Software beta testers needed for 'Anteater'

My truck is down at the moment. If I get the chance I will try and video, but all I can really demonstrate is what my cluster and pillar gauges will be doing on the two tunes. I do have two tunes that are different strategies, one to lock early and function like a manual, and one to ride the converter to build boost.

Brandon will have to answer about the stock VB. I see no reason why it wouldn't yield the same control, sans the modifications for lockup in 2nd.

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It works the same using a stock VB, just limited to lockup in 3 or 4 because of the physical separator plate in the stock VB.

Haven't messed with my truck in a while when I last used it it shifted good and down shifted fine. Now it will not down shift to first gear I tried to change governor pressure modifier up and down did not help. The only thing i changed is I hooked the TV cable back up, because with the lever full back it shifts to hard at lite throttle. Any ideas?


If it won't go back to first, then something is partially hanging the governor pressure solenoid open. Usually it's clutch material blocking the port. There is a chance of the temp sensor being bad as well. What does the transtemp column read in the dash? 7?
 
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This is awesome! I just picked up a used 47RE last months to swap out my Getrag 360 with.

Are any of you guys running a P7100?

If so how are your setting up your TPS?

Also what gear ratios and tire sizes are you guys running? Right now I have 35" tires with 3.54 gears. I was thinking of jumping up to 4.10s
 
This is awesome! I just picked up a used 47RE last months to swap out my Getrag 360 with.

Are any of you guys running a P7100?

If so how are your setting up your TPS?

Also what gear ratios and tire sizes are you guys running? Right now I have 35" tires with 3.54 gears. I was thinking of jumping up to 4.10s
I ran one in my 01. 12v with 35" tires and 3.55 gears with no issues once I got the tunes set where I liked them

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I ran one in my 01. 12v with 35" tires and 3.55 gears with no issues once I got the tunes set where I liked them

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Thanks, my truck gets around just fine right now. I can lug the engine in high gear and accelerate without an issue. But with the Getrag 360, it sounds like junk. From what I read its a common sound with the Getrags I just wasn't sure lugging the engine with the 47RE would be a problem.
 
Thanks, my truck gets around just fine right now. I can lug the engine in high gear and accelerate without an issue. But with the Getrag 360, it sounds like junk. From what I read its a common sound with the Getrags I just wasn't sure lugging the engine with the 47RE would be a problem.
What engine speed are you considering lugging?

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What engine speed are you considering lugging?

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If I'm going 40 in 4th, I'm spinning around 1350RPMs. My truck can easily pull though and accelerate. The transmission is louder then my engine until I get up to around 1700 rpms. Then it quiets down.
 
I can see that. Auto's don't like full torque at that input speed and the kind of leverage that OD places on the trans.


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I am having a problem with locking the converter in 2nd gear. When it reaches the tune set point for lock up in 2nd the truck seems to rev to red line like it just slipped into neutral. Normal driving tune it shifts and locks up exactly like it should. Didn't know if anyone had any ideas whats going on. Thanks
 
I am having a problem with locking the converter in 2nd gear. When it reaches the tune set point for lock up in 2nd the truck seems to rev to red line like it just slipped into neutral. Normal driving tune it shifts and locks up exactly like it should. Didn't know if anyone had any ideas whats going on. Thanks
do you have a modified or stock valve body?

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Was told its after market but that's all I know bout it. Trans was in my friends truck when he bought it. He could lock it in 2nd with a lock up switch he put in.
 
Was told its after market but that's all I know bout it. Trans was in my friends truck when he bought it. He could lock it in 2nd with a lock up switch he put in.
you can try adjusting the gov pressure modifier. also how far apart is the 1-2 and 2-3 shift points from the lock up point when I set my lock up and unlock it was the same speed from 0-100%

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I've been reading through this thread and have a couple of questions. Is there anyway to make this work correctly without a factory TPS? If a TPS is in fact required is there an upgraded one available? I ditched my TPS and installed a pot because I got sick of spending $200 a year or more replacing them.
 
I've been reading through this thread and have a couple of questions. Is there anyway to make this work correctly without a factory TPS? If a TPS is in fact required is there an upgraded one available? I ditched my TPS and installed a pot because I got sick of spending $200 a year or more replacing them.
You may use any 0-5v source that increases with throttle travel. It doesn't matter if it's a string potentiometer or a real TPS.
 
Mine is running on a pot. If your pot is in the cab, it makes the mapping infinitely adjustable.

I was looking at TPS options but stopped. I should start looking again.

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Thanks for the replys.

I've been toying with the idea of making my own TPS but I'm not exactly sure how to go about it. After disassembling the stock TPS I can see why it fails, it's a cheaply made yet expensive to replace POS.
 
If you put effort into it, I was trying to find an analog Williams controls TPS and got side tracked. You might find something

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