Photo of a H2 Cam compared to 04.5 stocker

lmills said:
Nope, in fact I found it quite humorous when he used the compd websites mailing list to contact people to join another site he is pimping now. It shows what kind of class he has. I would feel different if he contacted me in a more professional way, but to use another persons site to do that speaks multitudes. If anyone would like to see a copy of it, I will cut and paste it for you. That alone will say enough.
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Didnt see nothing wrong with doing so privately, several of us did that for 2 other sites including CompD. Your point being?
 
Some on this thread have ill intentions and post negative nonsense like links to Chinese companies to try and make people think our parts are made in China. For the record: no F1 parts, pieces, or anything are made in China.

The standard Helix cams are new castings. And the Billet F1 Helix cams begin life from SAE 8620 steel, round bar stock.

The choice ends up being two things:

1) A new cast cam with a bolt-on gear system that not only holds the gear on, but also strengthens the front sections of the shaft that need the added support.

2) Or a used press-on regrind

If price point is considered, the Helix is now slightly less money than a used regrind.
 
MADDOG said:
Maybe he should "go diesel racing" and stay away from the "Competition"LOL
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Since this is all about performance cams, it's imperative to have a stout train as well

Finally, We've engineered Beehive Valve springs. The superior pac alloyed material goes through multi-stage shot pen process for durability and is designed to accommodate big lift/ boost cams alleviating bind
in those lower set height assemblies. Also, along with the matched titanium retainers and crocodile locks, the stress reduction yields additional increases from 100-200 rpm's. The new crocodile locks are great replacements for your trains 10 degree ones safeguarding against loosing locks and dropping valve during hard runs.
 
RacinDuallie said:
Didnt see nothing wrong with doing so privately, several of us did that for 2 other sites including CompD. Your point being?
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yeh, and how professional does it look to put yourself in that position, when you had just stopped being moderator? I mean come on Jeff, you are to be one of the lead people for the NHRDA group. Stand on the outside and look in and tell me that it didn't look like a shameless attack on Comp D to do something like that right after you had just left from your position??? If you feel that this is not a low blow from a business point, then so be it.. Nothing negative to be implied in this, just thought you should know how it looked from a consumers point of view.
 
for all that didnt get the warming personal invite, i guess we dont spend enough time and money and countless projects. kind of a kick sack to all the "non-professional" diesel heads. "go diesel racing" whoo rah! the only unbiased site littered with only "professionals" afliated with mainly 1 company. Catch-22 anyone?
 
WICKEDDIESELS said:
I don't think it is a law that we must tell, never the less it can be a selling point. With that said, if it isn't made in appealing part of the world, the customer still has the right to know. Looks to me like if someone was proud of the manufacturing and not concerned with tarnishing their products reputation, they would be proud to tell where it was made. Unfortunately for some, less appealing and non glamorous countries are all that remain.
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Correct. Country of origin part percentage is only required by law on automobiles, textiles, fur, and wool. Most products are still labeled, though. Per the Buy American Act, in order to be "Made in USA" a product must have at least 50% US part contenst.
 
Stay turned for the "Fuk Stik" series of cams. They will be made in China and will have a not so custom grind, copied from someone's cam from the left coast, sold through a middle man in Guam who is taughted as being the premier diesel man of the last post modern decade by a well regarded cobbler from Myanmar.
 
Muddin_dude06 said:
Not to hijack but I have a 12v cam that is .255" I and .290" E would it be worth switching in?

This is a good thread, its the first time I have ever seen Don post numbers on his cams!

Don, are your billet cams going to just be the same grinds as the Helix II and III or will there be more choices?
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Why is it a thread made to get facts about aftermarket camshafts has turned into a sausage swinging contest? Seriously I don't care who anyone is sponsored by or who sponsors who!

There are a few people who have done NOTHING to contribute to this thread, so why do they still continue to post?

I want to buy a camshaft sometime in the near future, my main desire for this camshaft is to increase spoolup and low-end because even with this S400 I can tow and daily drive but getting it spooling quicker would just make it that much better!

I have a cam with the specs that are in my quote can someone here who knows about cams tell me how to measure the other important specifications to it?

This has been a good thread, where is it the bolt-on gear Helix II's are being sold the price of a regrind? Last time I saw a new one for sale it was like $750+ the bolt-on upgrade.

