Supercharger pulley

Reminds you of the good, old compound build days, huh, Mark? Except 'm actually making progress on this at a noticeable rate. :snoop:


Jon, I thought about that but I also thought about what impact that may have on the actual tensioning abilities of the tensioner. I would think that having it in the middle of the longest run of belting would let it do its job the best. If my thinking is correct, which it may not be, the closer it gets to either end of a run of belt the less pressure it will be able to apply effectively to the belt.

I do know that the closer I get it to that pulley the easier it will be to keep the belts from rubbing on each other, so it'll be quite the balancing act getting it to clear the radiator hose, clear the other run of belt, and still have enough tension to spin my huffer.

I think, in my typical fashion, I'll just blindly weld things together and just not tell anyone if it doesn't work. :lolly:
 
I quit watching that story a long, long time ago.
Your comments notwithstanding, that turned into a pointless thread, much like injector threads there get taken over by a certain few people.

The quality of info is much better here, anyway. :)

BTW, these 2 words should really never be used together: Blindly and Weld. :poke:

Mark.
 
I love my build thread, it'll never die! Unless 1stgen shuns me for posting so much over here now. :lolly:

I've never been much of a welder, the proof is in the fact that I use a grinder more than a chipping hammer in most of my excursions. They always turn out strong, but damn they're ugly.

Just like my women. :hump:
 
I'd also like to note that I drilled that fan hub for a third bolt down in the lower, right corner. The one that sits behind the pulleys would have run right into a headbolt hole so I pulled it and pitched it, but the lower one had plenty of meat to drill through and clearance for the bolt flange to sit on.

No pics, sorry. :doh:
 
Tacoclaw said:
Jon, I thought about that but I also thought about what impact that may have on the actual tensioning abilities of the tensioner. I would think that having it in the middle of the longest run of belting would let it do its job the best. If my thinking is correct, which it may not be, the closer it gets to either end of a run of belt the less pressure it will be able to apply effectively to the belt.

I do know that the closer I get it to that pulley the easier it will be to keep the belts from rubbing on each other, so it'll be quite the balancing act getting it to clear the radiator hose, clear the other run of belt, and still have enough tension to spin my huffer.
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IIRC, ford has a tensioner with 2 idlers built in. it sort-of twists the belt.
You have to be sure you have good room between or the belt will rub during use. You may be surprised how much that belt will stretch while running with a load!
I had a belt 1/2 as long stretch over an inch under throttle!
I would (and did) move the radiator hose out of the way for the best placement of the pulleys. The belt will saw through the rad hose real quick if they contact.
 
Hmmm, not much else I can do but put it together and see what happens at this point. I am going to prioritize keeping the radiator hose alive, if I've got to put idlers on both sides of it to keep the belt I will. If that gets me too close to the tensioner I'll throw a ribbed pulley inline before the tensioner has something to grab onto, even if it does sacrifice some engagement on my drive pulley.

Carl, I was actually just thinking of that very tensioner today. I know I've dealt with one before, I just don't know where. A 6.0 perhaps? I'll look them up after I post and see if I can get some dimensions on them,I had just kinda given up on them after seeing the viability of my factory tensioner.
 
Hmmm, that does look enticing. Same mounting footprint as the Dodge tensioner, only problem I see is that it'll pull some engagement from my blower pulley. I'll see if I can get one from CQ and see what I can do with it. They'll always take it back if I spray it with enough brake-kleen afterwards.

DAC-89257_OD_xl.jpg


7.3 PS, by the way. :doh:


6.0 doeshave one apparently, it's just not made for a belt passing through like this.
 
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Maybe you're right, I have trouble picturing my belt routing while trying to keep the rotation of the tensioners right in my head. I was typing Dayco part numbers into Summit all day at work trying to find some that tension the right way, only to find that I had the Dodge's backwards and it was all a huge waste of time. :doh:

I'll draw it out on a piece of paper and double check it, but I'm pretty sure mounting it just like that pic on the lower run of belt will be perfect.
 
Who's got his accessory drive back?

This guy. :snoop:

Used a piece of 1/4" plate welded to a 1" piece of angle. I bolted the angle to the block with two of the old holes the fan idler used to use, then ran 2morepieces of angle vertically up the back of the plate. I threw it in the mill and faced both sides to make sure it sat right against the block and holds the idler in alignment.

Picture284_zps9276aeef.jpg


Gonna burn another .050 off my spacer and take some meat off the bolt I've got holding it in there. It was rubbing on my blower belt pretty hard when I was test fitting the tensioner.

Picture285_zps597f56a4.jpg
 
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I don't know what thread size that bolt is on the new pulley, but if the head is in the way, one could use a Torx-headed (seatbelt anchor?) bolt, or an allen headed bolt to gain clearance.

I feel like I'm being teased along, here. :pop:

Mark.
 
I drilled and tapped the plate for 5/8-18. No room for a nut back there so I went for maximum thread engagement and will just smather it with red Loctite and hope for the best. Same for the one I'm going to use to direct the blower the belt.
I'll just chuck the bolt up and face it off some. Its job isn't so tough that it needs a full grade8 head holding it together.
 
map only shows HP consumed for 5 or 10psi @ given RPM.

The one to pay attn to is the discharge temp. ;)
 
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Not that I have any clue about what boost this thing will be making but it looks like the max I'll see out of it is is 150*.

I was reading about it today and saw where a guy had one with no bypass and it was superheating the air because it had nowhere to go during low-throttle/idle situations with the butterflies closed. I see a diesel being a lot gentler on it since there's no such restrictions in the airflow.

I'll get it running and see what boost I'm seeing where, then see what will need to be done about interstage cooling and whatnot. I just don't know how to calculate suspected restriction and whatnot in a ICE. Only way I know how to do it is turn the key and watch the gauge. :(
 
Just some pics tonight, boys, I'm ****ing beat. I'll answer any questions or thoughts when I become coherent tomorrow morning.

78D98083-DB2D-4CE0-A174-EDD280B9ED6F-1168-000001633B89EADC_zpsc314467c.jpg


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Tacoclaw said:
...I'll answer any questions or thoughts when I become coherent tomorrow morning.
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Coherent?
I am actually starting to get the hang of your way of doing things. :)

Nice progress, sure makes a lot more sense put (more or less) together, I'll say that much.

Mark.
 
Thanks, fellas.

I'm having some interference problems with the lower run of belt and the accessory idler, I think I'm coung to have to notch my bracket and move my blower tensioner as fatuous I can without hitting the upper belt.

That means I'll have to box that bracket in but I've been looking for a reason to go through the trouble anyways.
 
Also, throughout some more reading I've done I've learned that if your mounting surface isn't flat it's possible to twist the blower case and cause the rotors to rub. I tweaked mine with a straight edge, press, and BFH but I'm going to do it all again when it's finish-welded. I was only worried about sealing surface leaks, bending the case hasn't occurred to me.
 
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