Roll Cages

SPEAKSUP

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I have seen pics of a few Reg cab's with just roll bars. Without any rear support bars. All the tubing was in the cab.

I was wondering if anyone had any pics of that. I can't find it. I think it was a Red Reg cab with a short bed. Tried searching didn't find it.

Just trying to get an idea of ho0w I want the bar. I do plan on drag racing it soon. I want that added extra saftey not looking for 10's so I don't need a full cage.
 
Without the rear bars you have to do a full cage (aka sub 10.0) inside the cab.
 
According to NADM it's only for 11.49 and quicker. Still kinda lost on the rules As to where the bar need's to be. I was just thinking a 4 point without the rear supports. Just Sidebar's and the Roll bar. I have been trying to find that truck it was for sale Bar cage was all internal no rear supports exiting the cab.
 
Roll Bar: Roll bars are mandatory in all vehicles running 11.49 or quicker. All roll bars must be within six inches of the rear or side of
the drivers head, extend in height at least three inches above the drivers helmet with driver in normal driving position, and be at least
as wide as the drivers shoulders or within one inch of the drivers door. The roll bar must be adequately supported or
cross-braced to prevent forward or lateral collapse. Rear braces must be of the same diameter and wall thickness as the roll bar and
intersect with the roll bar at a point not more than five inches from the top of the roll bar. A sidebar must be included on the drivers
side and must pass the driver at a point midway between the shoulder and elbow. Swing-out sidebars are permitted. All roll bars must
have in their construction a cross bar for seat bracing and as the shoulder-harness attachment point; the cross bar must be installed no
more than four inches below, and not above, the drivers shoulders or be welded to the side bar.
All vehicles with OEM frame (i.e., pickup truck where body bolts to frame rails) must have the roll bar welded or bolted to the frame.
Installation of frame connectors on unibody vehicles does not constitute a frame; therefore, it is not necessary to have the roll bar
attached to the frame.

This is according to NADM now I thought I would just have the main bar go to the top of the Cab. I guess I can't do that with this?
 
I would also look at NHRA rules. That way you can run any anywhere without any problems.
 
If its a reg cab and its going quiker then 11.50 the bars must exit the cab in the rear and attach to the frame in the bed.
 
I was only planning on running Quick Diesel 12.0 seem's like the most people run. Plus still a street truck to me. I am on 35's also I don't want to go to Special wheel's or tires.
 
I was only planning on running Quick Diesel 12.0 seem's like the most people run. Plus still a street truck to me. I am on 35's also I don't want to go to Special wheel's or tires.

Well do whatever you want then, but keep in mind you're getting marginal at best safety improvement, if any. And you don't need it.
 
If your truck is still "street driven" like a DD then I would not suggest running a cage unless you have to have it (11.49 and quicker). A roll bar in a truck that is driven on the street is dangerous unless your riding around with your helmet on due to in the event of a crash your head can hit the roll bar causing more injury than a related crash would cause without a roll bar. There has been people in Street/Strip cars that get into accidents and end up killing them when they hit the roll bar. I am not saying this happens all the time just something to keep in mind.

Also as many have stated, a truck has to have the bars rearward no less than 5in from the main hoop. (Ext cab or 4 door trucks dont have exit the cab due to the room behind the driver area to tie into the frame.)
 
For NHRA rules as they apply to our trucks (not talking about door cars, altereds, dragsters, etc.), a roll bar is required from 11.49 to 10.00. A roll bar requires back bars. In our trucks, a roll cage can be used from 11.49 and quicker, and again in our trucks does not have to have back bars. A roll cage though has an extra bars inside the cab. A roll cage is generally less streetable, and in fact can be a safety issue without a helmet. A well designed roll bar is not a problem on the street nor is it a safety problem. Here are some pictures of the roll bar in my 05.

You have to look hard to see the main hoop in this pic:

2005_Dodge_Roll_Cage_Install_031.jpg


Here is the main hoop before the headliner and other trim pieces went back in:

2005_Dodge_Roll_Cage_Install_027.jpg


Here is a pic of the back bars from the bed:

2005_Dodge_Roll_Cage_Install_012.jpg



With this roll bar, and all the other required safety equipment, the truck is legal to 10.00 and still very streetable. The door bars are removeable (both sides). It has both the 5 point harness as well as the orginal DOT approved belts.

Hope this helps...
Paul
 
Thanks Paul I talking to a guy who we are setting up an appointment to see about a whole Cage. That way I don't have to drill into the cab. Now did you tie the main hoop straight into the frame? or did you weld it up to plates so you can take the cab off?

Beaver and Blaze have you ever rolled a vehicle? I didn't even roll my truck on the strip. There's a lot of weight going on the cab when they are upside down. Now imagine that on the strip say I roll the increased speed. I could die. If I was just at the pulls I wouldn't care I do plan to race this truck.

It's like a condom I'd rather carry it around and have it then need it and not have it.
 
Thanks Paul I talking to a guy who we are setting up an appointment to see about a whole Cage. That way I don't have to drill into the cab. Now did you tie the main hoop straight into the frame? or did you weld it up to plates so you can take the cab off?

