One thing led to another. Build thread.

jlibert said:
I'd say most guys are running a 28-32" tire on a 10-12" wheel. It seems like 30-14-16 mh is a common tire.
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That's what I was thinking. Mickey Thompson has a 16X12 chrome wheel that looks pretty nice. Cheap too.

Edit: Backspacing on those might be an issue.
http://www.4wheelparts.com/Wheels/Classic-III-16X12-with-8-on-6-5-Bolt-Pattern-Polished.aspx?t_c=11&t_s=535&t_pt=101508&t_pn=M/T90000001779&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=shopping&emlprox=out&ppcfon=1&gp=1&gclid=Cj0KEQiAyIayBRDo4vjdqJrgxZ0BEiQAhOYCYCf4Q8zmWPwKJY3eJdeiPzj05np_XpeF8hh_r6p5fCgaAiPv8P8HAQ
 
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Are those M and H tires also the ones you can't street drive? Was hoping to sell my 20X12s and toyos to buy some of these. Truck won't see the road a whole lot. Just now and then.
 
24vboost said:
Are those M and H tires also the ones you can't street drive? Was hoping to sell my 20X12s and toyos to buy some of these. Truck won't see the road a whole lot. Just now and then.
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You'd be better off keeping a separate street set of tires than running your drag tires on the road. A short drive is still a lot of 1/4 miles passes of tread wasted
 
Chrisd91 said:
You'd be better off keeping a separate street set of tires than running your drag tires on the road. A short drive is still a lot of 1/4 miles passes of tread wasted
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That's what I figured. Just wondering. I know some guys run their radials all the time, but I guess you can do anything you like if you have the money...:poke:
 
Cory machined bushings for the alignment jig.

5C320F5B-C488-4EC1-B373-E04A6CAB7C9F_zpsechh5kzh.jpg


Positioning the axle tubes

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Looking at different pinion angles.

2C169228-CF22-4B25-9448-FBA635FF5A65_zpsuutvhhbi.jpg
 
I am not well versed in diesel drag setups, but I was wondering how well a nodular 9" holds up with that kind of power. Do they have to be rebuilt on a pretty regular basis?
Love the build by the by.
 
Anybody have luck fitting a 15" wheel on a stock second gen from axle?
I have a cheap set of slicks for a 15" wheel I'd like to try out
 
yjay said:
I am not well versed in diesel drag setups, but I was wondering how well a nodular 9" holds up with that kind of power. Do they have to be rebuilt on a pretty regular basis?
Love the build by the by.
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Thanks! I have no idea how it would hold up in a front application. We're using an aluminum center section, so I won't have any info on a nodular center. . There are a few things that may or may not work with this setup, so it's a bit of a gamble.
 
jlibert said:
Did you hack my phone or what? That looks like a picture i sent cory a couple weeks ago. ��
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Don't do it. These work fine for 300' and shorter distances. They are heavy and inefficient, dirty and labor intense.

Google the Ms. Misery blown alcohol truck.

I have often thought of a viscous coupling for front to rear. This will only work, however, if the front does most of the work all the time and rear is left to the soft side(ie transversely mounted front wheel drive converted to AWD). Polaris has a great set-up (at least for this app) with the sprag in the front diff.
I hate it for the down hills as the sprag prevents holdback in the front.

If I wanted to run the 1/4 mile in four wheel drive I would probably use a front tire with a moderately stiff sidewall to control growth. The rear tire should be a tad shorter at rest and on take off. Once you pass a certain mark (say 100' or so) the rear tire would grow in diameter and outrun the front thus transferring all the force to the rear axle. This will only work with the sprag clutch driving the front axle.

I have become very intimate with the B&J trans. They have a sprag to prevent the clutch drum from rotating backwards. They are very sturdy and would work in this application.

Hmmmm????? Going to need some custom machine work.
 
We use an modified NP208 transfer case. If you've been into any of the cast aluminum chain driven cases, imagine splitting the case halves, dumping out all the guts in the floor, and reassembling with a solid through shaft.

Naturally, the through shaft is custom machined, splined, and hardened. The factory chain in these cases is very strong and probably the most efficient chain type out there. Eliminating the planetary set up drops significant weight from the case as well. We are currently experimenting with rifle drilled shafts to further lighten up the case and have even explored the possibility of aluminum through and driven shafts. I'd like to get my race weight down to 2200 lbs.

I believe it would be possible to replace the roller bearings on the drive sprocket with a sprag.

Proper oiling for a 1/4 mile pass would have to be addressed as well. For our 300' and shorter runs, a quart to a quart and a half of tranny fluid is working fine. The chain must sling enough oil to lube the top bearings.

I like the 9" stuff your doing. We run the moser aluminum center sections and have had great luck.
 
Bodacious said:
We use an modified NP208 transfer case. If you've been into any of the cast aluminum chain driven cases, imagine splitting the case halves, dumping out all the guts in the floor, and reassembling with a solid through shaft.

Naturally, the through shaft is custom machined, splined, and hardened. The factory chain in these cases is very strong and probably the most efficient chain type out there. Eliminating the planetary set up drops significant weight from the case as well. We are currently experimenting with rifle drilled shafts to further lighten up the case and have even explored the possibility of aluminum through and driven shafts. I'd like to get my race weight down to 2200 lbs.

I believe it would be possible to replace the roller bearings on the drive sprocket with a sprag.

Proper oiling for a 1/4 mile pass would have to be addressed as well. For our 300' and shorter runs, a quart to a quart and a half of tranny fluid is working fine. The chain must sling enough oil to lube the top bearings.

I like the 9" stuff your doing. We run the moser aluminum center sections and have had great luck.
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Didn't ms misery (bobby) build his own transfercase/enclosed chain drive? It seems like having the rear outgrow the front would create a pushing issue and make the front unstable. I've always assumed you'd want the front to run faster to keep everything straight.
 
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