Why won't my truck dyno good?

DOCTOR DIESEL said:
first thing you should run the tst on 9 , and the smarty on 9. Ive already done all the homework with running the stacked chips. With both boxes on 9 you will be running max power. If you were running edge with smarty you will actually lose power on dyno no matter what level you are on. Also the dynos everyone runs these diesels on will not load the motor so this may also be a problem with you numbers.
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The multiple runs i've done with my truck made MAX power with the level 6 TST/EZ and also with the Smarty/TST and the different Smarty levels were all within about 6hp.
 
Tyler, look at it this way, you can break records with that truck. Just keep dyno'n and in theory your numbers will fall below stock horsepower. You'd be the only guy with a truck that dyno's less than stock with 200 hp worth of fuel...:hehe: Nah, I hope you get it figured out man. You've eliminated the vp by replacing it, got your injectors fixed. Why don't you take the stack off and just run with your injectors and your smarty and see what numbers you make? Replace your map, with as many miles as your truck has it can't hurt.
 
I think it is definately between the map/iat sensors. I would definately get a map put in it if it were my truck. I really feel that it is your problem. Those Dragon 11's are awesome sticks.
 
Smarty and injectors only it did 353hp. TST was turned off. I guess a new map can't hurt anything except my pocket book.
 
You should have said something at the dyno we could have pulled mine off and given it a try. It New LOL
 
I wish I would have thought of it. LOL

Just went and ran the truck after cleaning the IAT and it still feels just as strong. Scratched the tires going into 2nd just like usual so nothing new there. Now granted this was smarty and injectors only.
 
Blue, I just witnessed the same problem you are having, turns out it was the TST, guy replaced his right on the dyno and picked up 60 hp, so in short the box was bad, but the boost and fueling light still came on.
 
Interesting. I might just have to send mine off and have it inspected. The wire tap is soldered on to the right wire so that I know is not the problem.
 
jktcummins said:
Its a joke. Everyone and their dogs told me that there is no way it could be map sensor problems. But when i finally started replacing just about everything my truck ran 10 times better when i replaced the map. so i have been joking will all the people that told me it wasnt that saying i must have gotten a 100hp map sensor since they didnt think there was anything wrong with my old one.
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just out of curiosity, how much does a new MAP sensor cost?
 
BgBlDodge said:
Interesting. I might just have to send mine off and have it inspected. The wire tap is soldered on to the right wire so that I know is not the problem.
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Have you driven down the highway, pulling like 20psi boost partial throttle while accelerating, and flip the box on...does it hit hard? Feel like fast and the furious when they hit the NOS buttons LOL

I know I have done it twice when playing with ricers, and realized my box was off so I switch it on while I am already in the boost...and there is a NOTICABLE difference as it starts pulling much harder
 
getblown5.9 said:
Have you driven down the highway, pulling like 20psi boost partial throttle while accelerating, and flip the box on...does it hit hard? Feel like fast and the furious when they hit the NOS buttons LOL

I know I have done it twice when playing with ricers, and realized my box was off so I switch it on while I am already in the boost...and there is a NOTICABLE difference as it starts pulling much harder
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Oh yeah. Big difference flipping the box on. I never turn my box on so I can tell a major difference when I do.

The VP on this truck is 6 months old so the SOB better not be going out yet considering that my factory one was still kicking after 130k. Is there only one page of replies on that link?
 
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Well thank you dodge for once again screwing the customer. Just called for a price on a new MAP sensor and the old part number has been superceeded by a new part. The new MAP sensor has a pig tail already attached to it and you have to buy a harness along with the new sensor to connect to the factory plug. MAP sensor cost-$201 Harness cost-$51.
 
Hang on do not buy one from the dang dodge house. i will get the number from mine. I went to the Cummins house and it was half what it was from the dodge house.

Its actually just the older style sensor. With a pig tail to go from the old style conection to the style of the horness.

It may just be a new style sensor with an adapter to the harness of the truck.
 
That sounds like the place to go. I think i paid $100 for the sensor maybe $85 and $19 for the harness. From my cummins shop
 
Thanks a ton Timmy. I don't know how this can help but I'm willing to try anything and everything.
 
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