John Deere Hy-Gard, what filter?

Moparmatty said:
Isn't there two different Hy-Guards? Which one is everyone using?
Click to expand...

3 types got to love Jd.

Low-Viscosity Hy-Gard™

Bio Hy-Gard™ II

Hy-Gard™ Hydraulic/Transmission Oil

I run low and mix regular hy-gard in my tractor not sure about trucks
 
Hy-Gard™ Hydraulic/Transmission Oil here. It is higher viscosity than the "low viscosity" which is common sense.
 
Ive used Napa 68 weight and 45 weight, and I've also tried 50/50 atf with both. It's been long enough that my memory is a little fuzzy but I really like the straight 68 weight when I was running my s300 66mm turbo. I run straight ATF now that I have a large turbo that needs a loose converter.
 
Just a quick observation update: This high viscosity (regular) Hy-Gard is alot more enjoyable to drive as the converter has definitely tightened and the shock from fluid coupling to lock up has decreased. Also, fluid coupling at wot definitely seems to be more efficient although it is slightly difficult to tell given the switch from a single charger to the same single with a primary under it.

Further, the trans temps seem to always stay 180 or below with most of the temps being between 170-and 160. 180 only occurrs with prolonged idle periods in gear and when offroading on the beach.

I have not noticed any noise from the pump when the fluid is cold but the coldes temps this stuff has seen since being in my trans is low 60s. Here is what I have noticed however, if the truck has sat for a few days and the fluid has cooled off to presumably ambient temperatures when I drop the truck in drive/reverse it takes about 30 seconds before idle rpms move the truck quickly. I would assume this is the high viscocity of the fluid when cold not traveling through the trans so easily. It literally only takes the 30 seconds or so in gear at idle to go away (this happens when I back the truck out of the garage waiting for the garage door to close). I have noticed the clutch in the converter locks up harder when the fluid is colder than when I ran the trans with the standard trans fluid being cold. Also, I have noticed when switching on OD the shift from 3rd to OD is quicker when the fluid is cold with the hy-gard vs cold std trans fluid.

In any event just a few observations.
 
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I put NAPA's version of JD Hyguard in my stock auto a couple weeks ago. Shifts are a little firmer, and lock up is a little more pronounced. Nick, Ive noticed the same thing with cold starts, dont really feel the shift into reverse or drive and takes a little more throttle to get the truck moving.
 
I have the same thing going on but I might try to drop a quart and and a quart of ATF. I really need a shift kit or VB.
 
If you idle the truck for 20 seconds in neutral, I'll bet your slow idle take off in reverse or drive will go away. Thick fluid takes a little longer to fill the converter and neutral is the fastest way to charge all the fluid circuits.
 
Mine does the same thing if I go straight to gear when its cold, but a quick 5 seconds in neutral to get the fluid flowing and I'm good to go.
 
After reading this thread I am confused...

Transmission temperature issues usually means something else is creating them.On our Dodges most temp issues come from a failing or stuck open bypass valve which is located on the top of the trans cooler.This does not allow the fluid to go through the cooler and will create temp issues all the time.The CR trucks are notorious for this happening.Most of the performance trans builder all recommend Dextron 3 and a bottle of Lube Guard or some type of synthetic.I am not sure I would want to compromise my built trans to fluids that are not approved,but,again thats just my thoughts as I would rather correct the problem that is creating the heat.

So then I guess my question for those who run this stuff is this.......WHY?.
 
Craig at Goerend agreed that trying this would be just fine, in other words I bounced the idea off of him. The reasons why have been stated in this thread among others, the higher viscosity tightens the converter which some, like myself, are after.
 
Ok

Just confused as to why you would want a tighter converter with a set of twins.Tighter would be a deterrent to spooling the chargers on the line drag racing the way you like too.Looser would make more sense with a twins equipped truck,but,what do I know.Using this to me seems like a band-aid patch on a possible issue that needs a tourniquet.
 
your torque peak is a lot lower with twins due to the small charger, its really easy to spool with a big charger then run out of room up top. along with higher tranny temps while doing so.
tighter converter flashes lower, which you want with limited rpm..

nothing wrong with using fluid to help tune the converter, ssometimes the difference of 150 rpm in stall is too great with certain setups.
 
The twins work very very well with the way the converter acts currently. I always wanted to pull some stall rpm out after going from the previous 75mm 87mm turbine single to the 62mm single and now secondary.

I talked to Steve Drummond down the street as well about this, they use fluid to tune stall speed as well and I would say Drummond Race Cars is a bit more qualified than anyone in this thread to provide advice. But, like Hammer said, what do I know.... :p
 
I am amazed at how you use all your "experts" to vainly make me look like I have zero idea of what I am talking about Nick.All I had was questions and as a owner who runs bigger chargers than you and I was just curious.

What I am amazed at is why try something that has already been proven as not worth the effort,but,again,what do I know I just bought my first diesel pickup and have never rebuilt any Chrysler Transmissions.
 
Relax buddy, id jus be da intraweb. The input regarding the cooler is quite good. Are these bypasses installed on 12 valves?
 
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