Scheid 5k gsk who's running them?

Ya i think your right, all i ever get to talk with is salesmen, like you said 3 guys= 3 stories. I'll call them later and ask for a wrench turner in the shop.
 
I put a set of 5k Scheid springs in TeddyBear's old pump and that thing idled smooth as butter, and seemed to pull real hard all the way up. I dont think he ever had it to 5k, but I know free revving there was all kinds of pedal left at 4500rpm. I guess it is different on every truck, but I know they were great in his 180 pump.

Honestly stock600, I think you need to run a lock up converter/tranny. A diesel needs lockup so that it can apply the torque you are making and it will help hold the RPM's down too so that you dont need as many. I really think a lockup converter would help your times and your RPM situation.

Eric
 
It's my understanding that most people race with their converters locked even between shifts. Is this correct or incorrect? I assume you start unlocked in first then locking it in second???
 
Maybe so Eric......
I talked with thier pump guy, he said these should work fine, if not the only other thing he said they could do is set the pump up on thier stand and see for thier self? Just sounded like more money to me.
 
That sounds like b.s. to me. I hope they work out for you though man good luck!
 
Thanks Nick me too. Were traveling to a track thats a few hours away, it would suck to go that far and have them not proform well.
On your earlier comment, im running a 3 speed tranny with a non lock up style convertor, but i believe its still very efficant on the top end, its not a off the shelf unit, it a hand built billet unit with a CNC stator, it mph's well also showing me that its doing a fine job, just need more rpm.
 
Well thier in, i did take the extra time and mic'ed everything from the old verses the new 5k kit. I expected to see some diff. in the bottom seat..nope all the same. The only diff. i seen was the smallest spring, it was shorter and a little heavier wire, .078 rather than .074, all else the same, even had to reuse the idle spring from the first kit. I went back and forth many times on the setup and ended finally on 1 soft and 3 hard clicks wich was about .155/.165" S.P. I suppose'ed the diff. in the SP measurment was due to not using any shims this time on the 2nd to the largest spring? Cause i noticed the nut was down a little from flush when it came to the first soft click, where as the "shimmed" first 5k kit hit right at flush. OH and i hope i dont have to adj. it at the track, the plug nut is trash!, the 7/8 socket sliped once and it was all over, just nearly couldnt get it off, ended up driving a 13/16 12pt over it to get it removed. I will have to get with Cummins to get another one next week. A 7/8 6pt is what ive always used but the fit is not perfect, its prob. like a 22 or 23mm 6 pt, does anyone know, my metric kit only went to 21mm. Also it dont bust off like it did, it has to turn over a few revolutions first, or if you touch the pedal at all it fires super quick, that kind of tells me it might end up wanting one more hard click on each side, anyone agree or disagree? Later
Thanks. Ryan
 
NickTF said:
It's my understanding that most people race with their converters locked even between shifts. Is this correct or incorrect? I assume you start unlocked in first then locking it in second???
Click to expand...

Correct. Atleast thats how I do it anyways. I know Goerend sets his valve bodies up to allow lockup in 2nd gear, or if you want, he can make it to where it can lock up in 1st. When I race I always put the selector in 2nd at the line. Build desired boost and take off. It runs up through 1st gear unlocked then shifts to 2nd. As soon as it hits 2nd gear I lock the converter and let it run up through 2nd, then shift the selector to 3rd (D), then disengage the O/D off button. Some advise against locked shifts, but I think its the only way to go if youre trying for the quickest times. Youre definitely gonna want some billet parts though if you plan on doing locked shifts.
 
I also lock up in second. I have an HTS vb and I talked with dusty about this before I made the change. I even asked him about locking up in 1st and he said he can do it but really doesn't see a big difference. He locks up in 2nd on his 3rd gen drag truck. Our truck runs close to the same times with it unlocked but locking up keeps our tranny temps down. We will have a better idea on how things are going after we go back to the track tomorrow.

Back to the gov discussion.
 
I agree 100% on the lock up for you guys that have that option with the new comp. controled valve bodies and clutch style convertors, Joshes method sounds about right to me. I run a fluid coupling style convertor like 90% of all other type of drag racers, the diff. here is the insain amount of torq. applied. Really i think its just mostly diesels that run a lock up or clutch type conv. due to low end efficency, towing and such. No dought thats prob. the best way to go esp. if one has a late modle style tranny, but im still running a gasser theory style tranny setup with a larger dia. convertor for more effic. in fluid coupling. Might would do better with something else but im working with what ive got. Ive got a good race tonght, im just hoping the best for the new gov. springs.....and thanks for the info. on the nut size Smokem. Later guys.
 
