coolant bypass

Opie said:
Opies kits are going up in price.
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morkable said:
Opie, how soon? I have to get the twins out of the way, but I do want to buy your kit too.. and how much is it going up?

Kevin
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X2, need one, but Ive been holding off b/c of the economy and my lack of a job, also how much is the price increase going to be
 
I don't have pics... but mine is plumbed between the Stainless arch and the t-stat housing.

if u do get some pics post them i would like to see them i would appreciate it
 
Signature600 said:
Got a kit for 12v's XLR8R? Or at least able to buy the valving? I already run a block off plate at the back of the block, with a line running from there, through my heater core and tranny heat exchanger, and back into the factory "dump" down at the lower hose...the truck runs too cold, heat isn't worth a crap, etc. I was thinking something like this would help.


BTW, sorry for the hijack,
Chris
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12Vs are different Chris - there's no cooling gallery plugs on the head's exhaust side... is there one on the rear, by #6? That's the best place, since it's usually the hottest part of the coolant jacket (and the first place where steam pockets tend to develop).
You could plumb a BOE PRV into the blockoff plate line to get rid of the constant-bleed design that you're running now.

not enoughsmoke said:
Does That Boe Kit Help To Keep From Blowin Head Gasket And What All Do U Have Done To Ur Truck As Far As Needing This Kit I Have Twin Turbos And Twin Pumps And Lots More And Its Gonna Be A Sled Puller And Daily Driver
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Excessive cylinder pressure vs. fire ring clamp load lifts the head... obviously that can allow oil and/or coolant to go where it shouldn't and make expensive smoke, but high cooling system pressure by itself won't blow a good HG.
It'll just take out the freeze plugs, usually starting with the block's rear passenger side, although I have seen the head's internal plugs (under the rocker cover) blow first.

O-ringed heads are a different story, as the stud's clamp load (torque) has to be matched with ring protrusion so proper gasket crush is established around the oil & coolant holes. For instance, torque the studs to 120ft-lbs on .110" rings with .018" protrusion and you'll likely be exchanging water & oil at higher RPM.

The large freeze plugs in the side of the block each must withstand over 200 lbs. of ejective force at 3500 RPM.
 
p.s. I'm putting one on a CR tomorrow - I'll post a photo.
 
XLR8R said:
12Vs are different Chris - there's no cooling gallery plugs on the head's exhaust side... is there one on the rear, by #6? That's the best place, since it's usually the hottest part of the coolant jacket (and the first place where steam pockets tend to develop).
You could plumb a BOE PRV into the blockoff plate line to get rid of the constant-bleed design that you're running now.
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I don't know of any plugs for the cooling galleries on a 12v, except the ones at the front that the factory used.

I'm assuming you'll sell me a valve?
Thanks,
Chris
 
Of course - what thread does the blockoff plate fitting have?
 
1/2" NPT, or I can put it inline with 5/8" hose barbs. Either is fine with me.

Thanks
Chris
 
The BOE uses a pair of -12 lines, but I can send you a -8 PRV that would mount directly to the plate (or of course you could install it in line with hose barbs).
 
Opie said:
Opies kits are going up in price.
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Opie,

There are three guys incuding myself that were asking for a pm on the price of your kit.They can be found on the sponsor site page.

Eric
 
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We will be releasing this kit in a few weeks. It is simple, effective, neat and unobtrusive. It flows into the thermostat housing, it will come as shown with braided stainless lines and AN fittings, along with the bypass valve assembly. It will come preassembled, and can be installed in less than 30 minutes.
 
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Kewl, a year ago we originally tried returning into the thermostat houseing and it effected thermostat operation for some reason. We also found the need to move to a regulator that could do some serious flow when needed. Looks like you are able to make -8 or 1/2 line flow enough from your pic.

Eric there have been some developments here as well just getting a couple guys loaded up...
 
It is -10 line or 5/8", we found under normal driving that pressure is not sufficient enough to effect thermostat operation, through bypassed flow. If one was to run the engine pretty hard before the thermostat opened, the hotter coolant dumped on top of it, could actually make it open sooner. Not a bad thing in that concept, just slower for the heater to warm you up. Aside from that it is not good for the engine to "nuke" it before its up to operating temperature anyway. As for line size, we can only flow through the smallest restriction, that being the size of the fitting screwed into the head (1/2"). More than one way to skin a cat, I guess
 
Thats a pretty impressive regulator if it flows more than the fitting in the head. As for the thermostat housing I found it made the temp guage wander especailly when going through the passes.
 
Opie, got on of your kits via Wap.

Looks like a well thought out design.
 
WICKEDDIESELS said:
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We will be releasing this kit in a few weeks. It is simple, effective, neat and unobtrusive. It flows into the thermostat housing, it will come as shown with braided stainless lines and AN fittings, along with the bypass valve assembly. It will come preassembled, and can be installed in less than 30 minutes.
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Very nice, looks like theres good clearence with twins also.
 
Opie said:
Thats a pretty impressive regulator if it flows more than the fitting in the head. As for the thermostat housing I found it made the temp guage wander especailly when going through the passes.
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Geez what was I thinking, why would anyone want something like this. Must not be much to it, since it is so simple and neat looking. I guess I will go back to the drawing board and severely overcomplicate my contraption, so I can double the price and be competitive. Um...NO
 
bh10 said:
Very nice, looks like theres good clearence with twins also.
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Thank you!
Plenty of room with this design, for twins and still enough room to get in there and retorque the head if needed, by just disconnecting the 90 at the head.
 
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