exhaust brake not working

4x4dually said:
I'm listening....powder......blue.....
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It HAD rails in this bed at some point the holes are still there, but we're not 100% sure that this is not the original bed? :what:

Has a hole in the front right corner where looks like stack was ran up, and a square hole on the drivers side front corner where something like an aux tank may have been ran?! :what:

Belong to the Texas State Prison system before my buddy bought it off a used lot in Alabama. :hehe:

Its not hurt and its a NICE truck, but its had a questionable life :hehe:
 
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Cleaned the sensor and the line out on lunch yesterday still doesn't work....

Next suggestion?
 
97$moker said:
Box 366, eff the vgt, eff the exhaust brake lol.
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Once again smart guy, you wanna stroke the check I will gladly take your money.

If you have nothing constructive or helpful to add GTFO! :soap:
 
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Got Smoke? said:
Sure write me a check for $2500 so I can go buy a turbo smart guy:umno:
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If the nozzle is effed up preventing it from traveling all of the way it will typically overload the motor and throw a turbo code of some sort. Scanned for codes at all??


That being said aftermarket turbo will be a much cheaper route than replacing the vgt turbo. Those are pricey little units....



Of course aftermarket turbo doesnt fix your lack of an exhaust brake issue either LOL
 
Mudn_1 said:
Does The Switch Illuminate?
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zfaylor said:
If the nozzle is effed up preventing it from traveling all of the way it will typically overload the motor and throw a turbo code of some sort. Scanned for codes at all??


That being said aftermarket turbo will be a much cheaper route than replacing the vgt turbo. Those are pricey little units....



Of course aftermarket turbo doesnt fix your lack of an exhaust brake issue either LOL
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:thankyou2:

Yes the switch illuminates I have cleaned the EBP sensor and line, I changed my display on my MiniMax to show me EBP and it runs 4psi over whatever boost I'm making, and goes down with the boost as soon as I let off the throttle. I've scanned it a couple of times before start up and have seen no codes.

This turbo is functioning fine other than lack of exhaust brake, I have no plans for high horsepower on this rig that's what my 12V is for and why its in the shape its in. Even if I was to replace the turbo which I can't afford right now, I would put a Fleece VGT or similar turbo on it to retain the exhaust brake.
 
Hey Mark. I thought of something. Try putting the H&S back to stock. You could go ahead and try the exhaust brake on stock just for chits. Then reinstall the tune file.
 
Snedge said:
Hey Mark. I thought of something. Try putting the H&S back to stock. You could go ahead and try the exhaust brake on stock just for chits. Then reinstall the tune file.
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Won't it throw a conniption fit because its deleted?
 
It'll throw codes, but it's not going to blow up or anything. The codes may not even derate it right away. It's worth a shot.
 
Got Smoke? said:
Sure write me a check for $2500 so I can go buy a turbo smart guy:umno:
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lol, or you can keep fussing with it and troubleshooting it, removing it and cleaning it, etc. until you realize it's toast and have to replace it... reman units are getting up close to $2k these days.

a used HE351 and 5.9CR manifold shouldn't set you back more than $600 or so...
 
FWIW I can provide a Holset VG turbo replacement for 1650.00.
 
I'm betting the slide collar is jamming up against a bunch of soot.

My typical break-free procedure is repeated 0-100mph full load acceleration runs...

we had a truck that completely plugged the filter and the entire exhaust path was caked with soot. the VGT had a very limited sweep. it was stuck open. When the truck came in, it would barely start and would rough idle for about 3-4 seconds before it shut down.

The truck would POUR black smoke at the lightest throttle input. I had to manually shift the truck out to red line to be able to maintain any boost and not send EGT to the moon.

It took about twenty minutes of just putting as much load as I could put on it over and over and over and over before it would finally actuate the VGT enough and the soot was burnt/blown out of it that it would accelerate normally and not black smoke.

I didn't dare touch the exhaust brake button lest it get stuck in the closed position as they're prone to do!!!!

