VP Dynamic Timing Vs. Advancing

*Could you machine the timing cover with slotted holes so that the pump would rotate? Then you could put an air actuator on it like is on the wastegate so that the pump would advance as boost increased? Just an idea I had, no idea if it would work. *for a P-Pump
 
HotRodCrewCab said:
*Could you machine the timing cover with slotted holes so that the pump would rotate? Then you could put an air actuator on it like is on the wastegate so that the pump would advance as boost increased? Just an idea I had, no idea if it would work. *for a P-Pump
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All other issues aside, the injections lines are rigid and wont allow the pump to move.
 
Sorry for the stupid question but when your advancing your turning the gear clockwise or counter when lookin at the front of the engine?
 
i bet some one could make up a set of lines that would flex so that you coulf rotate the pump like on a ve pump
 
You likely could get a set of lines made, but I'm not sure how long they would last. Up to 18,000 PSI of pressure in a closely spaced pulse would not be good for the longevity of most materials I know of. The lines would basically be vibrating themselves to pieces. Of the top of my head, I really don't know of any material made that would take the pressure AND be flexible enough.
 
Yeah, I'm with Billy on that one. There has to be a way to just advance the shaft in relation to the gear while moving. I'm thinking more along the lines of a 2 piece gear (like the existing adjustables), with some kind of gear drive, driven by a servo. The main issue would be balancing it.
Sean
 
a reg o joe could pull the gear housing cover and pop the gear off the pump and advance it one tooth and reassemble, just make sure you have some time before you attempt this for your first time its not a 30min job at all
 
Yeah, I was kinda off on a P-pump tangent, for doing dynamic timing for one of those.

As for popping the gear off and rotating it. Its not that bad of a job. Having the crank seal tool (the little plastic thing that should cost less than a buck) Makes a huge difference.

Just remove the belt, then pull the fan and fan shroud (pull the whole fan mount too), then remove the balancer, and then the front timing cover. From there, pop the gear off the VP, rotate it 1 tooth clockwise, and reassemble. If you don't have a barring tool to hold the engine when tightening the VP nut back to 128ft.lbs, A chain wrench around the balancer works quite well. It doesn't take much to hold it that way.

I found it took me about an hour. The windshield washer bottle is kinda a pain if you haven't done it before, or at least it was my first time, and you need to remove it to access your shroud bolts on that side. I clean the cover off and use Grey RTV to seal it back up, and that has worked well for me.
Sean
 
HotRodCrewCab said:
*Could you machine the timing cover with slotted holes so that the pump would rotate? Then you could put an air actuator on it like is on the wastegate so that the pump would advance as boost increased? Just an idea I had, no idea if it would work. *for a P-Pump
Click to expand...

HotRodCrewCab said:
good call.... :bang

If you could "make the lines move," what other issues would there be?
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to make the pump move that easily, and still keep accurate timing without setting codes, would be no small chore.

I still feel advancing base timing and adjustable sensors for cam/crank would work best. That way you could have a 25* swing from any start point without codes as the computer would be getting a "normal" timing signal.
 
TURBOLVR said:
to make the pump move that easily, and still keep accurate timing without setting codes, would be no small chore.

I still feel advancing base timing and adjustable sensors for cam/crank would work best. That way you could have a 25* swing from any start point without codes as the computer would be getting a "normal" timing signal.
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Are you referring to a vp or p? I was talking about variable timing on a p-pump. Or mabye not variable, but 2 position, lower for starting/cold and higher for :tree:
 
TURBOLVR said:
All other issues aside, the injections lines are rigid and wont allow the pump to move.
Click to expand...

Either way this is a problem right? The pump is gonna be clocked different right? Or are you just turning the shaft on the pump to get it to line up with the gear after its turned?


Edit: Answered my own question, if the pump is clocked then the bolt holes wont line up.:bang

Reason I was askin is cause Im gonna tackle my lifter cover AGAIN:bang:bang And was gonna do the pump advancing, and prob bore out my cross over tubes to .093... I know I know. But I like the lope.
 
Is there any more info on this subject? Very interested on how all this plays out.
 
If I remove my front cover to advance the gear, I would like to build a custom cover that bolts on to the front cover. This way I can remove it & advance/retard the timing. Wonder how 10* would be? Probably hard starting?
 
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