3126 cat n an ambulance chassis

Snedge said:
Easy enough. Just install a like sized cribbing block between or on either end.

Gary, two batteries will be fine.
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I got 3.... had mismatched junk in from 14 was the only one marked...it starts good now...it was 280 for 3..long as im not stranded idc....*bdh*
 
dieselbeef said:
I got 3.... had mismatched junk in from 14 was the only one marked...it starts good now...it was 280 for 3..long as im not stranded idc....*bdh*
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I hope your luck changes with this thing. It's about time for you to get some enjoyment out of it.
 
well...we made it 3 hrs there and halfway back....then the warning light for the parking brake started flashing off and on. randomly going down the road..air pressure was at the mark on the guage where the parking brake mark is...like 120 or more psi..didn't have low air pressure warning buzzer or anything like that..it would flash and it would beep like a warning like when the overheat alarm was coming on..same kinda warning beep.smooth road..bumpy road..trlr plugged on or not..but...seems like when it was at 70 mph it was doing it more than at 50 on the backroads...this truck hates me
...
 
dieselbeef said:
well...we made it 3 hrs there and halfway back....then the warning light for the parking brake started flashing off and on. randomly going down the road..air pressure was at the mark on the guage where the parking brake mark is...like 120 or more psi..didn't have low air pressure warning buzzer or anything like that..it would flash and it would beep like a warning like when the overheat alarm was coming on..same kinda warning beep.smooth road..bumpy road..trlr plugged on or not..but...seems like when it was at 70 mph it was doing it more than at 50 on the backroads...this truck hates me
...
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Probably junk pressure switch. Replace it or tie the wires together and roll
 
so...in my quest to make the parking brake sensor stop dinging all the time I was just screweing with looking at this junk..

on the side toolbox under the drivers door theres a small compressor with a pressure switch. I'm assuming this should be wired hot and the press sw is to keep air in the truck so when it sits it doesn't have to wait on it to build pressure? am I correct..it isn't working...but I might fix it..idk

the air horns run out of air? how can this be possible...never runs out of brake air...im sure its the same sustem....

the drivers front brake hangs up after it sits and even after the ir is up it sticks until I can brek it loose by trying to drive it...forward or backward will ususally unstick it...chamber?
 
well drove the ****box last night out to eat. only making 12 volts or lower. man I'm sick of this pos...never gonna sell it and if they don't take it on trade idk wtf I'm gonna do with it....I mena every single fng time I drive it its something new...haven't fixed the low air sensor yet..and now the thing isn't charging....between 11.5 and 12.2 volts just normal driving
 
Damn it man. I'm frustrated for you. I know what's like like to have something that you want to burn to the ground but don't want to risk be arrested on insurance fraud.
 
lol..man you aint kidding brother..i aint never had anything as bad as this...never ends...lst time it was a ground...just tired man..sposed to go riding this weekend too...fack
 
4x4dually said:
Damn it man. I'm frustrated for you. I know what's like like to have something that you want to burn to the ground but don't want to risk be arrested on insurance fraud.
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Grease fires are very common in RV's. Bacon on the stove, knock the pan over, empty the fire extinguisher, and walk away.
 
oh I know **** happens..esp electrical ****..but I so want it to be a good truck..no full coverage anyways....that wont work...lol
 
12v compressor is ambulance crap, scrap it. Brake hanging is probably return spring in chamber or the classic case of not being greased by every previous owner. Low voltage could be corroded terminals, actually check at the alternator or batteries running with a real meter.

I can’t stress this enough. THIS IS WHAT YOU GET WITH USED CHIT!!! Everytime I hear someone saying they wouldn’t buy new this is what I think of. I’ve done it with semis, I’ve done it with cars. Most of the time you inherit someone else’s neglected crap. Sure it’s cheaper on initial purchase but is it really cheaper? How much time is invested if you don’t include parts? Would you work a week or a month for free at your job? Then why would you not consider a week or more worth of fixing a vehicle into the price. I will not own a vehicle that isn’t reliable, it has issues it’s gone.

Fire trucks and ambulances are some of the worst maintained vehicles. All they do is wash the outside. Fire truck company rented our shop a few times for refurbish work. Shiny paint on the outside, total crap underneath.
 
thanks mr f....yea that little compressor is outta here for sure...idk where it even goes...

last time this charging thing happened it was the ground terminal..but it was fine last trip...pos...I took it apart and cleaned it...gorund the paint off..greased it and putit together with an impact....has new batts and been fine for a cpl mons..

front brake...we greased it..hasn't become that big a deal so far so f it..chatters a little tho and sometimes might pull..so far its ok...

I hear ya bout buying new...im starting to think that way as I get older..didn't so much used to but I do now..still...im stuck with it for now cuz I cant even sell it for the 15k I bought it for...


tell me this ??? how do the air horns run out of air..they on their own tank?
 
dieselbeef said:
tell me this ??? how do the air horns run out of air..they on their own tank?
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Sounds like you have a solenoid valve(or the horns themselves) that only operate with a minimum pressure. In other words....your tank has 80psi.(just an example) but the valve/horns don’t do anything until 85psi.+.
 
dieselbeef said:
thanks mr f....yea that little compressor is outta here for sure...idk where it even goes...

last time this charging thing happened it was the ground terminal..but it was fine last trip...pos...I took it apart and cleaned it...gorund the paint off..greased it and putit together with an impact....has new batts and been fine for a cpl mons..

front brake...we greased it..hasn't become that big a deal so far so f it..chatters a little tho and sometimes might pull..so far its ok...

I hear ya bout buying new...im starting to think that way as I get older..didn't so much used to but I do now..still...im stuck with it for now cuz I cant even sell it for the 15k I bought it for...


tell me this ??? how do the air horns run out of air..they on their own tank?
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I put all new batteries in my truck when I got it, new engine, starter, alternator, brakes, paint etc and about 2yrs later it would randomly not start, would just click and if I was lucky finally take off. Tighten the battery cables and it was good for a few months. Finally got tired of the random chit because it would always do it at the worst time and I became a pit crew at taking the step cover off. Then it finally occurred to me that the cables were original and had 600k miles on them, damn things looked good on top but the bottoms were dark and corroded. Hit everything with a scotch brite wheel on a die grinder and it’s been perfect. You forget that most of the stuff is not new and most have never been touched since they were new.

It’s hard to say how those horns are plumbed. You could spend a day tracing it or just run a line from the tank to the valve.


Not all used is bad, just have to think that a $3000 2016 Honda Civic is probably going to be in WAY better shape than a $3000 2016 BMW M5. If it’s extremely cheap there is almost always a reason and it’s rarely the owner has piles of cash and wants it gone.
 
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