You can try the factory Dodge cleaning procedure (which will cost you $200-300 in tools/fluids) and/or remove the turbo, remove the exhaust housing, and clean the collar/slide of caked up soot. We don't do that on customer trucks because you'll charge them for an R&R and physical de-soot, and it may only work for a day or two before it hangs up again. You'll only eat the labor on that so many times before you adopt Dodge and Cummins remedy procedure which is "replace turbo".

But as the owner of the truck, a manual cleaning might help.

You can't just putt around in 6.7 and expect the turbo to work flawlessly... if they never see any heat, they're going to stick. People delete them so that they can putt around and idle them all day without clogging the filter, but they fail to realize that if the turbo never sees that sweet 1500* regen heat (or some good heavy load towing or haul-assing) to burn off the soot, it's going to stick eventually.
 
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Scooter's Roofing said:
lol, or you can keep fussing with it and troubleshooting it, removing it and cleaning it, etc. until you realize it's toast and have to replace it... reman units are getting up close to $2k these days.

a used HE351 and 5.9CR manifold shouldn't set you back more than $600 or so...
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I'm attempting to trouble shoot it that's why I'm here asking for help not "oh its junk throw a bigger turbo on"

I want to eliminate every possible problem because it runs great like it is, just no exhaust brake function which I would love to have to save on service brakes and the occasional towing I do. I have no plans to hot rod this truck, it has to stay dependable for me, my wife, and kids.

Like I said above if it did need replacement I would be replacing it with an improved VGT. Even if I can't fix the exhaust brake portion I'll still run it till it dies.

Thanks everybody for your input its truly appreciated!

Snedge said:
FWIW I can provide a Holset VG turbo replacement for 1650.00.
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I have you on speed dial my friend! :rockwoot:
 
Scooter's Roofing said:
I'm betting the slide collar is jamming up against a bunch of soot.

My typical break-free procedure is repeated 0-100mph full load acceleration runs...

we had a truck that completely plugged the filter and the entire exhaust path was caked with soot. the VGT had a very limited sweep. it was stuck open. When the truck came in, it would barely start and would rough idle for about 3-4 seconds before it shut down.

The truck would POUR black smoke at the lightest throttle input. I had to manually shift the truck out to red line to be able to maintain any boost and not send EGT to the moon.

It took about twenty minutes of just putting as much load as I could put on it over and over and over and over before it would finally actuate the VGT enough and the soot was burnt/blown out of it that it would accelerate normally and not black smoke.

I didn't dare touch the exhaust brake button lest it get stuck in the closed position as they're prone to do!!!!

You can try the factory Dodge cleaning procedure (which will cost you $200-300 in tools/fluids) and/or remove the turbo, remove the exhaust housing, and clean the collar/slide of caked up soot. We don't do that on customer trucks because you'll charge them for an R&R and physical de-soot, and it may only work for a day or two before it hangs up again. You'll only eat the labor on that so many times before you adopt Dodge and Cummins remedy procedure which is "replace turbo".

But as the owner of the truck, a manual cleaning might help.

You can't just putt around in 6.7 and expect the turbo to work flawlessly... if they never see any heat, they're going to stick. People delete them so that they can putt around and idle them all day without clogging the filter, but they fail to realize that if the turbo never sees that sweet 1500* regen heat (or some good heavy load towing or haul-assing) to burn off the soot, it's going to stick eventually.
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I completely agree and understand everything you said above, and that's exactly what I told my friend when he originally purchased the truck!

Turn that brake on EVERY time you start the truck.... he said when he got the H&S MM that it did it every time he started the truck which it does.

I'm starting to wonder if Jeff's onto something....somehow the H&S software made the brake quit working because if it was sooted up wouldn't it affect its ability to sweep when I step on the throttle?!

This truck literally runs GREAT other than the fact the exhaust brake doesn't function. If you step on the throttle it will GO and it gets out of its way pretty damn impressively for just having a single tuner on it in my personal opinion!

Will try setting it back to stock tonight like Jeff recommended once I get home and see if it makes any difference.
 
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