Truckers, lets see your rigs!

Probably because the same company’s that make chassis dyno’s also make engine dyno’s and might have actually tested this in real life you mouth breather. Next time your around a truck without an engine jack the back up and turn the input shaft with your hands and tell me it doesn’t take any power to turn the entire driveline.
No they havent, but we will in future.

In New Zealand they use 10 %

We have greatest american Mustang dyno that gave my Volvo 85 hp driveline loss, at 860 whp.
 
Guess I could be wrong, but isn't hp calculated from the torque measurement with a dyno? Thus, if the torque is off, the hp will be off.

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Yes, money. For B and C Volvo is not allowed because it is too big.
They have an exemption to allow one guy to run an automatic transmission approved by all the racers, I can guarantee they would let you run your POS up there assuming you buy a diaper to catch the parts. Although you better bring more than your earth shattering 800hp if you want to make it past the first round.



I mean come on Leiffi, they are your European brothers. You know they would welcome your green cabover junk up there. Probably afraid they couldn't get you back out of the country since your economy collapsed back home.


And it doesn't take a lot of money to compete in the A class, 4th place was a truck drug out of a fence row, painted, fitted with a cheap S60 detroit and a junkyard transmission. With euro injectors, turbo(s) and your amazing tuning and you could easily win with a D13.
 
He's going to need one of these for serious Volvo powa!
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I’m getting conflicting info. In hopes that Cody May show up im gonna post here.

14.6L What HP with a 78/1.32 support without pushing to the edge?


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I’m getting conflicting info. In hopes that Cody May show up im gonna post here.

14.6L What HP with a 78/1.32 support without pushing to the edge?


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700ish working is max. Much more fuel and that small housing spins it too fast.

That’s 150 euro HP.
 
I’ve always thought that 650 up to 700 was the limit with good tuning.

I’ve been hearing a couple people lately claim they don’t advise using the 1:32 on anything but factory and I don’t really agree.
My trucks lucky to see 800 with one so I feel it has more left in it.


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I’ve always thought that 650 up to 700 was the limit with good tuning.

I’ve been hearing a couple people lately claim they don’t advise using the 1:32 on anything but factory and I don’t really agree.
My trucks lucky to see 800 with one so I feel it has more left in it.


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Plenty of other options it’s just the 14969880000 is the cheapest direct bolt on upgrade over the stock 75mm Garrett. The rest require some piping and oil line changes.
 
Well we already have the 78/1.32 but for a truck with factory injectors, cam, and will eventually be tuned, I don’t think we “have” to go to the 1.45.


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Well we already have the 78/1.32 but for a truck with factory injectors, cam, and will eventually be tuned, I don’t think we “have” to go to the 1.45.


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If it was a 70pin the tune you choose could put the wheel in orbit. But with a 40pin it wouldn’t even come close to overdriving it.
 
This place is still boring... arguing all the same chit we’ve been arguing for years.

And the Finland idiots still here unfortunately.


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Good to see you back, BRE.

What you driving now? Other than the T600, the rigs I’ve seen you post pictures of are typically pretty sharp.
 
You air brake peoples....question. Two needles on the dash. One is obviously reservoir pressure (red needle) since it stops at 125 psi when the compressor unloads. I’ve verified it by an external gauge. It is fairly accurate.

What is the white needle normally easing? And how the hell can it be almost 150 psi when it unloads at 125? Gauge shot? What’s the peanut gallery say?

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External gauge uses to validate dash gauge. Connected to reservoir. Shown just after unloading the head.

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Primary and secondary air. Secondary is for steer axles and the handle brake.

At least that's how it was in the old truck I used hostling
 
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