If you are in a bind, you can weld a nut onto the 22mm pump nut to get it off. I had a boy that wanted me to do a GSK for him, and his was stripped out, so I had to weld a nut to it. Its kind of a pain but it will work.

Oh, and also, if you just need to adjust the clicks. You can go in through the top of the pump(down through where the plate is), and you can just take a long flathead screwdriver and adjust your clicks from there. Cant see or get to it hardly as good, but it will work with no problem if you need it to.

Eric
 
I've done governor spring swaps in the top and through the 7/8" nut, either can be done. Good luck.
 
Thank You.

Cummins Driver said:
If you are in a bind, you can weld a nut onto the 22mm pump nut to get it off. I had a boy that wanted me to do a GSK for him, and his was stripped out, so I had to weld a nut to it. Its kind of a pain but it will work.

Oh, and also, if you just need to adjust the clicks. You can go in through the top of the pump(down through where the plate is), and you can just take a long flathead screwdriver and adjust your clicks from there. Cant see or get to it hardly as good, but it will work with no problem if you need it to.

Eric
Click to expand...

Wow, never heard or thought of that, great info Eric, thanks! I will be picking me up a plug from cummins this thurs. but i may make me up a long screwdriver for what sounds like quicker adjustments at the track, thanks again. Ryan
 
Well the other Scheid comp. springs def. allowed me to turn her tighter, she went 4400 rather than the 3600 before, this allowed for 118mph instead of 102. Not sure thay didnt fuel a tad softer on the bottom though, the 60 and 330' showed a loss. Pyro being pegged at 2k+ at the 1/8 made me lift for a few hundred feet untill the temps were back around 1000*, i jumped back in it to cross the 1/4 traps at a 10.87, showing me that gearing and high temps were keeping me from at least low 10's..... oh well it just happened to be a 1/4 mile track, all the others i play at are just 1/8, and it will stayed geared and tuned for just that. Im not saying that i wouldnt like to try the CDS springs because i sure would, just to see the diff, but i will say that Scheid came through and sent me a kit that turned more rpm that i had been able to before, i won my all my races, placed a diesel record at another track, got paid, etc.... good weekend for sure. I'll take 4400 over 3600 any day, but cant say i wouldnt like to have the 5k available if i wanted it.
 
5k springs

Forget about it, im tired of wondering= CDS kit is on the way. Thanks Mark.
We'll see what this 2 spring per side things all about..:poke:
Ryan
 
Ha ha, now that's the spirit! When in doubt spend the money lol:p. Glad to hear she's running better, now tell us how you like those CDS springs!
 
Will do Nick.
I was pretty excited to get in the 10's with min. effort on the 2nd half of the track. The 118mph shows also it being gear bound at 4400, and really this is all the rpm i need for short track racing and a stock camshaft, im just hoping the CDS will fuel better on the bottom and allow more top end charge for one day when i can put it to better use. A true 5k rpm would allow me 133mph for a good 1/4 mile charge with the current gear, but the cam wouldnt allow it, i believe now any rpm over prob. 3500 is just giving me more wheel speed and not really producing more power, anyone agree? I'll do a cam swap one day, but no time soon. For the 1/8th and proper gearing i'll get by with what air the stocker will allow me for now, just hoping the CDS will have a better bottom end fuel curve. Anyone running the CDS have a comment on this...
Thanks. Ryan
 
I will agree, 3500rpm is usually about the farthest into the band with a stock motor that you will make power. You might do ok to 4k, but that really isnt where the meat of your power band is. Honestly though, I dont think a mild cam will make a huge difference up there either. I feel like a lot of head work, with fly cut pistons, and a really agressive cam is probably what is needed to really make one scream on the top end, but it sounds to me like you are doing pretty good how it sits for just having a 66mm turbo and a few other simple things. Is that thing street legal? If it is, I bet that would be a fun ride on the road:rockwoot:

Eric
 
Thanks Eric, no its not street legal at all, and never will see the streets again. It would be a sleeper late at night at some street races untill.....the throtle was stabbed and blacked out the block. No street racing for me any more ive been doing my racing on the tracks for the last 15 years or so. Thanks for the comment, im very happy for the numbers im putting down for what i have. Im a tinker'er though and love to try new things and tune up every week or so, im hoping to get my early numbers back with the CDS springs.
 
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