It is welding to the frame without plates. Here is a pic of the "outriggers" that the main hoop is welded to:

2005_Dodge_Roll_Cage_Install_028.jpg


At the time we were putting the roll bar in, the NHRA division 6 tech inspector told me that I could not use plates unless it was a uni-body. That's not how I understand the rule book, but there is no way I was going to argue. If I ever need to remove the bed, I'll deal with it then.

Paul
 
What about cage/bar matterial and thickness??? I have seen some cages/bars out there in diesel trucks that I would say are very questionable... Make sure you build it using quality tubing (chrome moly) and use the proper diameter and thickness tube to be safe... It would be horrible to get in a bad accident and be speared by the very cage you thought was protecting you because it wasn't strong enough for your application!!!

Remeber our diesel trucks are much heavier than lightweight cars that are going similar speeds... would a small diameter bar support the weight of your truck on its lid in a violent wreck???
 
What about cage/bar matterial and thickness??? I have seen some cages/bars out there in diesel trucks that I would say are very questionable... Make sure you build it using quality tubing (chrome moly) and use the proper diameter and thickness tube to be safe... It would be horrible to get in a bad accident and be speared by the very cage you thought was protecting you because it wasn't strong enough for your application!!!

Remeber our diesel trucks are much heavier than lightweight cars that are going similar speeds... would a small diameter bar support the weight of your truck on its lid in a violent wreck???

This is why I thought about this. I know how heavy our truck's our when I rolled mine cab came real close to my head. This is why I want to do this. People think that I am crazy. This is added protection even with the main loop and sidebars for me. I don't plan on going faster then quick diesel. If I am to do that I need to build a full drag truck.

There will still be some support from the main loop and sidebar's incase of a unlikely event of a roll over.

I have seen quite a few of the same rollbar's driven on the street in Pre Runners out in Cali. They don't even have the weight and power they just want the added protection.
 
This is why I thought about this. I know how heavy our truck's our when I rolled mine cab came real close to my head. This is why I want to do this. People think that I am crazy. This is added protection even with the main loop and sidebars for me. I don't plan on going faster then quick diesel. If I am to do that I need to build a full drag truck.

There will still be some support from the main loop and sidebar's incase of a unlikely event of a roll over.

I have seen quite a few of the same rollbar's driven on the street in Pre Runners out in Cali. They don't even have the weight and power they just want the added protection.

One thing to consider... I believe (I am quite possibly wrong so look into it for yourself) and I have been told that if you cage or put in a roll bar it needs to conform to all applicable rules or you will not be allowed to run on NHRA tracks even if you are running slower than the speed requirements for a cage.

That is why I was saying to make sure it is fully up to the strict codes. And I am sure that is why Dennis suggested building it NHRA standards so that you can run any/everywhere!!

Good luck with it!
 
Beaver and Blaze have you ever rolled a vehicle? I didn't even roll my truck on the strip. There's a lot of weight going on the cab when they are upside down. Now imagine that on the strip say I roll the increased speed. I could die. If I was just at the pulls I wouldn't care I do plan to race this truck.

It's like a condom I'd rather carry it around and have it then need it and not have it.

No I have not, and I hear what you are saying about wanting it. I'm just saying either do a cage either style, or a bar with back bars if you are going to do anything. I got the impression at first you just wanted something like a single hoop like a convertible would have. I see what you mean now. Sorry for the confusion.

I put a full cage in my race truck even though I don't plan on running quicker than 10.0. 2" dia. .120 wall DOM, tig welded. Like paulb's bar, it is welded to outriggers, which are welded on the outboard side of the frame. I figured crashing at 133 wasn't much better than crashing at 135, so I sacrificed the weight.

894845312_ezJdw-L.jpg


894845088_2kVDp-L.jpg
 
I have rolled my blazer at the track. it had a full cage and only rolled onto the roof and slide about 1/2 track. I felt safe in my truck but after i rolled it about 130mph and slid on the roof for a while I really feel safe in it now. you can tell in the pic the roof caved in enough to hit the cage, then that is as far as it collapsed


blazerwreck4.jpg

Blazerwreck2.jpg
 
In our trucks, a roll cage can be used from 11.49 and quicker, and again in our trucks does not have to have back bars. A roll cage though has an extra bars inside the cab.
I believe these are the rules that apply
Steel-bodied pickup trucks (7.50 seconds and slower), roll cages are permitted with no back braces if the roll cage satisfies SFI 25.1E, 25.2, 25.4, or the roll cage consists of a four-point (door car) cage with a complete SFI 2.4B, 2.5B, 2.6, 2.7A dragster, SFI 10.2, 10.3 altered, or SFI 10.4 street roadster roll cage/driver's compartment incorporated into and attached to the four-point roll cage. An upper windshield bar is mandatory.

Non-steel-bodied pickup trucks (7.50 seconds and slower), roll cages are permitted with no back braces if the roll cage satisfies SFI 25.1E, 25.2, 25.4, or the roll cage satisfies the requirements for SFI 2.4B, 2.5B, 2.6, 2.7A dragster, SFI 10.2, 10.3 altered, or SFI 10.4 street roadster roll cage/driver's compartment. No four-point (door car) cage is required and no upper windshield bar is required.
 
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