 99.5 have hot start issues which is a simple fix included in every tune. You require ECU sockets(I do this) and chips for a tune vs a loader.

tn_IMAG0533.jpg
 
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I find it weird that volkswagen diagnostic shows P codes, lol. P codes are pretty much useless. The other code ie 19459, is the one you should look at. Google "ross-tech 19459"

That specific one doesn't yield any results, its the coolant glow plug relay likely. I have never seen a code for that nor should it effect anything unless your harness is all chewed up and that is where you're having all your problems. All these devices are tied into a common yellow wire which is +12v, Its possible there is corrosion somewhere causing issues - they get power from the plenum plugs near the drivers side.

I also find it funny that the VAG software is calling it a wastegate. And that it says glow plug #4. Your system doesn't have the ability to detect which glow plug is causing the fault. All it can do is see a difference in voltage drop across plugs 1&2 together vs plugs 3&4 together, even then it couldn't tell you anything. If you replace the plugs and still throws that code, I have the solution.

Also, if the fuel shut off solenoid opened while driving, the engine would die, not limp mode, but it would die.

With your hood open, you should be able to hear the solenoid click. It probably does since the car runs. It cuts off fuel to the plunger in the pump when power is removed from it.

lol I kinda wondered about EGR ;) its probably ASV that you're thinking of? Anti-Shudder Valve, its located in the EGR valve itself(flapper) and the solenoid is on the intake manifold. Do yourself a favor and replace the vacuum lines(use good OEM preferably, no flimsy lines!)

I just read back to the first post - 99.5 have hot start issues which is a simple fix included in every tune. You require ECU sockets(I do this) and chips for a tune vs a loader.

tn_IMAG0533.jpg


Good deal...Thanks for all the replies!!
I'm gonna be busy for the next several hours of my shift.
Got a meeting with the Chief at 2pm and need to prepare.

I'll send ya my number on PM... Then text me yours!!
Thanks man!!


David
 
There's a small vacuum check valve just ahead of the N75 valve that can go bad. I read most of your thread and didn't seen any mention of it being replaced.
 
I didnt think to check it on mine.

Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk 2
 
Not for nothing, but if that check valve is in fact bad it will mimick the symptoms of bad vacuum lines and won't allow the N75 to actuate the VNT properly or maintain proper vacuum in the resivior. It only takes about 3 taps of the brakes to drain that resivior of most of the vacuum.
 
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You can also operate just fine without the check valve. I forgot to put the check valve in the Jetta my brother in law now has, I did a ton of logging with that and I saw no adverse effects. Layout vacuum system like I described in an earlier post.

I installed a check valve in my car when I just redid the vacuum again, just because.
 
SPECIAL Vacuum Check Valve - 046905291A - IDParts.com

idparts is one of the best places to get TDI parts.



I see that this place sells tons of stuff for our cars.... But like that valve it's says they're from "over stock" that have casing irregularities... I supposed that's just visual stuff and that they WON'T sell stuff that's doesn't work perfectly...


I need to order the valve and some vacum line today..(Should have done it sooner but just too busy with work).... HOW MUCH of the 3mm line and HOW MUCH of the 5mm line will I need to Make SURE I have enough to do the whole car, even as it sits... Without deleting any... (I hope to run it like you posted but want to make sure I have enough)
 
I haven't bought much from them, but I did buy a cam and lifters for my ALH. I was very pleased with quality and shipping time.
 
Thanks Duck!



Also, The vacum pump seal.... Is this something I should replace? And is it easy?
 
I don't know the exact length, its at least 3 feet to get from the N75 to the turbo, then you'll need probably 3 feet of 3mm to go from vacuum pump to n75 and vacuum ball, maybe more.

IDparts does only sell high quality stuff. If you ever have an issue, e-mail or call them, they're really good. I started into a big project for someone and they accidentally sent the wrong part, they overnighted the correct one free of charge because it was Wed and I needed to finish it on Sunday.

You only need a short bit of 5mm, you can probably get away with using the old stuff. Its not under vacuum ever and I have never had it deteriorate.

Vacuum pump seal is straight forward, but its only an oil seal.
 
I don't know the exact length, its at least 3 feet to get from the N75 to the turbo, then you'll need probably 3 feet of 3mm to go from vacuum pump to n75 and vacuum ball, maybe more.

IDparts does only sell high quality stuff. If you ever have an issue, e-mail or call them, they're really good. I started into a big project for someone and they accidentally sent the wrong part, they overnighted the correct one free of charge because it was Wed and I needed to finish it on Sunday.

You only need a short bit of 5mm, you can probably get away with using the old stuff. Its not under vacuum ever and I have never had it deteriorate.

Vacuum pump seal is straight forward, but its only an oil seal.

Good Deal! Thanks
 
Well I've still not done anything with my car again yet ... Never replaced the vac lines or pulled the turbo to clean the veins. BUT, I've driven it quite a bit after installing the new actutor on the turbo ( not many hwy miles though ) and after it limped a few times right after instal, it's not limped again in a long time. Weird!!

I still have codes because I still need to replace the other three glow plugs since the one didn't fix the issue, not did the harness....

I just don't have much time and don't drive it much.. But I hate having things undone and not figured out for sure...
 
Still no limping !!
Very very wierd that I've gone this long now and it's not done it again.

Maybe cooler temps have something to do with it, but if it was a dirty turbo that needed cleaning, you'd think it would still be acting up even in cooler temps ..


Any thoughts?
 
i had the same issue.

Replaced the n75 & also took apart the turbo & cleaned it. The VNT vanes were jammed with carbon since the bad n75 wasnt working properly. runs great now.

did you also check the vnt actuator diaphram?
 
i had the same issue.

Replaced the n75 & also took apart the turbo & cleaned it. The VNT vanes were jammed with carbon since the bad n75 wasnt working properly. runs great now.

did you also check the vnt actuator diaphram?

Replaced N75 and the vnt actuator... Along with many other things..

Just haven't pulled the turbo.. Figure if I gonna do that I'll mod and replace with bigger / better...

Just never have time.


Stil haven't replace vac lines yet though. Seems to hardly ever do it in the winter / colder temps...
 
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