12v build to start soon!

plans are changing because I bought a dedicated puller. I've got two different setups that I cannot decide between.

I want to keep costs down to some extent (which is kinda why I want to keep some of the parts I have i.e.: 66 turbo). I will probably be towing a 25' trailer with the pulling truck on it throughout the summer, but other than that, I want a reliable but very very very fun truck for the street. Still looking for 600-650 hp and I do not want to do twins.

Please let me know which setup you're thinking and/or any suggestions. I've got a good idea, and I've had some help from some good guys (Charlie, Brian, Ryan) on this new "build," if you will, but I'd like some more input please. I've done so much searching, but everything is running together….I keep getting greedy for more power, but I know reliability/drivability wont be there with a lot bigger set up (I don't mind having to fluctuate the skinny pedal or a little smoke, but I don't want it to be a DOG everywhere except at 4K rpm…..)

1st setup:

66/83/.9 t4
t4 manifold
160 pump
.024 dv's
stock lines
5x.016's
arp 425's
o ringed head
14 mm mains
stock pistons/cam/rods/crank (balanced)
60 lb valve springs
18-20* timing

2nd setup:

64/73/14
5x.016's
160 pump
.022 dv's
stock lines
stock pistons/cam/rods/crank (balanced)
stock head
o ringed head
arp 425's
17-18* timing

Thanks guys
 
Got the motor!!! I like "small" builds haha
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Build Sheet (if you can call it a "build"):

- billet 10 blade 63/68/.91 T4 (thanks Taylor)
- PDI manifold three piece T4
- SDX 5x.014's .10 lift 275 bar
- .022 dv's
- barrels have been racked (160 pump)
- no plate
- stock lines
- H11 studs
- 60# valve springs
- KDP fix
- Kenny's triple disc
- cfm+ intake horn
- timing to 18* (I think)

Can't wait
 
Zeppelin654 said:
Build Sheet (if you can call it a "build"):

- billet 10 blade 63/68/.91 T4 (thanks Taylor)
- PDI manifold three piece T4
- SDX 5x.014's .10 lift 275 bar
- .022 dv's
- barrels have been racked (160 pump)
- no plate
- stock lines
- H11 studs
- 60# valve springs
- KDP fix
- Kenny's triple disc
- cfm+ intake horn
- timing to 18* (I think)

Can't wait
Click to expand...

That'll be a fun street setup, going to be pretty similar to mine once I get through with it.
 
I'm getting excited. It's fun to see what the little changes make to the truck. Timing sound ok to you? I know I can tinker with it, but I'd like to have a good baseline to go off of. I want good power down low which is why I don't want to set it over 22-24...
 
Zeppelin654 said:
I'm getting excited. It's fun to see what the little changes make to the truck. Timing sound ok to you? I know I can tinker with it, but I'd like to have a good baseline to go off of. I want good power down low which is why I don't want to set it over 22-24...
Click to expand...

I think so. I've always thought 18-20* was a good number for a mildly modified street truck. Just out of curiosity, why are you leaving the SteedSpeed manifold for the PDI three piece?
 
The steed is going on the puller and the pdi from the puller is going on the street truck
 
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My sig tells it all. I got the truck back today and it runs great. I need to tweak some things here and there, charge AC, hook up cruise control, etc…..but overall, it runs good for what it is. I thought the little 53 would have a bit more kick in the pants, but it pulls pretty good from 2200-3000 rpm. I'm kinda surprised I can only hit ~40 pounds of boost and about 3000 max rpm. I have the 4K gsk and plenty of fuel…..? It seems egt's are more controlable over the board and response is a fair amount better than the 66 I had on there.

NOW…..I've done a bunch of searches, but I can't seem to find a "definite" answer to my problem. The truck was always a slow shifter (nv4500 btw. Went from a valair dd to a kenny's ddd clutch) It has always been hard to get it to "lurch" back into reverse (getting the stick to go into reverse), and I sometimes have to put it in 3rd gear or something like that and then go quickly to reverse to get it to go in…. It now…….is SUPER hard to get into any gear, especially 3rd (I'm considering L to be 1st gear btw) I cannot get it into 1st, 2nd, 3rd, 5th and reverse when the truck is running without it grinding. Sometimes I can get it to go into 4th gear and then I have to go really quickly into 2nd to start from a stop sign. When the trucks running and in gear, it kinda moves/creeps forward even with the pedal to the floor (the engagement point was a lot higher before too)

Does this mean the clutch is not fully disengaging when the pedal is in? If so, how can I fix this? Could it be the master or slave cylinder? (I went with kenny's upgraded hydraulic upgrade when I got the new clutch btw)

Could it just need to be bleed? If air is in the fluid, would it allow the pedal to go to the floor but still not disengage the clutch?

