I need a 12V recipe for my build.....

jaybuller said:
Ill throw you some stuff here.... I would do a s300g over a small s400, keep the 12v head on there. put arp new age studs to hold the new headgasket down. put 4k springs in the pump, 181 dv's some 5x12 or 5x14 injectors in it. I would leave the stock cam in it. For 500 it is unessisary and the small twins will spool just fine and cool just fine at 500hp. With this setup it would tow fine and cool, be able to pull at the race track good and be reliable. I would personally go with a 5 speed over the 47rh for reliability issues and i dont race (i have a race car for that) so i dont care how fast i shift into the next gear. Id do a 3250# dd clutch to hold the power. If you are going to go auto i would deffinatly have goerend build the tranny for you.
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x2, except skip the 625's. No need for $1000 studs where stock head bolts or reg head studs will suffice.

Signature600 said:
.I'll ask again, what is the advantage of 24v's at 500hp?

Chris
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It makes your wallet shrink twice as fast as a comparable 12v?
 
I'll throw in my .02:
Build the tranny, intake/exhaust.
If you only want 500hp, go with a single 62/68/13SS. If you want twins, do stock over an HT3B, it'll push you to 600-650hp.
Remove the fuel plate and modify the AFC for full travel, then tune the AFC.
4K GSK and 60lb valve springs.
5x.014 injectors.
18* timing.
A set of studs, doesn't need to be the big fancy ARP625's, the standard ones will do fine.

About that comment about having a 1000hp 12 valve and not being able to pull a trailer, give me another couple years to finish building and I'll show you one that does. I was towing farm equipment around all the time at 500hp, and I will after this winter when I hope to be in the 550-600 range.
 
loganp said:
I'll throw in my .02:
Build the tranny, intake/exhaust.
If you only want 500hp, go with a single 62/68/13SS. If you want twins, do stock over an HT3B, it'll push you to 600-650hp.
Remove the fuel plate and modify the AFC for full travel, then tune the AFC.
4K GSK and 60lb valve springs.
5x.014 injectors.
18* timing.
A set of studs, doesn't need to be the big fancy ARP625's, the standard ones will do fine.

About that comment about having a 1000hp 12 valve and not being able to pull a trailer, give me another couple years to finish building and I'll show you one that does. I was towing farm equipment around all the time at 500hp, and I will after this winter when I hope to be in the 550-600 range.
Click to expand...




Didn't you have a few melted pistons and spun bearings?


And no, you cannot tow with 1000 HP and use it. It is physically impossible for a 5.9 liter engine to put out 1000 HP reliably and have reasonable internal temperature. Anyone ever wonder why big class 8 tractor-trailers have big 13-15 liter motors and make just 500 HP? If they were turned up hot, they would not be able to tow without overheating.

You might be able to use 600 HP towing with a 12 valve if you have efficient twins that move a lot of air and spray gallons and gallons of water through the motor to help with cooling. You might even need to add a secondary cooler for the engine coolant system, a secondary cooler for the transmission oil, and a cooler for the rear end fluid.
 
loganp said:
I'll throw in my .02:
Build the tranny, intake/exhaust.
If you only want 500hp, go with a single 62/68/13SS. If you want twins, do stock over an HT3B, it'll push you to 600-650hp.
Remove the fuel plate and modify the AFC for full travel, then tune the AFC.
4K GSK and 60lb valve springs.
5x.014 injectors.
18* timing.
A set of studs, doesn't need to be the big fancy ARP625's, the standard ones will do fine.

About that comment about having a 1000hp 12 valve and not being able to pull a trailer, give me another couple years to finish building and I'll show you one that does. I was towing farm equipment around all the time at 500hp, and I will after this winter when I hope to be in the 550-600 range.
Click to expand...


:hehe: :hehe: :hehe:

How much weight are you pulling to need 500hp, let alone 1000hp?

I'm towing damn near 40K Gross weight with 380RWHP, and it will do WHATEVER I want. Any more is not needed.


I still want to know why the OP feels 24v is needed at 500hp...and what advantages he sees in that head?
I know of only one, air....and the little extra air is not worth the hassle at only 500hp...not starting from scratch anyway.
Lots of disadvantages though....
Chris
 
Signature600 said:
:hehe: :hehe: :hehe:

How much weight are you pulling to need 500hp, let alone 1000hp?

I'm towing damn near 40K Gross weight with 380RWHP, and it will do WHATEVER I want. Any more is not needed.


I still want to know why the OP feels 24v is needed at 500hp...and what advantages he sees in that head?
I know of only one, air....and the little extra air is not worth the hassle at only 500hp...not starting from scratch anyway.
Lots of disadvantages though....
Chris
Click to expand...

