Cummins NTC-350

The STC on that N14 will be what could cause you problems, other than that it should be just fine. Good luck on making the air to air work in the w900.
 
SmokinCAT, your saying the STC is going to hurt pulling, right?

Yes the charge cooler is what my dad and I figured was going to be a big hurdle to get over. But the truck did have air louvers in front of the radiator that are not much wider than the charge cooler on my dad's '88 W900. Plus there is a decent amount of space between the louvers and the grill. This truck does not have the condenser style grill,it just has a screen. I think making mounts for the charge cooler will be the toughest part.
 
I know mine does not have room with the stock radiator for any air to air tubes.

I have a friend that has an air to air B model in his and if I remember right he said he had to use a radiator and cooler from a freightliner.

STC injectors are expensive, I have never heard of anyone modifying them, nor do I think I have seen a good factory uprgrade for them. I believe that they are also not interchangeable with the big cam injectors if you wanted to do away with the STC.
 
Well was able to get the truck out and drive it around a little bit. Ran it for maybe half an hour or so all together. The water temperature got up to about 170 to 175 and the white smoke at an idle was all cleaned up. There wasn't even a wif if white smoke in it, accelerating no white smoke. I am very happy with the result. I was hoping heat would help solve the problem, but wasn't going to get my hopes up.

Here's a little video:
[ame="http://s1166.photobucket.com/user/RockinRam96/media/1973%20Kenworth%20W923/IMG_1867_zps9351a343.mp4.html"]IMG_1867_zps9351a343.mp4 Video by RockinRam96 | Photobucket[/ame]
 
It sounds good, my big cam I have now doesn't idle that good, I will have to get a current video of it this weekend.

Here is the one I put together a while back, prolly the truest running one we have ever had, traded it off to get a newer truck. It had a pretty wicked pump on it in the first video. The second is a start on two batteries after sitting for about a month.

855 Cummins cold idle. - YouTube

855 cummins start up - YouTube



And here is my K100 with a new set of injectors, little did I know that the accessory drive is off by a bunch, from now on injector sets are being done by measuring travel.

Smoking 855 Cummins - YouTube
 
I am pretty happy with the way it cleaned up the smoke when it go heat into it. It lopes a little bit when it is cold, it was worse when I first brought it home in April and it was still pretty chilly out. But since the pump has been rebuilt, injectors check and reset and new fuel lines it runs and responds a lot crisper. Its got quite a snap to it when it is warm.

I am very excited and anxious to get it out and drive it now. I am going to check into a few things on that N14. Not that I don't believe you, SmokinCAT, but I dont want to buy something that I wish I hadn't. Especially since this old motor cleans up like it has. I am honestly quite surprised it cleaned up so well.

What did you have done to the pump in the first video? How much rail pressure, injectors? I've only got about 210 psi of rail pressure and idles pretty smooth still.
 
At that time it was only pump work, that is the pump I had on when I bent all the exhaust valves. I never got to check the pressure on that one, but it had a 00 button in it and the screw is almost all the way out.

That is the same pump I have on m cabover now except I figure out how to disable the afc, is pushes around 380psi with the regular 3/4" gear pump. I pulled some of the free rev rpm out of it when it went on the cabover, but by changing the spring itself I have more useable rpm.

I will probably be building another one for it, but I will be using a 903 pump instead, they are said to have lighter internal weights so it doesn't take as many shims to get big rpm out of them. Plus it's getting an 1 1/4" gear pump.
 
I am hopefully going to see how it pulls in a few weeks. Depending on how it does I may get a little more into the pump.

The guy at Antrim that rebuilt my pump said he got it to fuel to 2,200 rpm. Does that mean it only spins that much or does fuel cut off at 2,200?

Either way I am overly excited that getting it to operating temperature cured the smoke problem. Hopefully she keeps running strong all summer.
 
That should be rpm under power. The pump I bent the valves with would turn 3000 under power and that was it, but would prolly free rev to over 4K. Here is the video of when it bent the valves, it was running 2900 under power, almost broke the needle off the 3500rpm tach when it over revved.

Street Semi Pull at the Highland County Fair - YouTube

Also here is a pic of that ht80 the cover had to stay turned out to not hit the manifold.
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Old wheel.
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Finished product.
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I bet it sounded pretty cool when it bent the valves!

I was told with the additional fuel I will be throwing at this motor an HT60 is what I want to look into for a turbo. I don't know if I'll get that extravagant right now but maybe in the future, depending on EGTs. That HT80 must be giant and you must be putting a lot of fuel to it. I would have to imagine that 390 psi rail pressure is at the high end? Hopefully I can get mine out on the road in the next week or so and take it for a good spin and she what this old motor has.
 
The black turbo above is the HT80 compressor, the exhaust side is unique on the 80 and only has the option for one big azz housing.

Click the YouTube link in the post with the turbo pictures that is the video of it bending the valves.

A ht60 will be a good upgrade, and should make it fun to drive.
 
Been getting everything back together. Only two weeks left before our first pull. Rubbed on the paint the last two days. Went over it with the buffer and rubbing compound, them went over it with polishing compound by hand. Need to wax next.

There are a bunch of dull spots that just won't polish out. But how much can you ask for out of 40 year old paint. I personally think that it looks great for being original.

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1369688740.771107.jpg
 
[ame]http://i1166.photobucket.com/albums/q619/RockinRam96/1973%20Kenworth%20W923/IMG_1884_zpsa7def5b0.jpg[/ame]

Got one step and both fuel tank straps all fabricated last night. Kenworth wanted $250 per tank strap because they have the step and fender brackets in them. A good friend of mine has a shear and machine shop so we made straps our selves.
 
Anyone know where the flasher unit goes in these trucks. I cannot find a fuse panel and I had all of the panels pulled off this weekend and couldn't find the flasher unit. Turn signals don't work!
 
Looks good, nice to see it all cleaned up. Now it's time to start hunting for some hubs to do away with those daytons.
 
I personally like the Daytons. I'll probably keep them on the drives, but I would like to put a bud axle on the front end with brakes and maybe even air ride! I was considering putting a KW cut off on it but my dad thinks that the Hendrixson will be better for pulling. Plus the truck only weighs 13,000 right now, if I went to bud wheels and hubs I'd me a bit lighter.

I am pleased with the way it has turned out. The paint polished out better than I had hoped and all the painting I did looks good (in my mind). Considering I've only had this truck for 66 days it has made quite the transformation. There will most certainly be changes to come, as I haven't even touched the interior (just cleaned the windows last night), but I plan on having this truck for quite some time.

I am trying to get my lights working properly and I cannot figure out where the flasher unit goes. I found one in the glove box that has two prongs on it but I am stumped as to where it goes. I had the dash all apart Sunday looking for its home but had no luck, didnt find a fuse box/ panel either.
 
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