Fueling Problem...VP?

I just wondered. If the AIT sensor is already measuring air temp, why not use that info instead of another sensor? Just curious. Nothing is designed with common sense in mind! I'll check that connection. Thanks for the advice.
 
Timbeaux38 said:
Billy, you and 4x4Dually also may wanna clean your IAT sensors as well.
Click to expand...

I agree. The map sensor is being "boost fooled" above about 22psi, and is not really in the picture. There have been threads on this topic on various forums. No one that I have seen has come up with a fix.

Paul
 
paulb said:
I agree. The map sensor is being "boost fooled" above about 22psi, and is not really in the picture. There have been threads on this topic on various forums. No one that I have seen has come up with a fix.

Paul
Click to expand...

Well, that 22 is about where mine goes to crapola. Why does it run at WOT then? And to what extent does the IAT change the fueling? And why didn't this truck screw up like this when I first put the aftermarket stuff on it? It DOES get worse with time. Poop. I'm not happy to see no one has found a cure. Rats...rats...rats....:bang
 
Ok. Talked to Edge

For those inquiring minds, I spoke with Edge tech support and they want me to try two things.

First, they said untap the pump wire and see what that does. Normally the Juice changes timing and duration but the "tap" changes the pressure. Second, if no change, put the tap back on and unplug the MAP sensor and hook it back to the stock harness. Then see if the ECM responds normal in this config. It should defuel and not buck and jump like it is now.

I'll try these two things tonight if I can get to it and see what happens. Gator, you might try them too if you can and see if it helps you also. None of these would lend to it running normal at WOT, but I'll try it. Stay tuned.:pop:
 
jhurst said:
just keep it at WOT then dummy!:hehe:
Click to expand...

Ya, 10-4 you turkey. Maybe when this snow melts! I may wrench on the truck a little tonight if you want to swing by for a couple of barley pops and a test drive or three. You got my cell. Check that, today's my wife's B-day. Maybe tomorrow. I'll let you know. I don't want to get :banned: from the bedroom for working on my truck on a b-day! :kick: Heck, she's already pregnant, what can she do?:hehe: She also knows how to read this stuff, so, enough said...love you honey (to the wife)!!! :hehe: I thought I better put that in ( ) in case partsguy logged on. He could really run with that.
 
Tim> Ordered a new IAT sensor today, I figure after 160k+ it's due one LOL

4x4 dually> I'll try that this weekend and see what happens.
 
I got a buddy with the same damn problem. We just put a comp box on his truck this weekend. We were thinking that the lift pump maybe starving the injection pump. But we may have to try messing with the map sensor.
 
I unhooked my AIT sensor last night and put my DMM on it. It read about 8K ohms and it was about 40F in my shop. I hit it with a heat gun real slow and it dropped all the way to about 2K ohms and then I let it rise back as it cooled off. It seems to work, but I have no way of validating the range is correct. I just know it changes and that the wires are good back to the connector on the hood above the master cylinder. So, with that done, I think it works but I didn't chase the wire all the way to its destination.

Then, I un tapped the IP wire. I just cut the wire since I didn't feel the need to rip all the other crap out of the way to get the little screw tap off. I drove to work this morning and same sheet different day. If I get the boost to 25 psi and hold it on level "0", then bump the module to level "1" the engine goes to compete sheet. Bump it back to "0" and it clears up. That is wissin' me off.

I'll try the MAP sensor deal this weekend as well as call Edge back today. I also noticed that the replacement Juice module they sent me was built after my original one, but the version rev is older. My original was Ver 1.01 and the new one is Ver 1.00. I'm going to find out the difference....like it matters....they both run like sheet. I like the word sheet today. I saw a mod use it so I guess it is ok!:p

Got Diesel: I'm not saying that my LP is or isn't starving my IP, but I do have 13-14 psi normal (60-70 mph) and 10 psi min WOT. Maybe that isn't enough and I have to go to a campaign pump or holley blue, but I just don't know. Can we still stave them in volume and have good pressures? I'm electrical, not a fluid eng! :pop:

<edit> I also reset the TPS. No luck there either.
 
