the start of the 2.6 puller part2

Don't hate on me for telling you the troubles that I have had and several others also. I have spent 2 years trying to get this tranny right and can't. Maybe someone will get is figure out. Everyone was always willing to say I guarantee we can get it working and they couldn't. My advise is sell your auto tranny. But a manual for around $1700, A South Bend double disk with 3800 pound clutch will run you around $2200. Then you will have about anther $500 in findind a junk yard to get the shifter pedals and other odds and ends you need. Then have the dealer flash the truck pcm to a manual tranny pcm and then have ERIC tune it. If you start with switching it to a manual before you get your 5R built you will find that it will cost about the same money and you won't have all the 5R headaches. Do it right the first time, I wish I did. Talk to Jeff, (IGOTIT) and see what he thinks after his swap. Talk to SOGRAND he owns a tranny shop and set Jeff up with all the parts.

My true opinion is your truck is to nice to make a puller. I have seen 200+ thousand mile trucks on ebay with a manual tranny sell for around $5000. The same price as your built tranny or manual swap.

Hell, check this out:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...0302628145&sspagename=STRK:MEWAX:IT&viewitem=


Or this:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...0359784157&sspagename=STRK:MEWAX:IT&viewitem=

Plus this:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...0313722785&sspagename=STRK:MEWAX:IT&viewitem=

Plus this: my local junk yard has 4 of these for between $500 and $350

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Dana...c0.m245&_trkparms=72:1171|65:12|39:1|240:1318

Plus a little work equals a running 4wd $2500 2.6 pulling truck. Add injectors turbo, fuel upgrades, and big clutch and you have a 600 rwhp manaul tranny 2.6 puller for under $8000. And you still get to drive your nice truck everyday as you are not working on it.
 
Might be a sacrilegious comment, but if you went through the work to put a 4r100 behind it, what about an Allison?
 
an allison LOL listen to jermey and get the manual. dan from midwest can set u up with everything u need at a good price too.
 
lubeowner said:
Don't hate on me for telling you the troubles that I have had and several others also. I have spent 2 years trying to get this tranny right and can't. Maybe someone will get is figure out. Everyone was always willing to say I guarantee we can get it working and they couldn't. My advise is sell your auto tranny. But a manual for around $1700, A South Bend double disk with 3800 pound clutch will run you around $2200. Then you will have about anther $500 in findind a junk yard to get the shifter pedals and other odds and ends you need. Then have the dealer flash the truck pcm to a manual tranny pcm and then have ERIC tune it. If you start with switching it to a manual before you get your 5R built you will find that it will cost about the same money and you won't have all the 5R headaches. Do it right the first time, I wish I did. Talk to Jeff, (IGOTIT) and see what he thinks after his swap. Talk to SOGRAND he owns a tranny shop and set Jeff up with all the parts.

My true opinion is your truck is to nice to make a puller. I have seen 200+ thousand mile trucks on ebay with a manual tranny sell for around $5000. The same price as your built tranny or manual swap.

Hell, check this out:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...0302628145&sspagename=STRK:MEWAX:IT&viewitem=


Or this:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...0359784157&sspagename=STRK:MEWAX:IT&viewitem=

Plus this:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...0313722785&sspagename=STRK:MEWAX:IT&viewitem=

Plus this: my local junk yard has 4 of these for between $500 and $350

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Dana...c0.m245&_trkparms=72:1171|65:12|39:1|240:1318

Plus a little work equals a running 4wd $2500 2.6 pulling truck. Add injectors turbo, fuel upgrades, and big clutch and you have a 600 rwhp manaul tranny 2.6 puller for under $8000. And you still get to drive your nice truck everyday as you are not working on it.
Click to expand...


Im not bashing you at all, I actually look up to you for everything you have done with the 6.0 to get it to where it is sled pulling wise.

the truck already has 456`s and true-tracs front and rear.
 
Oh do tell? What's the magic trick with this transmission? Will it consistently use 6 forward gears instead of the 5.5 we have now? I take it this is supposed to be an upgraded mate to the 6.4?
 
That thing done yet? :poke: Dayum im waitin to take a ride in the new improved Cookie Monster!! :rockwoot:
 
well me and E took the heads out friday, and I will have em back monday or tuesday!!!, mean while I figured I would post some newer pics of the beast in her color, and other parts, picked up some AWESOME sponsors in the past weeks this wouldnt have happened with out the help of TRUSTED PERFORMANCE..stay tuned. and thanks to all here at compD. the cookie monster will be a monster when she rolls out of the shop next!!

oops i painted the hpop cover :doh: its gotta come off for the new pump!!
 

