exhaust brake not working

Can you watch the desired and actual vg position on your monitor? To see if its even trying.
 
the H&S tune isn't going to make the brake quit working... it will block any and all turbo related codes, so if you've got a nice soot cake that's preventing it from closing, it's not going to trip any codes, etc.

But it won't magically stop commanding the exhaust brake out of nowhere

Just because you run your exhaust brake, it doesn't mean it's not going to stick. My buddy runs his E brake constantly, and his turbos still stick because most of his driving is done empty and the truck never sees 1000*

There will still be soot caked up around the collar even if you do use the brake. Obviously not using the brake will exacerbate the problem, but unless you get that joker HOT on the regular, you'll eventually stick the turbo one way or another.

JWhite, the MM doesn't display VGT PIDs, unfortunately. Need a Snap-On/equivalent, EFI V2, factory tool, etc.



I completely agree and understand everything you said above, and that's exactly what I told my friend when he originally purchased the truck!

Turn that brake on EVERY time you start the truck.... he said when he got the H&S MM that it did it every time he started the truck which it does.

I'm starting to wonder if Jeff's onto something....somehow the H&S software made the brake quit working because if it was sooted up wouldn't it affect its ability to sweep when I step on the throttle?!

This truck literally runs GREAT other than the fact the exhaust brake doesn't function. If you step on the throttle it will GO and it gets out of its way pretty damn impressively for just having a single tuner on it in my personal opinion!

Will try setting it back to stock tonight like Jeff recommended once I get home and see if it makes any difference.
 
the H&S tune isn't going to make the brake quit working... it will block any and all turbo related codes, so if you've got a nice soot cake that's preventing it from closing, it's not going to trip any codes, etc.

But it won't magically stop commanding the exhaust brake out of nowhere

Just because you run your exhaust brake, it doesn't mean it's not going to stick. My buddy runs his E brake constantly, and his turbos still stick because most of his driving is done empty and the truck never sees 1000*

There will still be soot caked up around the collar even if you do use the brake. Obviously not using the brake will exacerbate the problem, but unless you get that joker HOT on the regular, you'll eventually stick the turbo one way or another.

JWhite, the MM doesn't display VGT PIDs, unfortunately. Need a Snap-On/equivalent, EFI V2, factory tool, etc.

Dis means a lot OP. If turbo codes are blocked then the issue may have shown its face on a stock tune by now. As I mentioned typically the motor will not allow itself to overload and die. It will try and the protection in the motor will tell the ECM there is a mechanical issue in the VGT mech.



If the collar isn't coked with soot and oil then the vanes may have worn a groove in the normal operating position. ie. a truck that rarely uses e brake function will sit and operate within x amount of the vane which can wear the vanes. Leaving a small ridge the motor must attempt to over come which in most cases isn't possible. I have only seen such a thing on the HE561VE ISX turbochargers with half a million miles on them but it is entirely possible on a pickup truck that rarely ever saw the e brake used.
 
the H&S tune isn't going to make the brake quit working...

I agree with everything else you said except for this... I spoke with Jeff "Snedge" last week on the phone and he said he has seen multiple trucks that the H&S programing for some reason cause the EB to quit working. It cost's me nothing but some time to try it so I'm going to retune the truck to stock this afternoon after work just to see.

I bought this truck to have a truck I didn't have to tinker with all the time like my 12V I honestly don't want to pull the turbo and clean it but it appears I'm running out of solutions.

Doesn't the actuator do a sweep when you turn the key on? I have a friend with a Snap on Scanner may need to swing by and see what it says.
 
You've become cranky in your old age.


I'm not the first to get tired of people recommend the EXACT opposite of what I'm asking Hooker. Either help me or move along I just bought a truck I don't exactly have $2500 to throw away on a new turbo. :bang:kick:
 
Hate to break it to you, but buying a 188k mile 8 year old truck isn't exactly the way to get something you "don't have to tinker with". Hopefully luck is on your side, and this very minor problem is all you have.
 
Hate to break it to you, but buying a 188k mile 8 year old truck isn't exactly the way to get something you "don't have to tinker with". Hopefully luck is on your side, and this very minor problem is all you have.

I agree with you on that I know its not "a nothing required truck".... but its a whole lot less than my 12V. I can just get in this one turn the key and go..... 12V its always what's gonna be next after 10 years of hard life with me and being a former pulling truck. :hehe: LOL
 
Ok so uninstalled the H&S and went for a very short drive still doesn't seem like its working and I got these codes which I'm sure are probably all emissions related. Going to take it on a little longer drive later just to make sure before I reinstall the H&S tune. Taking it by my buddy's shop to get it scanned with a Snap On scanner monday.

981BE06C-212A-435F-BC3B-992F499A9D19.jpg


DDD56557-AF36-47BB-86D8-5B8442D9132E.jpg
 
Box 366, eff the vgt, eff the exhaust brake.

You, Sir, have lost your dayum mind. LOL

I'm betting the slide collar is jamming up against a bunch of soot.

My typical break-free procedure is repeated 0-100mph full load acceleration runs...

See there....I wasn't joking.

I told him to load a trailer with about 12 tons, hit a down hill in tow/haul, and let her blow it out. LOL

I still say it is just sooted up. It might require a disassembly and cleaning but I highly doubt it is broke. $.02
 
I still say it is just sooted up. It might require a disassembly and cleaning but I highly doubt it is broke. $.02

At this point I've done almost everything that can be done without removing the turbo.

Cleaned the EBP sensor and line
Uninstalled H&S and drove for 15 miles then reinstalled
Pulled #37 fuse under the hood... head some movement when reinstalling sounded like it had to do with the throttle valve in the intake horn?

Going today after work to have a friend hook up his Snap On scan tool and see if we can see anything with that.

Going to see if I can round up something heavy to drag around next weekend.
 
Honestly wouldn't take more than a couple hours to pull the turbo and yank the housing off.
 
I doubt dragging anything around will help if it has been babied for 100K and never opened up or heated up good. Probably gonna take manual disassembly and cleaning. $.02
 
Not sure if these He351vw are anything like the He561 on an ISX but DO NOT REMOVE the motor assembly from the turbo. On an Isx this means you need to recal the motor.
 
Not sure if these He351vw are anything like the He561 on an ISX but DO NOT REMOVE the motor assembly from the turbo. On an Isx this means you need to recal the motor.

you are exactly right, unless you have the software its a crap shoot.
 
I told him to load a trailer with about 12 tons, hit a down hill in tow/haul, and let her blow it out. LOL

I still say it is just sooted up. It might require a disassembly and cleaning but I highly doubt it is broke. $.02

I doubt dragging anything around will help if it has been babied for 100K and never opened up or heated up good. Probably gonna take manual disassembly and cleaning. $.02


dafuq?! *bdh*:what::kick: Contradict yourself much Jory?
 
That's what happens when you cross 40 and wake up each day in a different world. Are you done goofing off yet? Jerk that SOB.
 
That's not age. That's the subconscious desire to be anywhere but Oklahoma causing those delusions.
 
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