Drive train questions

Sportster1208

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Nov 14, 2011
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I swapped out my Dana 70 trac lock for a DRW 80 with the factory posi and I'm putting in a Np271 at the same time. My truck is still street driven and I'm pulling in Modified street class. I want to do the CAD delete and change to 35 spline axels but what locker for the front would work best? So far I've been told the E locker would be my best choice but I wanted a second opinion. Should I just run the factory posi in the rear or upgrade to a Detroit locker and stronger axels? I might be at 600hp with my setup but that's probably a good day?
 
Thanks Wil I figured someone would feel bad for me! Maybe one day I'll play with you big boys! ECD wants me to get the E locker for the front, I just want simple with no wires or air lines! What's your view on the factory posi in the rear?
 
if you are hooked up you will break the spiders in that stock locker.. i did and our track suck.. detroit and forget it. as for the front if you do take the two piece out your going to always be spinning the driveshaft so expect for vibrations on the hwy unless you put a lock out.
 
if you do a cad delete you want a slectable locker in the front since you will be turning both axles all the time and its a street truck or it won't turn to good
 
We just installed a grizzly locker in front of a customers truck, still running the cad style for now. Hope to see how it works on the track next saterday.
 
if you are hooked up you will break the spiders in that stock locker.. i did and our track suck.. detroit and forget it. as for the front if you do take the two piece out your going to always be spinning the driveshaft so expect for vibrations on the hwy unless you put a lock out.


If your front driveshaft is in good shape and properly balanced it should be just as smooth as the rear......


As for the E-locker, i love mine. The only issue i had was a melted plug on the pigtail coming out of the diff. It was actually kind of a fluke and my fault. I had the front inspection cover off my truck and was bombing through some deepish snow, and the plug got moved and wedged against the oil pan......Not a problem i see occuring with a dodge, or a chevy for that matter if some lazy dip **** would have put that cover back on.
 
As for the rear get an open carrier for the Dana 80 and weld the spiders and never look back. It's easier and cheapest thing you can do. Or you can just put in a factory posi Dana 80 and ask Lamar to rearrange the clutches. If the clutches and steels are arranged right it'll be as close to locked as you can get without having to spend any money.

As far as the front I just installed the E-locker and 35 spline one piece axels in the front. We'll see how they hold up. Judging by the side by side comparison the new axels are quite a bit heavier.

The cheapest option would be to weld the front and continue to use your factory cad. That's what I was doing for the last several years.
 
As for the rear get an open carrier for the Dana 80 and weld the spiders and never look back. It's easier and cheapest thing you can do. Or you can just put in a factory posi Dana 80 and ask Lamar to rearrange the clutches. If the clutches and steels are arranged right it'll be as close to locked as you can get without having to spend any money.

As far as the front I just installed the E-locker and 35 spline one piece axels in the front. We'll see how they hold up. Judging by the side by side comparison the new axels are quite a bit heavier.

The cheapest option would be to weld the front and continue to use your factory cad. That's what I was doing for the last several years.


Which factory posi are you guys talking? The trac lok or power lok? One of them was much better than the other but i can never keep the 2 straight.
 
I've been using a posi type tru-trac for the last couple years with no issues. And about half the price of a locker
 
My rear is a 97 so that was the posi before the trac loc, I'm not sure I think the power loc. As for the CAD delete Im installing the 271 so I would have to cable the Cad or Install a one piece and delete it.
 
I ran a welded front carrier with no problems, went with a detroit locker and one peice 35 spline axles this year. As far as the rear Oem posi, just split the posi apart and stack the clutches and plates every other one ( clutch, plate, clutch, plate, clutch...) and do that with as many of them as you can. It will work great, but as mentioned above it will blow on a good track if you have enough power ( destroyed my carrier last season).
 
I decided on Detroits front and back with axel upgrades. Once and done and forget about it! Now for some more hp!
 
Guys that have welded their front carrier. You were able to do this and steer the truck with out lock outs?
 
I know haisley's sells alot of cool ****, but ide be willing to bet there 35 spline axles are someone elses re boxed.

You know what impressed me is after I put my order in Haisley called me and asked if my truck was competition only? Why ? Because she said the spool would be cheaper and more effective if that's what my needs were! I had to inform her my truck is still street driven but I thanked her for thinking about her customers first!
 
Welding the OEM carriers will work most of the time in like a work stock class but 2.6 or higher your just asking to break sh!t with the kind of power that's made in those classes.
 
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