Filled block & Head... Pros/Cons??

Fireman450

Fireman450

Daring to be diffrent!!
Joined
Nov 24, 2007
Messages
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What are the benefits of filling a block and a head?
I know it would put me in the 3.0 class bc i know most 2.6 classes dont allow it.
Any downfalls to it? Pit drive ability is my main concern.

Thanks to all
 
Block: pros- makes it stiffer, absorbs harmonics, reinforces cylinder walls and deck.
cons- heavier, retains heat longer. if you use cement filler, when it finally cracks, it creates a weak spot that may cause the block to crack prematurely.

Head: pros- gives you more room for port work.
cons- valve seats will crack quickly, takes a lot longer to cool down.

I've had good luck with running water through the head, it helps cool off between runs and seems to keep the valves sealed up longer.
I have seen where a couple of the tractor guys had there heads filled with aluminum, but with the new Hamilton head I wouldn't bother with it.
 
use epoxy, it bonds to the block/head and has the same expansion ratio. Use a good valve material and open your tolerances up to take the extra heat if you plan on multiple runs in a night.
 
Fireman450 said:
What are the benefits of filling a block and a head?
I know it would put me in the 3.0 class bc i know most 2.6 classes dont allow it.
Any downfalls to it? Pit drive ability is my main concern.

Thanks to all
Click to expand...
You wont be able to drive hardly at all. It will need to be towed every were.
SuperSonic said:
I've had good luck with running water through the head, it helps cool off between runs and seems to keep the valves sealed up longer.
.
Click to expand...

This is how mine is done.
 
What about if a person filled just the block 1/2 to 3/4 full?
 
How do you get around the oil cooler? Do you just fill the block up and give it some time to set then pull the oil cooler out of it?
 
I don't use the oil cooler but if you want to leave it in place, use masking or duct tape to tape off the finned area. After the filler is set up, you should be able to remove it. Might not want to use a good one just in case.
 
Thanks Chris, I'll keep that inmind. I still haven't made up my mind if i'm going to do it or not. I don't know how hot it would get driving it from the trailer to the starting line and back around. A 20k Kubota is out of my budget!
 
I filled my block up to the top
Of the deck, I used cardboard to wall off the oil cooler.
I still run coolant throughout the head and oil cooler to remove heat.
I can drive the truck to and from the pits and even hot lap it a couple of times. After 300 passes the tops of the pistions were erroded down to the ring lands in a couple of areas. I think it was from the nitrous.

Malcolm
 
24VChevy said:
I filled my block up to the top
Of the deck, I used cardboard to wall off the oil cooler.
I still run coolant throughout the head and oil cooler to remove heat.
I can drive the truck to and from the pits and even hot lap it a couple of times. After 300 passes the tops of the pistions were erroded down to the ring lands in a couple of areas. I think it was from the nitrous.

Malcolm
Click to expand...

What was your oil temps? How do you run water through the cooler if the block is filled? My oil temp would be 180 after 1 pass and well over 200 if i had to run a second pass. The problem with a filled block is oil temps from not being able to cool down.
 
I used a inline electric pump to pump water through the head. I routed
Water to the bottom of the casting for the oil cooler and the outlet near the top of the casting. Oil temp never went above 150-160 unless I hot lapped it a few times. Then it would hit over 200. The cool thing is I could run the water pump and cool it down.
The transmission in the new car has a coolant running in the oil pan too cool it.

Malcolm
 
That is good info Malcolm. I have been trying to figure out a way to make that work
 
How loose did you run the rings? How about the bearings? I keep scuffing pistons and I'm guessing going to a filled block won't help.
 
I think around .009 or .010 thou ptw clearance bottom end on the loose side of spec. Never had any issues with bearings or scuffing.

Malcolm
 
joefarmer said:
How loose did you run the rings? How about the bearings? I keep scuffing pistons and I'm guessing going to a filled block won't help.
Click to expand...

I run .035 ring gap on the top ring and .030 on the second. How loose are you running the bore?
 
We run 12 on the bore with forged pistons, a little more with cast.
Rod and main bearings get about one and a half extra but we have them DGFL coated which brings back about half a thou. Run oil at 125 psi @ 80° comes down to about 100 psi at the end of the run, 50wt cenpeco racing oil.
If you are worried about oil temps, you could always run it through an ice bath cooler.
 
DISTURBED said:
You wont be able to drive hardly at all. It will need to be towed every were.


This is how mine is done.
Click to expand...

If i was to just fill the block how would i need to route the water to get it to flow properly through the head?

I assume you can run a smaller radiator and also use an inline water pump?

Thanks
 
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