Driving it like this sucks, I hope you guys might be able to help me with this so I might not have to tear the tranny out to look at it…..Thanks
 
clutch is still effed up. It will not go into 1st, 2nd, 3rd, 5th, and reverse. It will grind when trying to go into 2nd. We tore it apart today, and this is what we came across. I didn't get any pics of the clutch housing, but it looks like the clutch was hitting something and grinding on itself somewhere……??? It didn't feel like it though… I'm confused. The clutch disk closest to the flywheel and the flywheel itself show wear, only (from the center of the disk/flywheel) 3/4 of an inch from the center ……the outside portion still shows cross hatching?? no contact there? is my triple disc only acting like a DD???? also, there is A LOT of "blueing" and hotspots on the intermediate plates/clutch dics…. I am going to contact Kenny's Pulling Parts about this……Input shaft is clean, polished, and never seized…… throwout bearing moves freely and does not seem to bind anywhere……This is all a mystery to me. BTW, I even switched the hydros from the Kenny's stuff back to my Valair hydros from my old DD clutch…..they couldnt even hold the pressure……the truck just surged right off the bat….as soon as I let the gear fall into place. Notice the picture of the bellhousing cover and the groove that was ground into it (the lighter color near the top of the bellhousing from 10-2: FIRST PICTURE)…..what could this come from. I know the triple disc is tight, but come on…..way to figity if nothing is really wrong here !!??

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I've been highly considering a rebuild kit of sorts……maybe just synchros or bearings and seals too…..This is getting to be a pain in the 'you know what' I'm going to call Kenny tomorrow too about the clutch
 
You will love those injectors for what you are doing. I got the best fuel mileage running them at 19* with a 62mm. I have had to clearance the outside edge of the pressure plate (plate that the diaphragm springs are riveted to) in a dd nv4500 before. It usually is the very rearmost part of the clutch that drags.
 
Thanks for the photoshop. I need to see if my buddy can take some more pics for you because the areas you highlighted are exactly where it looks like they took a grinder to the edge. It is a crude cut, not a nice machined finish

Its right at the "6 o'clock" position in this picture just to the right of the one nut at the bottom right where that whiteish looking hole is (its actually been ground down in all four sports like that…idk if I can continue to grind that more for clearance or not)
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you can see where something has been rubbing from the 10 o'clock to 2 o'clock location on the inside of the bellhousing
IMG_1641.jpg
 
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I was never told I would need a longer shaft and the spacer should have come with the clutch?

The thing that kills me is that earlier this year when I had this clutch on the other motor (in the same truck), second gear was kinda hard to get into, as well as first and reverse, but they would all go into gear with "coaxing." We didn't mess with anything in the tranny (we din't remove it or anything) and now it is not working…….

I feel like it might be the hydros because the engagement point is a lot closer to the floor compared to right in the middle of the pedal travel like before, but I'm not sure. I even swapped the hydros from my old double disc valair clutch and they weren't strong enough to disengage/engage. With the valair hydros, I had to put it in gear before I turned it on because I couldn't get it into any gear when running. When I turned it on, the truck surged forward and almost went over the ramps lol
 
You need to adjust your engagement point than for your clutch also be sure there is no air in the system.

Was there any tiny shavings at all when you pulled everything apart? You may want to check your gears to see how bad they have been damaged from the grinding. A rebuild kit may not be a bad idea
 
There were no shavings that I saw. I think I'm going to at least change the synchros. I'm sending the clutch and hydros to Kenny, per his request
 
while I'm waiting to get the clutch back, I thought I'd modify my exhaust. I want it to come out of the bedside, near the top of the rail. I got my idea from hurley:

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Keep in mind, its going on this truck:

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Here's the y pipe IF I decide to go with dual tips instead of one single tip. The 60* bend pipe is going to mate up to the elbow coming up through the bed where the stack was before:

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I'm thinking either:

dual mbrp black slash cut tips:

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With this design though, I will have to either modify the current y pipe, or make a new one. This is because the inner part of the y is too tight and the 4" id x 5" od tips hit each other in the middle and I cant get them both on….not impossible, but kinda a pain.

OR silverline 4" x 4" turndown tips (but turned up in this case). Either both pointing straight up, or angled back a bit at like the 10 o'clock position:

Straight up:
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Angled Back:
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OR (and I don't have a picture of this) I was thinking, a cheaper and easier style could be using a shorter 6" chrome stack (could be powdercoated black though…) and simply clamping it directly to the 60* bend elbow pipe thats coming out of the bed. I would keep the mitre cut parallel to the bedside btw.

There will be a small heat shield/ plate around just the bottom of the piping and it will be supported well. I am going to make a "surround" out of metal and rivet it to the bedside around where the pipe comes out for a clean(er) look.

please VOTE fellas because I can't decide which style I like the best. I'm not worried about soot getting on the bedside or it being too loud, so you can rule those two "cons" out.

Thanks guys
 
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Two black tips gets my vote. Show soot less so it's win, win. It'll look clean on your truck I think because of the color.
 
Maybe a tool box or tonneau cover to hide the pipes inside the bed would be sweet too.
 
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