Willys Tow Rig

I think you should port match the exhaust ports and manifold at a minimum. It doesn't take much time, so it's a big bang per buck even if you value your time for something. ;-)

I also wouldn't clip my water pump fins. Piece together a bypass kit, and get some freeze plugs that mount like the block heater:
6BT Cummins Billet Aluminum Freeze Plug Kit 12v 24v DODGE 3500 2500 Turbo Diesel | eBay

For the rear one, you can pretty easily make a plate that just covers it. There are some mounting features on the back that make it easy. Plus it's out of site, so you could sandwich some jbweld in there and it wouldn't take away from the look of your truck.
 
Dang!!! I just sat down and read the whole thing. Super cool build!
Your taste is awesome. Keep up the good work!
 
jlbayes said:
This is a very very poor decision imo.
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I've been tossing around the idea. Just hate the truck being down for so long! I guess I should probably do at least a little porting while I have it apart. I read that cleaning up the swirl ramps and knocking down the nubs around the valve stem yield the best results for your time... What about unshrouding the valves like PDR did? Worth the time?
 
CorneliusRox said:
I also wouldn't clip my water pump fins. Piece together a bypass kit, and get some freeze plugs that mount like the block heater:
6BT Cummins Billet Aluminum Freeze Plug Kit 12v 24v DODGE 3500 2500 Turbo Diesel | eBay
QUOTE]

Oh, they are just aluminum slugs with a step and o ring and then socket head bolts to a "t" to stop them from pulling out? That's pretty simple! I could actually make those right here in the shop pretty easily... What about all the small ones in the head and the small ones in the front and back of the block? Take the time to drill and tap those for 1/2" pipe plugs?
Click to expand...
 
BRE said:
Dang!!! I just sat down and read the whole thing. Super cool build!
Your taste is awesome. Keep up the good work!
Click to expand...

Thank you! I appreciate the compliments. Sometimes I forget why I put so much time into this thing, but then the stares I get are all worth it. And it IS pretty fun... :drive:
 
Redrider2911 said:
CorneliusRox said:
I also wouldn't clip my water pump fins. Piece together a bypass kit, and get some freeze plugs that mount like the block heater:
6BT Cummins Billet Aluminum Freeze Plug Kit 12v 24v DODGE 3500 2500 Turbo Diesel | eBay
Click to expand...

Oh, they are just aluminum slugs with a step and o ring and then socket head bolts to a "t" to stop them from pulling out? That's pretty simple! I could actually make those right here in the shop pretty easily... What about all the small ones in the head and the small ones in the front and back of the block? Take the time to drill and tap those for 1/2" pipe plugs?
Click to expand...

You know what, I couldn't tell you. I've only replaced those ones on the side and back with these. I haven't had an issue, but I'm only pushing about 55-60psi, 21-24deg timing (depending on time of year), and less than 4000rpms.

Maybe someone else could speak to the small ones?
 
I read that cleaning up the swirl ramps and knocking down the nubs around the valve stem yield the best results for your time...

If you took 5 minutes a hole you could see gains. The bowls are UGLY.
 
Redrider2911 said:
I've been tossing around the idea. Just hate the truck being down for so long! I guess I should probably do at least a little porting while I have it apart. I read that cleaning up the swirl ramps and knocking down the nubs around the valve stem yield the best results for your time... What about unshrouding the valves like PDR did? Worth the time?
Click to expand...

The down time will be worth the effort. I would spend the time in the bowl. I have no opinion on unshrouding the valves in regards to a 12v head as I have a 24 valve head. Drothgeb and a few others have some good pictures floating around on here of ported 12v heads.
 
I fear I have already made a mistake. I cut straight down from the edge of the valve seat until I could start blending out wider into the swirl ramp. Looking at more pictures, It appears that where there is shown a freshly lapped seat, there is a good .060 or more before any noticeable cutting started...
 
I stayed away from the valve seat to make sure I didn't slip and run the burr over the seat itself. As long as you didn't deeply undercut under the valve seat I don't see how it would be a problem. Photos always help.
 
Pictures! Might not be that bad.
I haven't done any porting other than port matching, and then I did some polishing. I'm happy with it. Lowered EGTs by ~100F
 
Having ported a 12v head and a 24v head I'll just say a 12v head ain't bad to do. It doesn't take long to make major improvements.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
This is what I got so far. Have all the throats cut out on intake and exhaust. And worked the bowl and into the runner a little on one of the exhaust ports. Have about 1 hour in to it so far.

image_zpsahxqjd0c.jpeg


image_zpsqfqphx5f.jpeg
 
Looking good so far! Do not remove too much of the ramp on the intake or lack of swirl will make it worse than stock spool but will flow more at high rpm.
I would have the valves back cut while you're in there too.
 
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What is that machine you've got there for back cutting? And what was your technique? We've got a couple lathes at work that I am comfortable with and might need to do some back cutting next time the head's off.

Also, that intake port looks awesome! Now to smooth it out!
 
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