ARP 625s: 1, CR Head: 0

[SINNER]

I don't think you realize it, but you pretty much admitted that you can't read above a 3rd grade level.

You don't have to be an english professor to comprehend simple text. The title mearly demonstrates that the arp proved to be a stronger metal than the head. However, I guess it's much simpler to just assume, when you fail to fully grasp the topic of discussion.

The comment about the 160 ft-lbs was simply a fact and an answer to a question that would have eventually been asked. It was more so directed at Chase and the false tightness.

I thought for sure the "dog ****" casting comment made it clear. Sorry for confusing you.

Let me guess...Public school right? LMAO

If you can not comprehend that implying a score to the title means the ARP's won the contest between the head and the studs(Stupid analogy I know but it is your analogy.)then explaining the metallurgy involved and the interaction between the two dissimilar metals seems pointless. You clearly imply that the ARP damaged your engine's head in the title. Due to torque, type of alloy or WTF ever is pointless in this discussion.

Your lack of comprehension on a simple "chinese head" comment just solidifies the fact you are not the sharpest knife in the kitchen. LMFAO

And not that it means chit but I would bet I was running the 625's in my CR before you knew they even existed.

 

[LReiff]

I didn't read through this whole thread but as we all know, pictures speak a million words.

160ftlb is not the cause of the head deck sinking around the studs.

 

[paulb]

Did the head/block have BOTH of the dowels? Any sign of the head shifting on the blocks?

 

[oldestof11]

While the title can be taken as it's "ARPs fault", if you read the 1st post it can be taken either way. I thought that at first till the castings comment was made.

Ya both need to lay off the insults, man up, and apologize.

 

[LAmiller]

The block had two NEW dowel installed when the head was installed on the truck, the head gasket looked brand new, not one rip, tear, or delamination. This all happened in 3 weeks after installing new head, and I can't see how the head would have been able to move at all.

Lavon

 

[SINNER]

If it was head walk they all would be worn equally. I would bet it is the head casting also. That or a out of adjustment TQ wrench. And judging from the results of having quite a few calibrated saying it's a Snap On does not mean much. Seen a brand new Torque angle wrench off by more than 40 ft. lbs before.

 

[coon smile]

Let me guess...Public school right? LMAO

:lolly: Excellent opening.

If you can not comprehend that implying a score to the title means the ARP's won the contest between the head and the studs(Stupid analogy I know but it is your analogy.)

Yes I was suggesting that arp won. Look at the pictures.

You clearly imply that the ARP damaged your engine's head in the title.

Well, arp DID damamge the head. The next question is MORE IMPORTANT: why? I gave my opinion why in Post #6 - please go back a read it on the first page.

Due to torque, type of alloy or WTF ever is pointless in this discussion.

Let's go back........

Well I am no English professor but your title and comments would lead a 3rd. grader to the conclusion that you were in fact blaming the higher torque values associated with the 625's...

Wrong. That's just what you assumed, and I can't figure out why.

Your lack of comprehension on a simple "chinese head" comment just solidifies the fact you are not the sharpest knife in the kitchen. LMFAO

Read post #32

And not that it means chit but I would bet I was running the 625's in my CR before you knew they even existed.

:lolly: Even better closing.

 

[rjp]

160'lbs will pull the threads on a set of 625's if used more than a few times. Inferior metal is what caused your issue!

JUST SAYIN

 

[bobcat67]

I think we've all come to the conclusion that inferior metal in the head is what caused this to happen. I think we can let that fact rest and just let them argue with each other about whom attained the highest level of education.

 

[FireMed]

My God son. You, Chase and Swole have the worst luck of any i have seen. Sorry to hear about your luck.

 

[OT-OF-Here]

Soft plugs

Lost a soft plug in the head. A ton of coolant got in the oil. Bearings and crank were roasted.

Your turbo, cam bearings, cam, bearings (rods and mains) will be shot. When you go back together with it you can put threaded plugs where the soft plugs were. Don't forget to have your IC and Radiator boiled out and psi tested. The turbo may be able to be rebuilt, fyi. You should also get your crank checked out. Been there.

 

[OT-OF-Here]

How 'bout

I think we've all come to the conclusion that inferior metal in the head is what caused this to happen. I think we can let that fact rest and just let them argue with each other about whom attained the highest level of education.

Hydrolocking while under power,.....K-Boom! When those soft plugs go they pump tons of antifreeze into your oil pan. He will find evidence in every nook and cranny of that engine,... or what's left of it. You cannot run these trucks hard until at full operating temp.

 

[coon smile]

Your turbo, cam bearings, cam, bearings (rods and mains) will be shot. When you go back together with it you can put threaded plugs where the soft plugs were. Don't forget to have your IC and Radiator boiled out and psi tested. The turbo may be able to be rebuilt, fyi. You should also get your crank checked out. Been there.

Yeah, I read your thread after this happened.

Only the rod and main bearings were scorched. Everything else, including the turbo, was fine. I will be putting a new intercooler in with the build. As for the radiator, I will have that checked out. Thanks.

The block was checked and serviced, along with the crank. Block was honed and crank was polished.

Threaded plugs will go in the new head.

 

[coon smile]

Hydrolocking while under power,.....K-Boom! When those soft plugs go they pump tons of antifreeze into your oil pan. He will find evidence in every nook and cranny of that engine,... or what's left of it. You cannot run these trucks hard until at full operating temp.

The truck was at operating temp. It is something I have taught myself to watch throughout years of toying with higher hp cummins.

I did my last retorque on the oringed head, and I took it out for testing. I cautiously ran the truck at least 10 miles up the road. I remember it being at operating temp within the first 5 minutes of the drive. I turned around at an intersection and made one WOT pull on my way back. The truck screamed and everything that I usually monitor was in check. When I got back to the house, a co-worker standing in the driveway made a comment about white smoke coming from under my truck. By the time I looked, the truck was already shut off, and I could see a very very slight haze. It looked like normal blow-by on a cooler night, and I didn't think much of it.

The next morning I started my truck up and headed to the office. Within 2 minutes of driving, I noticed the water temp gauge fluctuating up and down - never really getting too hot. It kept doing that for another 2 miles, and I finally decided to pull over. I shut the truck off and popped the hood. I looked for leaks around the engine and under the truck. I couldn't find anything. I turned my key over, and the temp gauge was holding steady at normal operating temp. So, I started back up the road. Within a couple more miles, the gauge started fluctuating again. At that point, I was thinking it was an issue with the gauge. I drove about 10 more minutes up the road and pulled over when the temp gauge stopped coming back down to operating temp. It wasn't pegged, but it was near the red. This time, I left the truck running, and there was a TON of white smoke bellowing out of the blow-by tube under the truck. I shut it off and popped the hood. I took off the oil fill cap and noticed a yogurt/milky texture on the base of the cap.

Found a soft plug laying under the valve cover.

I am now rebuilding.