I need a 12V recipe for my build.....

My thoughts...

Ok, please don't tell me to do a search....I've spend hours researching:D

Er, ok let's see what this guy is asking..

I am looking at building what I consider to be the ultimate truck, but I need a little input from you guys. The truck is going to be a 2004 F350 crewcab 4x4. The idea is for this truck to be kind of an all around, do everything truck, and still be reliable...so I am not looking for crazy horsepower.

Do everything, 500hp, reliable, simple, not crazy HP, tow, etc, etc...why didn't I think of that...

I have gone back forth trying to decide between a manual vs auto. I would like to have a built Goerend auto, but I don't want to mess with electronics/controllers etc.

Don't know which motor to use, don't know which transmission, don't know if he spent any time looking around

I have no experience with the p7100

No experience so I'll just start mix matching and slapping parts together in a Ford with I don't know which transmission

I need to drive the truck daily, pull approx 10-12K a few times a year, perhaps go to the race track when I get the itch and take it hunting in the mountains. I was hoping to get around 400-500+HP, ... Is this possible, being how I will not be able to "turn down" the power?

Ultimate everything, daily driver, don't know how to turn power down, tow 12000lbs. I'm thinking for sure didn't do a search, at least not enough

Also, I kind of like the idea of having a p-pumped 24V (mostly because I love the look of the 24V head under the hood),

Ok, if I wasnt sure at the beginning I 'm sure now: This guy is clueless

What size twins, plate (if any), pump mods, etc?

Ya, why would you need a plate to tow 12000lbs with an unknown motor, unknown trans, unknown gear ratio, unknown everything...

Thanks!

Hit the books and come back later. Otherwise you're going to get crap like this. It's competition diesel not we like to sit around and bench race ultimate truck setups for bragging rights. Right now you look like an idiot who wants to run a 24v because he has a powdercoated valve cover.

-Dustin-
 
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My thoughts...



Hit the books and come back later. Otherwise you're going to get crap like this. It's competition diesel not we like to sit around and bench race ultimate truck setups for bragging rights. Right now you look like an idiot who wants to run a 24v because he has a powdercoated valve cover.

-Dustin-

Ok, thanks for straightening out this bench racer....guess I am way out of my league.
 
Never had one issue with my twins in the 7 years I had them on my truck.
Most people don't.

I'm just looking at it from the stand point of more things that could fail out in the middle of nowhere, when it's cold and getting dark, with no cell service... I'm somewhat of a pessimistLOL
 
Seems to be a lot of those in here....
Hey, I've had to fix stuff in the mud and ice with a flashlight to get back home. If you mention hunting as a use I default to the simplest way...

Besides, 500 is easily attainable with a small single.
 
Hey, I've had to fix stuff in the mud and ice with a flashlight to get back home. If you mention hunting as a use I default to the simplest way...

Besides, 500 is easily attainable with a small single.

BUT, is it a powdercoated single??

Chris
 
I'm sure glad i don't have one of those stupid 24V p-pump things that break all the time, don't tow as good as a 12V,and don't make any power.
 
I'm sure glad i don't have one of those stupid 24V p-pump things that break all the time, don't tow as good as a 12V,and don't make any power.

Something, something, something, Dark Side....

-Dustin-
 
I'm curious where the expense of parts comes in having a ppumped 24v is so much higher than a 12v other than the initial cost to convert. Injectors are simple (unless you just have to have custom ones), valve seats drop on late model heads (01 and earlier have the seats built in), only ever heard of one truck popping the heads off the valves, iirc valve springs are cheaper, cams are the same.
 
12 valve with 150hp injectors, 3/4 cut dv's, 64mm borgwarner turbo,advance the timing to around 24 degrees, 4k gov springs, stud the head, 60lb valve springs, shave the fuel plate and slide it forward or just take it out but take a chance on it runing away, cold air intake,south bend or valaire double disk. if you wanna get expensive and big in building it go ahead and geta shied monster pump. but with 5k springs like it comes with you might want to stud the bottem end and possibly have it balanced if you wanna go all out. then cams and etc. you can make a 12 valve one of the meanest machines on the road. you can take a stock one and do the free little tricks and make them run as good any stock common rail or one with a small program.
 
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