Ahale's 94 Build thread

So I attempted to go to new england truck nationals at NED this weekend and was rained out, I've made a few small changes to the truck and honestly have not even got a change to test them out. Plan is to go back to the track tomorrow and make a few more runs.

I pulled the spool flange off so that the 80 is mounted right on the manifold and it feels a good bit more healthy all around. I atribute most of it probably to a drive pressure leak at the flange shaft, and I'm sure it helps now that 1-2-3 are divided fully from 4-5-6. spool is slower down low, but mid range it seems to get on boost faster. That combined with some extra afc tweaks and she feels healthy.

I'll see how long they let me play under 11.5 before they ask me to run 1/8 mile.

I would love to see 10.xx before the end of the season...
 
Antrims is this weekend I know its a long ride but itd be awesome to see the truck.
 
40ray said:
Antrims is this weekend I know its a long ride but itd be awesome to see the truck.
Click to expand...

I would but the transmission Is hurting. I'm guessing the forward pack is smoked, can feel it dragging in all gears when its hot. I'd like to get it fixed before the end of the month for a local dyno day.

Got booted last night at 11.4. did a semi-all out pass without spray (except spooling) and they were being quite strict about the 11.5 rule. Not too bummed about it, but it would have been nice to get a quicker run in before the winter. Guess its time for a cage and some better wheels and tires.

my best 60ft to date is still a 1.7, I'm guessing that's due to rolling weight seeing that the truck itself only weighs 6k lbs in race form.

I really need to focus on getting things in the cab sorted out so I don't need to play mad scientist to get a fast run down the track. way too much going on to lay down consistent passes.

I have no idea how to imbed videos BTW, help would be appreciated.

[ame]http://vid630.photobucket.com/albums/uu29/ahale2772/FB38143A-A815-4F51-97F5-A9597FF59496_zpslhk0abll.mp4[/ame]
 
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In your video, it seems to hang the shifts a little. Are you manually shifting the truck? If you are, you might try shifting a little earlier (if that big single turbo will stay lit) just to see if it gets quicker. It looks like you could easily pick up a tenth or two on the 1-2 and 2-3 shifts with an earlier shift strategy.
 
Big Blue24 said:
In your video, it seems to hang the shifts a little. Are you manually shifting the truck? If you are, you might try shifting a little earlier (if that big single turbo will stay lit) just to see if it gets quicker. It looks like you could easily pick up a tenth or two on the 1-2 and 2-3 shifts with an earlier shift strategy.
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I kept screwing up the 1-2 due to trying to lock up up in first. It has a few tenths in me just learning how to drive it best. Thats the silly part about it being capable of doing sub 11.5 with no cage, I cant even practice without getting booted. I was worried about hotlapping the trans so I only did one or two 1/8 mile runs.

On one of the 1/8 runs I spun 4wd off the line and ended up shifting 2nd early. It got back on the turbo and still managed 98 in the 1/8th. It liked being loaded hard off the line.

Just for the sake of being safe, it will get a cage this winter, and the 4 link just for weight. Im not looking for it to do 9's but it would be fun to drive it to the track and run 10's consistently and reliably.
 
Is the Trans that fragile. Seems like people have been able to hot lap them lately with little issue


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I've been beating the living tar out of this trans at over 800 HP for over a year. Its earned its keep.

but like I said, my cooling situation could probably be upgraded for how much I need to stand on the converter to spool it, its only a dual 16 row derale fan cooler.
 
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Nice looking run either way, I cant wait to get Bombing on mine in spring, just got released to work 2-6lbs right arm lifting .. this is gonna take a while ..LOL
 
pulled the trans out of the truck yesterday, pulled it apart this morning.

All in all it looks good, no visible wear on thrust washers, one alto in the forward pack was warped, most likely causing the engagement in N and Reverse. the bands also got quite hot, stumps me why the lower/reverse burnt.

It will be going back together with high-energys

Pringle

E541EA05-4118-4476-89E5-0B628B211C7F_zpshmz0pq5u.jpg


Direct...

A3B9C0DF-2C5C-473C-8564-63BB34FF0122_zps56rlqhiz.jpg



forward...

68310F4A-2AF4-4439-A418-8DCD0FEEC206_zpsrj1pkbkr.jpg


reverse drum heat...

F5FD11C1-1E45-4192-BD47-489DF8CAF292_zpszhnvk2o7.jpg


rigid band stuffs...

ACFEDEBF-D7DD-43A7-968B-01768B02C2EF_zpsoq3husst.jpg
 
I'm sure you've already been told this but thicker clutches/steels handle the heat better, something to think about if your gonna be getting it hot spooling large turbos all the time.
 
Yup, only ran these because I got this trans setup this way. I've always used the thicker high energy raybestos in the past. Pretty surprised that out of the bunch only one clutch failed here though.
 
Thanks^

I've been dragging ass on getting the trans back together after finding that the bearing surface on the output shaft for the sprag is junk. The sprag itself looks fine, but the surface on the shaft looks like it is just too soft and is indented.

Just another one of those almost 1000$ purchases that come with the territory.
 
I've heard of some brands of billet output shafts not having the proper heat treat for that sprag. It's a shortcut that some manufacturers take as a form of cost savings. The conundrum is from trying to construct the billet output with (1) heat treat process. Ultimate shaft flexibility and therefore shock load strength occurs at a heat treat/hardness that is too soft for the sprag. Some shaft manufacturers have just ponied up and used a double heat treat process that allows the shaft and bearing surface to be treated separately so both can have ideal temper/heat treating.

What brand is the shaft and could you post up a picture?
 
Not sure the manufacturer, looks to be maraging steel. only markings on it are etched on to the end of the shaft.

97003170-85E0-4888-987B-FF64D2E031BF_zpscm3uw4gm.jpg


2E977A05-C148-4DE3-B218-5582B91610B3_zpseccjvsvq.jpg


17F2AF6A-F2C4-4924-86BB-8C2B8062748A_zpsutrgeoeo.jpg


while I'm here, has any one run a 29 spline TCS output on the street? durable? probably a good question for Lavon If your out there.
 
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IE could be Intelligent Engineering or the infamous "Opie".

That sprag takes on heavy load in 1st-3rd gear if you're powering through the overdrive/direct clutch pack (The one applied with the big spring). It takes on massive load on the overdrive shift if the bearing spacer is too thick and fully disengages the OD/Direct pack long before the overdrive brake pack engages leaving full power load to be carried by the sprag. Be careful, if the overdrive bearing spacer/shim is too thin, you'll cause bind-up and burn the overdrive brake clutches because they will try to apply before the od/direct pack is disengaged.

Most builders prefer to 100% eliminate bindup and let the sprag take on the brunt of the load on the 3-4 shift. This makes it even more critical to get an output with a factory level of hardness at that output shaft race area.
 
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