Last edited:
Got ya, ya you can still starve them, having pressure but no volume I do believe. It's like trying to pump a volume that should be going through a fire hose through a garden hose. Sure you may have lots more pressure in the garden hose, but you have no gpm at all.

I think on my buddies truck we are gonna put a Holley blue pump on it. And maybe a big line kit and see if that takes care of the problem.
 
Got Diesel said:
Got ya, ya you can still starve them, having pressure but no volume I do believe. It's like trying to pump a volume that should be going through a fire hose through a garden hose. Sure you may have lots more pressure in the garden hose, but you have no gpm at all.

I think on my buddies truck we are gonna put a Holley blue pump on it. And maybe a big line kit and see if that takes care of the problem.
Click to expand...

Well, I can't say that the problem has gotten worse, but it sure hasn't gotten any better since I put on my Vulcan big line and relo kit. I am still using the stock pump but it is back on the frame where it is cool and hopefully less vibrated the heck out of. My stock pressures were 13 idle, 10-11 normal, and 4-5 WOT, and with the kit they went to 16-17 idel, 13-14 normal, and 10-11 WOT. Maybe I still need more fuel? It is all 1/2 line with the banjo bolts deleted and my GOD how much FUEL DO I NEED? I still have the stock draw straw, so that is the bottle neck right now. But, you know what, it runs like a bat our of hell and seemless when you tromp the soot pedal to the floor, so I can't be running out of fuel or it would choke on the top end. So, axe that idea.....
 
Last edited:
out of curiosity, where is your wastegate set to open?
 
Wastegate is set to just over 40 psi. It usually pegs the monitor at 43 when at WOT hard. Max boost is set to 45 on the Edge so it starts to backdown a little when it gets to the top, but not a whole lot.
 
Here are some resistance values for the IAT sensor to compare to.

http://www.dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/sensors/IAT/clean.htm


Looks like your sensor isnt working correctly? (not saying that is your problem though)

head on down to the cummins dealer and pick one up.....its only 45mins away.......and get me a pump while youre there:shake:
 
Right now on his truck his idle pressure is about 13 or so at idle for about 25 seconds then drops down to 0psi and will remain there. So there could be a problem with the lift pump. I have been told that the pressure should remain constant at all times, or remain pressurized at some pressure the whole time.
 
jhurst said:
Here are some resistance values for the IAT sensor to compare to.

http://www.dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/sensors/IAT/clean.htm


Looks like your sensor isnt working correctly? (not saying that is your problem though)

head on down to the cummins dealer and pick one up.....its only 45mins away.......and get me a pump while youre there:shake:
Click to expand...

Well, I guess I'm the dumbest a** in captivity. I thought the AIT was the sensor under the grill that would measure the temp of the air coming into the intake (breather and junk). I should have done my homework. What a DA. :doh: I'll have to check that actual sensor tonight. I've pulled some stupid junk, but that is crazy. I owe you a BBQ sandwich at Bad Brad's!!! That was probably the stupid overhead console sensor.
 
Last edited:
Got Diesel said:
Right now on his truck his idle pressure is about 13 or so at idle for about 25 seconds then drops down to 0psi and will remain there. So there could be a problem with the lift pump. I have been told that the pressure should remain constant at all times, or remain pressurized at some pressure the whole time.
Click to expand...

I have been 'learned' buy folks that the LP pressure should never get below 8 psi or so or you'll fry the IP. 0 is definately a problem!
 
Just more info....

I just got this from Doug at smokingdiesel.com It may help us narrow it down a little.
---------------------------------------------------
I would say the following are likely causes……

IAT could be off causing the timing to be over advanced. This will cause a buck….. (IAT reads too cold)

Injectors or leaky connector tubes can cause this.

Edge Box can also cause a buck due to timing and or a fueling surge.

The best advice is to get it too a good diagnostic technician, that can put the scan tool on and graph out all of the engine parameters when the problem is occurring. The surge should show up on the graph’s and help narrow down the cause.

They can also look at things like IAT, and cam sensor, and etc…..
 
natfrost33

I agree with pulling the box out even though it is a pain in the ass. Also i would really think about getting the injectors pop off tested. That is the only thing i can think of right now. Let me do some more thinking on this, and i will get back with you.:bang
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top