Good points. I've got to agree with you Chris. "Real towing" demands far less than 500. The reliable 500 HP towing setup is only practical when you don't really tow LOL.
 
Signature600 said:
No, I read it...but if it's not all about power, then why did you ask which setup to build?

If you know so much, then just do it!! I've built 12v's that run and tow...and tow much heavier than you are looking to do...I'll ask again, what is the advantage of 24v's at 500hp?

Chris
Click to expand...

The reasons I would want a 24v head is because....

a. I have 24v injectors from my previous truck
b. I have a 24v head
c. I like the looks of the 24v head under the hood
d. I have custom powdercoated 24v valve cover

So, now the question is...if I did not lose reliability/tunability would it be worthwhile to use a 24v head? I realize there is no advantage to the 24v head...but maybe it would have lower EGT's due to the fact it flows more air in stock configuration...IDK??? This is why I am asking these questions. If my questions bother you so much, feel free to ignore them. :bigsmile:
 
Snedge said:
Good points. I've got to agree with you Chris. "Real towing" demands far less than 500. The reliable 500 HP towing setup is only practical when you don't really tow LOL.
Click to expand...

I agree, you don't need 500HP to tow. I am looking to have as MUCH reliable HP as possible and still be able to tow on occasion. I do realize there will issues with coolant temp while towing with big HP as well. I am thinking 500-550HP may be the limit???
 
I'm thinking that buying pistons and custom lines just so you can use your 24V injectors is a bad move.
 
1fstdsl said:
The reasons I would want a 24v head is because....

a. I have 24v injectors from my previous truck
b. I have a 24v head
c. I like the looks of the 24v head under the hood
d. I have custom powdercoated 24v valve cover

So, now the question is...if I did not lose reliability/tunability would it be worthwhile to use a 24v head? I realize there is no advantage to the 24v head...but maybe it would have lower EGT's due to the fact it flows more air in stock configuration...IDK??? This is why I am asking these questions. If my questions bother you so much, feel free to ignore them. :bigsmile:
Click to expand...

24v injectors can be a Pain to setup for the p-pump
24v's eat valve seals
24v like to pop the heads off valves


Sounds like you've already talked yourself into it...the turbo you choose will have way more effect on towing and airflow than the 12v or 24v head...figure out whether you want to tow with NO PROBLEMS AT ALL, or you want 500hp. People will tell you you can tow with almost any charger, and you can...but some people's version of towing is very different than others.


I'm just trying to help you, help yourself...you're the one who said you've searched for hours...all this info is EASILY available by searching. 12v vs 24v has been beat to death, as well as turbos, cams, etc, etc, etc.

The only part that bothers me, is you said you searched....that, and most of your reasons for wanting a 24v head is kinda dumb
Chris
 
If you must have a 24v head you could at least use a CR head! More air flow without porting.
 
Snedge said:
I'm thinking that buying pistons and custom lines just so you can use your 24V injectors is a bad move.
Click to expand...

I agree, that would be stupid, but I am planning on buying a 12v and rebuilding it anyway. Actually I am trying to talk a friend into selling his entire 1994 truck with 400K on it. He bought it from my bro-in-law for $2,200, runs great....but it is just sitting with a bad clutch.

Looks like I will just stick with 12v head tho...simple is better.
 
Sell all those 24V parts and you would have more money for 12v parts... and a flux capacitor.
 
Big Blue24 said:
Didn't you have a few melted pistons and spun bearings?
Click to expand...

Nope. I just burned the rings out and scuffed the number five cylinder wall. No spun bearings, no melted pistons.

Signature600 said:
How much weight are you pulling to need 500hp, let alone 1000hp?

I'm towing damn near 40K Gross weight with 380RWHP, and it will do WHATEVER I want. Any more is not needed.
Click to expand...

Shall I rephrase: Some day I have a 1000hp 12 valve that can still tow. I got the impression from the OP's post that he thought a 1000hp 12 valve would be hard to tow with as in hard to drive or unstreetable.
 
loganp said:
Shall I rephrase: Some day I have a 1000hp 12 valve that can still tow. I got the impression from the OP's post that he thought a 1000hp 12 valve would be hard to tow with as in hard to drive or unstreetable.
Click to expand...

I'd like to hear how you're planning that, and how much weight you will be able to tow...

Chris
 
The level of stupid here is high...

If you hunt out of it much I'd go with a single. Simple/reliable. Why reinvent the wheel for 500ish hp?
 
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