And Don are your new billet cams going to be different grinds from the Helix II's and III's?

Fletcher I called one time to ask aout your cams but got an answering machine, could you PM me some info? Like the different types of grinds you can do, price, and whether the gear is press-on or bolt-on?
 
I've been looking at cams for a while now. Most people claim that they offer little actual power per dollar spent. Others say that to get any real gains you need to get a billet cam, bore and add bushings, and mill the c/bores in the pistons. price for this is around $6k-8k(including cam) if your motor is already together. Has there been any recently published before and after data on cam swaps. It would be nice to see dyno graphs, 1/4 mile times, or other comparitive data, rather than "It feels better".
 
RonA said:
Has there been any recently published before and after data on cam swaps. It would be nice to see dyno graphs, 1/4 mile times, or other comparitive data, rather than "It feels better".
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Yeah cause I bet if you swaped cams in a person truck while they were on vacation for the weekend they would never even know the difference. Just go with the hype thats expected. I sure did notice my top end power was down when I tried a regrind in my truck and the hp #s also showed to be lower than my stock cam. Needless to say it cam back out.
 
There have not been any "real choices" in a cast cam. The one grind fits all mentality is over with, the consumer demands more. Sure with a billet you can put anything anywhere, but it still has to "FIT" without running the valves into the pistons. With a billet and NO cam bearings, spring pressures and ramp rates will still need to remain conservative. Otherwise, it will eat into the block regardless of what anyone may lead you to believe. I assure you that the billet will face the same issues as a big cast cam, with spring pressures. Fast rate of lift does add additional loading to the cam journals.

We walk a fine line of balance in material compatability vs rate of lift vs spring pressure. Working in the confines of the particular layout of these engines, only so much time is allowed for maximizing the cycles of the engine. Without additional valve clearance, a billet isn't going to offer much. When it is all said and done "HOPEFULLY" the cast cores we are using will allow for the best grinds for differing applications.
 
dzlfarmboy said:
Yeah cause I bet if you swaped cams in a person truck while they were on vacation for the weekend they would never even know the difference. Just go with the hype thats expected. I sure did notice my top end power was down when I tried a regrind in my truck and the hp #s also showed to be lower than my stock cam. Needless to say it cam back out.
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I have thought this myself. I started with a PDR cam. I took very good notes before install and created a "test track" to drive on and check spoolup, egts, and boost numbers. I compared after the cam swap and could see a difference, but it was slight. When I switched to the Helix 2 I did the same thing. I could see the differences, but they were slight also. I have heard the exact same response from other people regarding cams(several different ones). A small bump in performance, especially spooling up from zero boost, is worth the price of a cam swap(to me). You get used to it in an hour and it becomes the norm. Funny how a cam swap in my old '60 Corvette turned it into a different car for $100 and a saturdays labor. It would be nice to try a more substantial cam, but without evidence that it would be any better than what I have seen with the drop ins I have tried, money would probably be better spent elsewhere. I need to change cams to go to a 13mm pump, so I will. But the pump is going to be the power adder. The cam is just a drive shaft for the performance adder.
 
This thread could be stickied with all the crappy posts deleted. Good info never hurt anyone.
 
i'm glad i learned something from the beginning of this thread.

thanks don for sharing some info.
 
Mike D said:
Stay turned for the "Fuk Stik" series of cams. They will be made in China and will have a not so custom grind, copied from someone's cam from the left coast, sold through a middle man in Guam who is taughted as being the premier diesel man of the last post modern decade by a well regarded cobbler from Myanmar.
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Is that the upgrade for the Hamilton Big Stik cam :hehe::hehe::hehe:
 
We have designed the our cam cores with a larger core diameter as well as wider lobes. We also typically have more lift than the other drop in cams. That is why we chose the name bigstick. From now on we will go by the
@.050" duration and lift at the valve for a name. I initially thought you had to have a fancy name like sportsman, helix, maxspool, etc to sell a cam. From now on no fancy names, just real world specs and the best grinds on the market.



Zach Hamilton
 
Nooooooooo Zach dont do it you have to have a fancy name i mean come on even our cams that are out performing the competition with superior grinds have fancy names and the power to back it up!
 
What about you Don? How wide is the lobe on your cam? Do I have to buy one to find out?

Zach
 
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