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lubeowner said:
Might as well say it on both sites:
Here from the resident Ford tranny guru:

The 2-3 is a swap shift. This is a special catagory of difficult shift. I believe Ford is the only trans maker in the world that still does swap shifts. Others have put swap shift transmissions in production and then replaced them within a few years. To make a swap shift the TorqShift needs to release the OD clutch to downshift the OD gearset while applying the intermediate clutch to upshift the Simpson planetary gearset. This is an upshift and a downshift occuring at the same time in the same trans. From my experience these two shifts MUST complete within 30 milliseconds of each other or it's going to feel awful. If the OD releases too soon the engine speed will flare. The amount of flare is dependant on how much sooner it completes. If it completes before the intermediate has enough capacity the trans goes back to first gear! Then it has to make a 1-3 shift. A few WOT 1-3 shifts means the trans comes out to replace the intermediate clutch. Been there, done that. If the OD releases after the intermediate comes on you end up in 4th gear (1.09:1 ratio) then downshift back to third gear (1.54:1 ratio.) Either way it's really bad.

You start having some 2 to 4th shifts and causing you to loose alot of rpms and you will hate the 5R just like I do.
For more learning on the 5r you can read his complete post here:
http://powerstrokenation.com/forums/...62&postcount=6
After reading this I would think that you should be able to understand why many less perameters in the low range shifting table will get your tranny to end up with shifting problems.
Click to expand...

Was this only happening when pulling...when my truck is loaded with Innovatives tunes it jumps around in gears like this...tried the link to PSN and it didn't work but I wanted to read more. I have had trans issues for over a year now but the dealer won't do crap since no codes are being thrown...
 
So if the forward clutch is applied. Then OD is applied for 2nd. Forward stays applied. OD is released. Intermediate is now applied along with forward. Where is the downshift? You have been in forward the entire time. You are always in forward. 1-6. Intermediate comes off and then on comes direct with forward. Then direct stays on and on comes overdrive to give you OD.

With your statement you are saying that when I let go of 3rd. I'm downshifting back to 1st and then into 5th. Cause remember 4th would be forward, intermediate and OD for the fake 4th gear. OD is 6th gear.

Oh and by the way. A 30ms shift is 5 times faster than a Ferrari F1 style gearbox in the 2007 F430 and twice as fast as the 08 version. So I'm not quite sure what crack you are smoking. I do know that if you commanded a shift to take 30ms the computer would laugh at you and would sit there and wonder what the hell you are trying to do.
 
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Rob D said:
lol doug you are a funny bastard
Click to expand...

Sometimes I just wonder if people are crazy. I don't do it for laughs, I do it cause I'm tired of people thinking this thing is a piece of crap. It all comes down to some people would rather play with springs and valves and some people would rather command a direct acting solenoid to get the shift.

Ok, Ok. Maybe I might phrase certain things a certain way to get a chuckle sometimes.
 
Wish I lived closer so you could take a ride in my truck and see wtf is going on...if your ever any closer to new england let me know bud.
 
Because a 4R100 stacks clutches to get new gears it is thought to be a more favorable design. Forward. Add Intermediate. Add Direct. Add OD. Ford also has an AX4S and an AX4N. Same idea. Syncronous or Non. The higher powered engine gets the N version. Go figure.

I just know I can get more control when I tell a solenoid to apply a clutch instead of telling a solenoid to move a valve to apply a clutch and to dampen it with an accumulator.
 
lubeowner said:
Tim, I am the 5R hater.

I love it for a daily driver and for drag racing.

I just hate it for sled pulling, he is trying to build a sled puller so that it why I spoke up. I am not trying to burst anyones bubble. I know of about 4 trucks that are trying to be full time pullers and none can get the tranny to work right. I am just trying to save the OP some time, money and frustration. The tranny is pretty sound mecahnically to well into the 600+ hp range pulling. The ***** is you can't get it to shift right. The tranny is just to smart and will do whatever it wants on its own. No matter where the shifing lever it put. If Ford would have put an RPM table for shifting in low range then we probably wouldn't be having this discussion. The tranny worked great for pulling when my truck was around the 550 hp range. Once we got the truck into what was roughly 600+ range all these shifting issues started showing their ugly head. Then when we took it to a pretty similar build as Rednecks then hard parts starting breaking every pull. I never made one pull last year without breaking something in the drive train. This year I shouldn't break anything, the pulling truck won't have a 5R anymore. Life should be way better!!
Click to expand...

Well holy ****. There is a table for RPM shifting. It can be found under Shift/Lock Schedule > 4x4 Low > Scalar in the SCT tuning software. WOT Rpm shift point for all gears. So are we going to continue to have this conversation? There are also tables in there for shifting based on MPH for each gear as well. Just figured I would mention those as well. And they can also be found under Shift/Lock Schedule > 4x4 Low.
 
PSDPlayer said:
Well holy ****. There is a table for RPM shifting. It can be found under Shift/Lock Schedule > 4x4 Low > Scalar in the SCT tuning software. WOT Rpm shift point for all gears. So are we going to continue to have this conversation? There are also tables in there for shifting based on MPH for each gear as well. Just figured I would mention those as well. And they can also be found under Shift/Lock Schedule > 4x4 Low.
Click to expand...

And I have found that anytime you are over 6 to 650 at the wheels you MUST match these tables.. Otherwise you are going to beat it to death on the rev limiter and then it will shift when it decides to.
 
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