Ahale's 94 Build thread

ahale2772 said:
I wish I knew how to make this engine run right.

60degrees F and its starts up like its 30. Smoke when the engine is cold is absurd. It acts like its just not burning the fuel.

I'm so sick of not knowing whats wrong with this pile
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Are you still running a grid heater and is it cycling with the key? White smoke I assume?
 
I don't have first-hand experience with 13mm pumps and wicked fast injection cam profiles, but I'd have to assume that they will have some funky/non-stock-like running characteristics. It's possible that there is nothing wrong with the motor, pump, injectors, etc., you're simply experiencing the side-effects of running 100% race truck setup on the street. It seems that some get away with 13mm pumps with the standard Bosch quick-rate cam but you're probably running in uncharted territory for a street truck, cold weather start, truck with that new pump cam, 13mm, head, etc.

Hopefully you get it figured out and it's nothing major. We all want to see your truck perform well and succeed!
 
Back the timing off, 160* injectors shouldn't need that much especially if your driving on the street. what did weston recommend for timing?
 
Big Blue24 said:
I don't have first-hand experience with 13mm pumps and wicked fast injection cam profiles, but I'd have to assume that they will have some funky/non-stock-like running characteristics. It's possible that there is nothing wrong with the motor, pump, injectors, etc., you're simply experiencing the side-effects of running 100% race truck setup on the street. It seems that some get away with 13mm pumps with the standard Bosch quick-rate cam but you're probably running in uncharted territory for a street truck, cold weather start, truck with that new pump cam, 13mm, head, etc.

Hopefully you get it figured out and it's nothing major. We all want to see your truck perform well and succeed!
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Thanks Will, I get that I'm asking a ton out of full race parts. Makes me feel bad for full race guys.

Most people I've talked to (and my gut) tell me that mid 20's in timing should be sufficient. Weston suggested that I check the timing with a timing light. Im going to try that this afternoon.
 
Big Blue24 said:
I don't have first-hand experience with 13mm pumps and wicked fast injection cam profiles, but I'd have to assume that they will have some funky/non-stock-like running characteristics. It's possible that there is nothing wrong with the motor, pump, injectors, etc., you're simply experiencing the side-effects of running 100% race truck setup on the street. It seems that some get away with 13mm pumps with the standard Bosch quick-rate cam but you're probably running in uncharted territory for a street truck, cold weather start, truck with that new pump cam, 13mm, head, etc.

Hopefully you get it figured out and it's nothing major. We all want to see your truck perform well and succeed!
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This was exactly our findings like I mentioned before. Thats alot to ask of a big pump to act like a somewhat stock pump.
 
I checked the timimg with a light, at the injection pump i read 27 deg and at the injector about 25.5 deg. This light uses a pulse sensor on the line and has a light that i'm refrencing off my tdc pointer and balancer mark that I know to be dead on. Not sure why there is a 1.5 deg spread, but either way, its not like the timing is at 45 deg and thats my problem.

Sooner or later I'm going to do a cold compression check and see what that gets me.
 
Well the timing you set is the pump in off position .. when its running One would assume a slight rotation on the barrels would make a slight timing advance .. Or is it just my thinking ?
 
DieselMonster said:
Well the timing you set is the pump in off position .. when its running One would assume a slight rotation on the barrels would make a slight timing advance .. Or is it just my thinking ?
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I'm fairly certain he is talking about the injection pulse pickup locations being 27 and 25.5.
 
A flat top plunger will not change lift with rack position (rotation).

Like Kleann said, the difference in timing is the location of the pickup on the injector line. I'd say those measurements are +- half a degree.
 
Depending on the size of lines your using, and the pop off pressure on the injectors, 1.5 Degrees seems pretty normal to me.
 
My thought pattern was ,

You time the truck with the pump in the OFF position , when its running the barrels are slightly turned wich may add a few .5-2* of timing , and then yes the actual time it takes to make the pressure to pop the injector ..

Or , Does that just not make any sence ? My thought of the difference between the SD solenoid in the off position and the IP @ idle .. would there not be some timeing added at that low of an RPM ? or would that take more RPM's ?
 
DieselMonster said:
My thought pattern was ,

You time the truck with the pump in the OFF position , when its running the barrels are slightly turned wich may add a few .5-2* of timing , and then yes the actual time it takes to make the pressure to pop the injector ..

Or , Does that just not make any sence ? My thought of the difference between the SD solenoid in the off position and the IP @ idle .. would there not be some timeing added at that low of an RPM ? or would that take more RPM's ?
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setting the timing with a dial indicator on the plunger uses lift from the base circle of the cam to set the timing. That number does not change with a flat top plunger at any position of the rack, even with the shut down solenoid pulling the rack back. P7100 timing with a flat top plunger is static, it never changes with rpm.... there are special plungers that retard and advance timing with rack position, but they are not flat top.
 
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AHH, Ok .. I wasnt too sure if that would have anyting to do with it ..

Thanks for the responce there..
 
DieselMonster said:
AHH, Ok .. I wasnt too sure if that would have anyting to do with it ..

Thanks for the responce there..
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No problem, I wish I knew all the dynamics of timing from the top of the plunger to the piston, but I'm not sure anyone fully understands that.
 
Yeah I was just thinking for what ever reason that if the fuel solenoid was moving the rack even slightly .. but then it also makes sence your going off the cam not the plunger .. So my thought pattern is just a bit off ..

I appritiate not getting irritated with me there , Got it all straight now ..
 
This is 90% lazieness, but can some one tell me the best way to start tuning these waste gates on my truck? I honestly do not know where to even start. they are 7Lb springs in 38mm gates. above the diapragm? below? boost? drive? Regulator?

I'm going to dig into throwing some spray at it soon, and I'd love to keep a turbo alive...
 
I think it's full boost on bottom and regulated boost on top.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
What I do not get, is say I'm at 60psi boost, 70 psi drive. If i feed the bottom 60psi. And the top 50psi thats basically like adding a 10 psi spring under the diaphragm to help it overcome the 7psi spring. Dosnt that just mean that the gate is going to open really early? I work with hydraulics all day and for some reason I cant wrap my head around this one
 
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