Ahale's 94 Build thread

ahale2772 said:
So that means the regulated pressure is all that controls the opening?
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Yes, I believe so.

ahale2772 said:
What I do not get, is say I'm at 60psi boost, 70 psi drive. If i feed the bottom 60psi. And the top 50psi thats basically like adding a 10 psi spring under the diaphragm to help it overcome the 7psi spring. Dosnt that just mean that the gate is going to open really early? I work with hydraulics all day and for some reason I cant wrap my head around this one
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The spring is just there to help with the differential between the boost pressure and drive pressure I believe. You may need a slightly stiffer spring also.

I'm not 100% sure it works like this, but I'm 80% sure.

EDIT: But actually maybe I have it backwards..... regulated on bottom, full on top....hmmmm now you got me thinking.

Full on top plus spring pressure to conteract the drive pressure, then add a little regulated on bottom when you want it to start to open. Yeah I think that makes more since
 
Went and did a few test hits with my new diff , forgot to take pics last week lol.. these are a bit faded but there still Quite visible for being like 2weeks old
 

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It all makes sense until you account for pressure under the valve.

I think full bottom, reg on top is ideal
 
I guess I'm confused because if you had the gate on a bench, and had a 55psi on the top, and 60 on the bottom, with a 7lb spring, it would only take 2 psi on the gate to crack it.

But idk, I've looked everywhere and most places say to do it that way, I'll give it a go.

Thanks for the help btw
 
Doesn't quite make sense to me either unless the bottom port is not necessarily under the valve and vice versa.


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Understood, but wont 50psi of drive pressure help also? It must be the differential area of the diaphragm and the valve face that keeps the gate closed. Thats the only thing I don't understand
 
^That's exactly it.

- drive pressure on valve face
- spring force on valve (countering drive pressure)
- regulated boost to top port of actuator (to fine-tune the counter-force with spring)
- full boost to bottom port of actuator (to assist drive pressure, I guess also to dampen the exhaust pulses?)

From what I've experienced, an open bottom port (with filter/muffler) and regulated boost to top port controls boost on my setup.
 
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Hurley said:
^That's exactly it.

- drive pressure on valve face
- spring force on valve (countering drive pressure)
- regulated boost to top port of actuator (to fine-tune the counter-force with spring)
- full boost to bottom port of actuator (to assist drive pressure, I guess also to dampen the exhaust pulses?)

From what I've experienced, an open bottom port (with filter/muffler) and regulated boost to top port controls boost on my setup.
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You are right, with a jgs piston waste gate you can have pressure in the top only. And it's the way it works best for me.
 
Hurley said:
^That's exactly it.

- drive pressure on valve face
- spring force on valve (countering drive pressure)
- regulated boost to top port of actuator (to fine-tune the counter-force with spring)
- full boost to bottom port of actuator (to assist drive pressure, I guess also to dampen the exhaust pulses?)

From what I've experienced, an open bottom port (with filter/muffler) and regulated boost to top port controls boost on my setup.
Click to expand...

I'm guessing the damping action is a big part of it as well. Planning to get them going this weekend
 
Did me some Racin'

Started the night fuel only at 11.9, crept up to 11.7 at 107. Turbo would not push on the top end, but the 1/8 mile times were decent.

Rigged up a bottle of spray with a .060 jet on a momentary switch. That got me to this.

DC1E40DF-2E0A-4242-BBCE-B2F4699C9CB1_zpszmzrzq3k.jpg


Probably had 11.2 in it or an 11.1 if I kept working at it but I called it a night seeing that the truck was in one piece and I had a 2hr ride home.

The good news is the truck reacted well to more air, the bad news is that means I really need to get a better turbo setup on it.

It may help to try for a better tire setup than steel dually rims and BFG's also. Who knows.... The trans took a few 20psi first gear launch runs well.
 
NICE, Glad it did good, Looks like I will be taking possession of a HT60 to go with my HX35W, new HG, O-rings, Studs , Cant wait to post some slips for ya !!!

And to brag about my truck to my buddy who thinks he is gonna win, LOL!!!!
 
DieselMonster said:
NICE, Glad it did good, Looks like I will be taking possession of a HT60 to go with my HX35W, new HG, O-rings, Studs , Cant wait to post some slips for ya !!!

And to brag about my truck to my buddy who thinks he is gonna win, LOL!!!!
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thats what its all about.:ft:
 
[ame]http://i630.photobucket.com/albums/uu29/ahale2772/031AAC99-D8AF-42B7-B90A-1AF0C122B8A4_zpswesgcynp.mp4[/ame]

sort of ****ty quality, but gets the point across. The guy in the white dually was running 12.5's. I bet I could have nailed an 11.2 or 11.1 if I had just sprayed from the line. I was starting to spray just after the 2-3 shift
 
ahale2772 said:
sort of ****ty quality, but gets the point across. The guy in the white dually was running 12.5's. I bet I could have nailed an 11.2 or 11.1 if I had just sprayed from the line. I was starting to spray just after the 2-3 shift
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You sprayed once it shifted to 3rd???? You little biatchhhh. I thought you were going to come out of the hole on the bottle!!!!
 
Not when locking first too. I barely got the nerve to lock it in first. I was just happy not to break right off the line.

next time I'll go back with a bigger jet hooked to a hobbs @ 30psi.
 
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