Soundproofing a 2nd gen

I just bought products from Second Skin Audio.

You need a weighted mat to dampen vibration from the sheet metal panels, then a foam to absorb other noises (ex road noise).

Tobin
 
FYI bed liner really will do nothing for sound did the entire floor of 3rd gen and it really made no difference. Ended up with 6 boxes of dyno mat to get it sound proof. Ive been told by multipule hard cor audio builders they the best sound proof you can do is epoxy resin card bord layer covers by a fiberglass layer. Sort of impractical for most but allot cheaper than 200 pounds of Matt.
 
thats because its cheaper than almost anything else and works great!!
I cant tell you how much of a difference it makes in the car! it is truly amazing! it sounds so solid, no rattles. road noise is way down and the exhaust drone is much better as well.
if you have a large flat panel even 1 sqft makes a huge difference.
but 3 layers on firewall, 2 on floor and seat pans and 1 on ceiling is awesome.
 
24vriviera said:
thats because its cheaper than almost anything else and works great!!
I cant tell you how much of a difference it makes in the car! it is truly amazing! it sounds so solid, no rattles. road noise is way down and the exhaust drone is much better as well.
if you have a large flat panel even 1 sqft makes a huge difference.
but 3 layers on firewall, 2 on floor and seat pans and 1 on ceiling is awesome.
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So you put multiple layers on? I'm getting it in the next week so any tips are appreciated.
 
The more weight on the metal the better it is in certain areas. Like the firewall and floor pans. I put strips in the doors to dampen the metal instead of doing complete coverage there.
Make sure all the air is out of the beads before you squeeze it down. If you don't, you won't get it out

Unbroken has a thread on applying to inner doors to help midbass and stereo quality sound.
My speakers aren't in the doors do all i did was apply pieces in certain areas to dampen hollow metal sound.
 
24vriviera said:
The more weight on the metal the better it is in certain areas. Like the firewall and floor pans. I put strips in the doors to dampen the metal instead of doing complete coverage there.
Make sure all the air is out of the beads before you squeeze it down. If you don't, you won't get it out

Unbroken has a thread on applying to inner doors to help midbass and stereo quality sound.
My speakers aren't in the doors do all i did was apply pieces in certain areas to dampen hollow metal sound.
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I'm basically trying to refine the truck a little bit, and more than anything trying to quiet the engine down in the cab. I like hearing it, but I would like it quieter with windows up, then be able to roll down the windows when I really want to hear it. And cutting down on road noise when going down the highway would be awesome as well.

I was going to buy the 100 sq ft of Rattletrap. Do you think thats enough to do the entire cab if I double layer it in certain places or do I need to get more?

And thanks I'll check out Unbroken's thread. Audio quality was not a focus point of this project but I have quite a bit done audio wise so I would welcome some more mid-bass, its what I'm lacking right now.
 
I used 90 feet or so in my car, so i do believe that 100'should do just fine on the truck. As well as your doors. The fatmat website has some great product that should help you with everything you need to do for stereo etc.
If you do nothing but add sound deadener to cab, then put your carpet and insulating panels back in, you will be thoroughly impressed with the change. Especially when added to large flat area like the back of cab, roof, door skin, floor pans and firewall. It makes a bigger change there than in corners and whatnot.
 
How thick is this stuff? I would be concerned about the head liner not fitting after installing this of the roof.
 
24vriviera said:
80mil.... Thin enough everything fits after
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SOLD!!! I love my old 2nd gen but its been getting on my nerves lately. Especially since I finished my dads 3rd gen 12 valve. That thing is so dang quiet inside, it's awesome.
 
Well....there is actually a lot more to sound deadening than just putting the dampener on. Stay away from B-Quiet, they use an asphalt based adhesive which will dry and crack and lose it's adhesive value.

What you want is a butyl based deadener. Along the lines of Audio Technix, Murdermat, Second Skin, SDS, etc....

You want to put a layer on the inside of the outer panels, and on the inner panels. Seal as many "holes" in the inner sheetmetal as possible.

Once you are done that, you need to place a decoupling layer (foam) such as Ensolite, or any closed cell foam (not egg crate foam, that's open cell and holds water). What this does is separates the resonating panels from the sound blocker, MLV.

Once you have the deadener and the ccf on, you put a layer of 1 lb/sq ft MLV or Mass Loaded Vinyl. What this does is block sound. It is a very dense material. If it was practical, we would use lead for this purpose, but it isn't, so MLV is is used.

A combination of all 3 materials must be used for maximum effectiveness.

Do not use peel and seal no matter what website you read that they had great results. You will be sorely disappointed when your windows no longer roll up or down cause it is a pile of mess in your doors.
 
This sound deadening stuff and a FTE resonator are on my list.... Single stacks drone like a mofo.
 
Chemmins, i agree completely that there us way more to it. And that multiple layers would be ideal in any situation. But as of right now most can't afford it or aren't needing it to be that quiet. That or they don't want to put the work in. So just adding a good dampener to the steel areas will be a tremendous improvement over what they currently have in their rigs.
 
YOUNG GUNS15 said:
This sound deadening stuff and a FTE resonator are on my list.... Single stacks drone like a mofo.
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Thats what I hear most people say. But at least for my truck, my 5" single stack was the quietest exhaust setup I have ran. My 5" exiting factory location has more drone, it's weird.
 
EasternAggie said:
Thats what I hear most people say. But at least for my truck, my 5" single stack was the quietest exhaust setup I have ran. My 5" exiting factory location has more drone, it's weird.
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I have a 5" single and it's stupid.... Ha it doesn't help I have a single cab and a rear sliding window that doesn't like to stay shut.
 
I did my firewall (when I had the motor out) with 2 layers of roofing flashing I got from Lowes. It is a butyl tape with aluminum facing it comes in 25 foot x 6" rolls for about $18.00 each. I understand it is how dynamat came to be. I used 2 rolls and still had some left over to do the hood and some on the floor. It is as quiet or quieter than the 6.0l that was in it with the windows up. Might be worth the $ to try it out and see how it compares to dynamat and others.
 
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