01CumminsSport
CapeCodDieselPerformance
- Joined
- Aug 8, 2008
- Messages
- 559
i dont see it being to much harder than a p-pump at 22+ deg, they seem to start fine and with the computer adjusting stuff to make it start i think it would fire right up
So what is the deal on the lines? They have to bend right? But you dont want them to bend.... Im confused. Cause Sean posted earlier but how to do it but I wanna say he forgot bout the key. He just said pop off the gear and rotate one tooth....
Guess I just need to pull it off and give it a try already.
all you have to do it pull the timing cover and pop the gear off the pump shaft and rptate the pump and gear one tooth clockwise and reinstall and go out and have fun and report back with your findings
Well I found out I need a tool to pull crossover tubes, injectors, and such. Dont have them yet, plannin on meeting the snap-on guy next week. Im gonna do it once I go back to school, have more time in the evenings and not so tired form work.... Hell, I couldnt figure out why I couldnt bleed my lines after I put my pump in. Turns out it all works better if they are hooked up to the pump....... I figured I better stop there before I mess somethin up.
Exactly. We were only talking about flexible lines if there was a mechanism that actually rotated the pump, to change timing once going.
Its really straight forward otherwise. A 2 piece cover would be awesome. If you build one, make 2, and give me a shout. As far as hard starting. With 5* I only have trouble starting when its below freezing. And honestly, I wouldn't call it trouble, it just has to crack once or twice, instead of being just a blip of the key.
Sean
Sean, thank you for the info man. REALLY!!! Somethin tells me now that Sunday im not gonna be that busy, might get on it.
And about that two piece cover.... Would be easy to just cut out a section right where the gear is so you have enough room to work, just get some self tapping sheet metal screws not too long, get a piece of light guage metal, cut out what you want, and cut the new piece to fit. Drill you some pilot holes in both pieces (would be a good idea to tack weld the two pieces together to have holes that line up) put some rtv between the two surfaces and close it up.
Guess I think its easy cause I have grown up with a dad thats been in the sheet metal business for 25 years and I work in a machine shop
Yee gawds no on that idea for a cover :bang
If you work in a machine shop cut a piece of billet aluminum at least 1/8 thick and machine out a backing plate you can bond to the inside with matching threaded holes for the attach bolts.
just getting this staight.. bump the tooth one notch.. and it will give you 10* of timming.. so if i bump it a tooth and put my quad on 8 and that is as high as i go with it any ways.. it will be all good.. or will i need to run a lower timming on my quad?
i am thinking i will be doing mine the first of the yr..
and
has any body dynoed with a timming bump of one tooth.. what was the gain..
on stock?
and with quad or smarty or edge?
Yea but how much room is back there? You want a certain thickness to get a good grasp with a bolt. And I dont think aluminum is a good idea, too easy to strip out. Just some mild steel like 1018, 1045, just plane ol carbon.
i didnt do back to back dyno runs but it pulls harder up top with the big sticks and charger i have